A couple last questions... and then we'll have this figured out.

1) Is this a TEMPORARY installation or will you be keeping this here for all time??

2) What kind of shower are you putting here? One-piece, self-standing, multi.-piece, or custom?

3) How tall is the space from floor to ceiling?


Thanks...

I want to keep this here for all time

1- (1 PC )shower stall 30''x32''x74''
2- 91'' from floor to celling

Ozzie... I have never heard of a 24" wide shower?? Minimum allowed anywhere is a 30"x30" shower?? You sure it's not a 32" x 32"?

I'll write up my answer on this in the early AM.. OK.. Off to work right now... ;)

MARK

sorry man its 30x32x74

Are you installing this shower in a basement on concrete floor, or is there access to drainage pipe from below? If access to drainage from below, I would start looking at tieing into a drain from below and run a vent up and tie into washer vent as Mark already explained. I just worry about having a washing machine, kitchen sink, and shower all draining into the same two inch pipe. And it is possible that the floor drain is on this same pipe also. If washing machine happened to be draining at the same time someone was doing dishes, and by some chance someone was also showering, it very well could back up through the floor drain. But I've seen 1 1/2 lines take all this and more, so its hard to say. If job is not being inspected, just do the best you can(and mark is helping you do that.) Im sure everything will work out just fine. But please do let me know about access to pipes underneith floor. Or would you have to (I hate to say it) have to break up concrete? If so, just go with the plan you have laid out right now.

Yes it is in basement on concrete and would please explain to me what you mean if there access to drainage pipe from below (all what I have shows in the pictures in second page )

Thank you

Hi Ozzie...

Mygirlsdad was thinking it would be best to chop out the cement and see if you can connect into a larger drain line than the 2" pipe you have there above ground....

As you know, you can:

1) chop up the floor and connect into the drain pipe underground (if you are lucky pipe is 3")... you would pipe in a ptrap and run a vent over to the washing machine vent. This would be best result for you and would not require a raised floor.

2) install a male adapter (threaded adapter) into the cleanout that is present and add a vent and ptrap, build the base and install the shower.

3) you may also be able to use the FLOOR DRAIN itself as the shower drain, but you would need to run a vent underground over to the washing machine vent to make this work, so it really is the same as #1

#1 is legal by all plumbing codes... #2 is illegal as it is against code to install any fixture into the end of a cleanout. #3 is about the same as #1...

You tell me which one you choose and I will draw it up for you...no more questions!

MARK

I will go with #2
Can I install adapter has cleanout this way the cleanout we used is replaced with another one?
And about #3 the is the vent has to be underground ?

Mark

This room where I am thinking to put the shower base is the lundry room and I am planining to take down the dry wall wher I marked in pic . What is behyned this wall is small bathroom that's why I want to put the shower in lundry room but you inter to the shower from the bathroom this way my bathroom will be 3 PC even if its very small
So this wall is between the bath and the lundryroom and as you see I have lots room in landry room

Thanks

YUP... you can install a cleanout in line... should help. Check out my drawing...

Connect the 1.5" shower vent at about 48" off the finish floor into the washing machine vent.

Connect 2" pipe to pipe using a 2" male a dapater and then add a 2" dandy cleanout after that and use a 2"x1.5" sanitary tee fitting to pick up the vent...end the run into a 2" ptrap (without cleanout on it) for the shower.

I want to check one other thing for you on the floor drain. I'm wondering if that can be used as the shower drain.. I need to double check a coupe things first so please pop back later tonight and check to see if I posted on this.. OK?

Otherwise, let me know if you have questions on my drawing...

MARK

Attached Images

 

Thank you so much mark

One more question about platform base for the shower. What the best way to build it so will be easy to install p trap or do any service under it or some kind of access in case for future
Thanks

I would build it from 2"x8" pressure treated wood and 3/4" plywood. You should leave enough room between the two center joists to accommodate the ptrap without having to cut the joists. I would also drill through the joists... not notch them... up to you.

You should not need access to the ptrap in the future if this gets installed right... if you do, then you could cut a notch out the back side of the box then... ;)

Keep me posted as you go along.

Thanks...

MARK

So I have to install the p trap before I secure the base and then start building the frame

Yes... you will determine the proper rough in for the ptrap, then install the trap in place, glue and screw the plywood down (have a six inch hole in plywood for strainer body to set down in/on/through) the plywood and then install the shower base/stariner, etc... to finish.

If you have a cheaper shower unit you may be interested in setting the shower base in a structolite gypsum substrate... makes for a very firm base... see picture. This can usually be found at a local home depot.

You should install a 6 mil. (or so) plastic between the plywood and the shower if you plan on setting the structolite in place... this way moisture won't be wicked away from the structolite.

I can't emphasize enough to dry fit everything up here to start when it comes to setting the base/unit...

What type of shower strainer does your shower have? A Socket weld-type (top pic.), a caulkless type (pic. #2,3 combined) or an integral strainer such as in the last picture..?

Let me know...

MARK

Attached Images

     

OK there is 5 pic

Hi Ozzie:

Build the platform (level) and pipe it all up so the ptrap is centered where it needs to be. The ptrap must be level front to back and side to side.

Leave the pipe riser coming out of the ptrap longer than needed and dry fit so you can pull it out later.

Place the plywood (with 6 inch circle cut out for strainer) on the platform and glue/nail/screw it in place.

Remove the dry fit pipe at ptrap and then DRY FIT the one-piece unit (put in place and plumb/level unit, but don't install) with the shower strainer shower strainer dry fit to the unit as well. to the unit as well.

Then measure the length of pipe needed from the ptrap to the strainer socket fit. Also measure the thickness of structolite needed from plywood floor to the base of the shower.

Remove the unit, cut the pipe and prime/cement the pipe onto the bottom 1/2 of the strainer and then install that into the ptrap.

Then place plastic sheathing if using structolite, mix structolite and place on plywood to thickness previously measured plus an inch.

Install the unit, plumb it, set into the structolite and then use a clear silicone bead along the strainer top and install the strainer into the bottom 1/2 of the strainer assembly. The black rubber gasket belongs under the shower unit on the bottom 1/2 of the strainer... the cardboard gasket can be discarded in this case.

Then screw the unit in place with exterior grade screws and you should be all set with the shower unit installation.

Pop back with questions as need be... ;)

MARK

Hi Mark

I did not find structolite gypsum substrate
In all home hard ware supply is there any other kind

Thak you