OK... so I am still working on installing my toilet. I work at a snail pace.

I have an elongated commercial toilet being used in residential setting. It does not have a tank, but instead a column with a handle flush like you see at the mall washroom.

At the top of this valve column there are two functional items. The handle for toilet flushing, and a screw to stop the water (does it have an alternate function?). Unfortunately, when I open this screw the water fills in the bowl which is good.. but when the bowl is full and the valve assembly is then fully pressurized there is a water leak around this screw! How do I fix this? The water turn off screw is leaking.. that comes pre-assembled by the manufacturer. Its not like I can tighten it up or something. Well, I guess technically I COULD tighten it up, but then the water would be shut off to the toilet (it does not leak when fully closed).

Its brand new too...

Would a picture help?

Thanks for the advice :)

Knucklez

If you take a look here:

http://www.totopros.com/upload/totop...20TMW1HNCR.pdf

And here:

Flush toilet - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I think you will find a lot of useful information.

I saw a couple: 1) Use of 3/4 to 1" supply lines. 2) Flush the new installation without the regulating valve in place.

The stop does do some regulating, but my guess it should not cause water to fill the bowl unless the flush valve is operated.

And even here:

http://www.sloanvalve.com/installati...816195Rev3.pdf

If you look at the above, you have the contrl stop and the control stop bonnet. The bonnet acts as a packing nut. Never having done this, I'd first try to tighten the bonnet. Then, I'd try to take the stop apart and clean.

Thanks for the links. I learned that the thing is called a "stop valve" and its fine tuning adjustment will set the flow rate and bowl fill level. Here is my problem, from the link I read

"To set the
flushometer valve for proper operation, open the
stop valve completely by turning the adjustment
screw and flush the Flushometer valve several
times. Gradually adjust the stop valve down, using
the adjustment screw, so that the rate of water
flow into the fixture is not excessive, yet is
sufficient to adequately evacuate the waste"

Unfortunately, this is what I can NOT do, because if I open the stop valve all the way it leaks! It is leaking from around the screw that the screw-driver is slowly opening. It is therefore leaking from INSIDE the stop-valve.

Now it comes with a stop valve cover which is screwed in. so technically, I could crank the cover on tight so no water escapes... but this just doesn't seem right. When someone goes to maintenance the toilet, it might spray water all over when they go to get access to the stop valve screw.

It is brand new... what to do?

You need to replace that stop valve. Shut water off at main shutoff (or cold water shutoff to bathroom) and flush the handle to release pressure, and just back that stop valve out (counterclockwise) and take to nearest plumbing supply house. Be careful and hold against yourself (with rag/pliers on valve) when loosening stop... do not want to break off pipe in wall.

You may also want to pick up a diaghram (cheap part and may/may not need in future) as that may give you issue after you install the stop valve. If need to install diaghram.. let us know and we can talk you through that too (water would not shut off to toilet if diaghram went bad).

The supply house will have replacement handy... and then just re-install. That should do it.

If this helped please RATE THIS ANSWER... thank you.

I think this answer has helped me. But I would like to clarify your advice.

Today, I put a bucket under the stop valve to catch the dripping water. Then I opened the stop valve all the way. The toilet bowl filled with water to about 1/2 full (probably too much, but this is just a test).

The water was pouring around the rim also, as if someone had tried to flush the toilet. Water is CONTINUOUSLY being swiriled around (just a trickle, not the full blast when someone flushes toilet). And I can hear the water going down the drain.

So I think, well, I never flushed the toilet but maybe it just needs to balance out before it can be in use. So I wait a while, and no change. Continuously trickliing out the rim, and a drainning. Water level stays pretty much the same - perhaps slowly over span of 10 minutes, water level went down 1 "

So.. no dice.

I then try the flush handle.. but absolutely NOTHING happens. No roaring flush.

I slowly close stop valve, and trickling water slowly stops. I try flush valve. Nothing happens.

I think I need to replace or fix this stop valve as you suggest. But there seems to be another problem, the water doesn't stop, and the flush action doesn't work.

Are they all related to same issue? A leaking stop valve? Fix this, and the rest gets solved magically on its own?

I bought the bowl and flush valve assembly from two different sources... is it possible I must buy american standard flush valve so the manufacturer matches bowl to valve?

I would think it is generic.. but you never know..

NOPE... american standard toilet accepts sloan flush valves for sure.

HEY Knucklez..I just noticed something...your pipe size is WAYYYY too small for that flush valve *frown* You better PM me at this point so we can talk.

Mp:
I mentioned that on my first post. 3/4" pipe minimum. 1" preferred.

That is his problem KISS.. for sure. I just saw the great sites you posted, clicked and liked what I saw... did not go back to read.. sorry. Once he posted pic... became real clear!

Hey Knucklez... seems me and kiss figured this out. YOU NEED a 1 inch pipe to use that flush valve... may be able to pull off with 3/4" pipe... but I have never tried that size. Further, what size is your water main coming into house?

Ohhh... never thought of that.

No this isn't going to work at all then. My entire house, including from the mains, is all 1/2".

bugger.. i didn't know there was a minimum supply size for these things. i guess that's why i had to use a lot of reducers to get it to fit the stop-valve :)

i just thought, heck, it's just a toilet why would it need massive 1" water supply?

But now that I think of it more, it is because when that water hits the bowl rim, it needs a LOT of pressure to get such a large volume to be very aggressive. Think of the toilet at the mall, it is a rocket BLAST of water.. yes, not for very long time, only 10 seconds or less probably.. but that instant hit would take a large water supply (i.e. a normal toilet tank being gravity fed) OR high volume + pressure i.e. 1" ID line. I have neither..

Does this sound right?

YUP... needs a lot of VOLUME... you got it... what a bummer. Let me and KISS know if we can help with anything as you go along. IF you are looking for really good toilet for residential use with 1/2" pipes, go with the pressure assisted jobbers... a little expensive (say 250 ish or so... but great flush!! Let me know if you need a name or two. Talk soon

Will do, you guys are great :)

If you know someone that wants to buy a commercial toilet... lol

They will take it back as long as you did not drop your *ss on it... ;) . Seriously, clean off the wax and put back in box. Just be sure you did not drop your *ss on it... ;) *yuck*.

Hey, like I said, check those pressure-assisted toilets out. Keep us posted, please.

OK, so I removed the commercial toilet and it is resting peacefully in the basement..

I went back to the standard type and dry fit, but it does not fit because the drain is 12" on center from wall, but this is not enough room for this standard HD toilet.

so i go back to HD and look at their 10" on center toilets, but they all start at $800. :eek: I'd rather have an out house!

So I look around and find an all in one toilet, i.e. with the tank molded into the base unit. And the lid does NOT overhang the tank, but rather sits on the inside.. so this is a small package toilet. I take it out of the box and it is 12" on center to the back of the lid..

this is going to be close...

when i get home i see i need a smidge more room.. so i decide to take off the drywall (and lath/plaster) and put up beadboard on the studs. so this gives me the extra room.

i then DRY fit the toilet on the flange, and everything is great. got the room, toilet sits nice and level and on the floor as it should be.

so i flip toilet upside down, put the wax wring + plastic horn on the toilet and then lift it into place. i give it a rock back/forth and push down.

BUT!!! the toilet is not resting on the floor at the back! the front rests on the floor, but the back is raised about 1/2" I mean I can fit my fingers under the back :mad:

I even sit on the toilet...

But no dice... toilet just doesn't sit flush.

What went wrong here?

The flange is screwed into the floor. The flange is about 1/4" thick and rests ON the floor (and is screwed in place).

any suggestions? should i build a 1/2" platform to sit the toilet on? Should I buy an ultra thin, no horn, wax ring?

Appreciate all the feedback :)

Hey:

Did you know about offset toilet flanges? Look here:

Toilet Flanges from the most FAMOUS Internet PLUMBING SUPPLY

Paper weights seem to be getting bigger all the time <G>.

Hello Knucklez:

Never easy is it..

Either the floor is out of level , the tile is out of level OR the toilet bowl is defective (malformed).

In this case, check the tile floor using a 2' level and then check that information against the base of the toilet. Hopefully can see from there.

Let us know... Mark.

The floor is pine plank.

No it is not perfectly level, but it is nowhere near as bad as demonstrated when the toilet is on the flange.

And recall, I dry fit (i.e. no wax ring) the toilet and it sat pretty good. Hardly any gap at all, all the way around.

But with the wax ring it was aweful, I could fit my fingers under the back between the bowl and floor.

The toilet bowl I don't think is defective, its new, and also it sits flat when on a flat surface, and also when it is on top of the flange but with no wax ring..

I'm going to HD tonight to buy a small no horn wax ring and will try that..

Knucklez

Hey Knucklez:

With that information I have to assume that you did not set the bowl down over flange correctly.. Maybe the wax gasket moved up and over the flange a bit--->> Would not be the first time, believe me. Did you install wax gasket to bowl and then set bowl? Or did you set wax gasket on flange and then set bowl..

I just can't imagine what else might cause issue. Lift the toilet and reset... thanks for updates!
Let us know..

That's a good thought.

I put the flange on the bowl first and then set the bowl.

Anyway, when I lifted the bowl, the ring and horn came up with the toilet. All in one piece. It almost looked in brand new condition, as if it where never even compressed which is odd.. considering I did SIT on the bowl to squish it... there was some text from the flange that got squished into the wax, so I could read the impression.. so I think that it did get on with good alignment.

But still.. I did notice that the toilet flange (the porcelain flange that is) is rather small. It looks like 2" diameter which is really odd for a toilet. and the lip can't be more than 1/4" deep.

So I go to HD and ask for a "thin" wax gasget, no horn.

I bring it home and the thing is like butter.. but I put it on the toilet and it went down flat.
Gave it a few flushes, no leaks... looks like it's ready for the big show :D

Thanks for all your help, knowing you guys/girls are here gives me confidence to give it a go myself.

I've documented my progress over here

Check tomorrow, post should be done by then.

Knucklez