 |
It looks like most of the ones in the main part of the house are about 47" to the top of the switch box and around 18" to the top of the outlet boxes. Does it really matter by code or is it subjective? Also, what size wire is recommended for lighting and outlets in a finished basement? 12/2 w/ ground or 14/2 w/ground?
Use a standard 16 oz. straight claw hammer for receptacle height.
This puts the bottom of the outlet box about 13" above the floor.
For light switches, go 42" to the bottom of the switchbox.
For counter top receptacles/switches go 46" to the bottom of the box.
Completely subjective.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ermeling
The only times it matters is if you have to follow ADA requirements, which don't apply in your home, and for "required" receptacles you can't be higher than 5.5' and now lower then literally in the floor within18" of the wall.
Once the minimum receptacles have been met you can put them in the middle of the floor or the middle of the ceiling if you want.
I use 48" TTT (to the top) for switches; kitchen counter, garage, unfinished basement receptacles.
44" TTT for bath vanity receptacles.
16" TTT for regular receptacles. (Don't get me started on "hammer height" :rolleyes: )
Whatever you want. Some rooms, like kitchen, laundry and bath receptacles DO require 20A circuits, but for a general habitable room use what you want. I' use 14/2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ermeling
I use 18" to the center(20 to the top)for recepticles.
48' to the center for switches, 42' for kitchen and vanitys.
80 " to the center for Bath and porch lights.
Back splashes, counters, ceilings may need to alter these heights.
We can't use #14, if I could,I would still use #12 on a 20?
Wow, it seems to really vary. Thanks for all the answers guys. One other thing-At what height does everyone drill the holes for running the outlet wiring? And what size hole?
In NFPA 101 it says that the handle of a switch should be no higher than 48" so I have always put switches at 46" bottom of the box and receptacles seem to work well at 14" to bottom. Vanities kitchens and unfinished areas are 43" which allows enough room in a bath or kitchen for your backsplash and to answer about your hole drilling, I have always found that 99% of the time it is less time consuming to drill the top plates with a 1 1/8" auger in a right angle drill, however if you drill parallel to the floor you will find it easier if you hold the right angle at hip height, this will also give you a consistent height which will make pulling the wires easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ermeling
Where are you that you must follow NFPA 101 for residential work?
Also, I hope you are not drilling a 1 1/8" hole in 2x4 lumber.
I use 7/8" for 1/2 inch PVC and ENT(Smurf), 1 1/8" for 3/4 PVC and Smurf. You will need nail plates if hole is 1 1/4" from edge of stud. Drill 7/8"in center and you won't need a nail plate, Don't Notch.
I mainly work in commercial however I use the ada requirement found in 101 as a guideline (esp since I do a lot of FA installation). 1 1/8 is the maximum allowable size hole (when centered) allowed by code in a 3 1/2" 2x4 wall (if not centered you can still do it by using a stud guard
This is by my local codes (IA) perhaps yours vary
Actually 1" is the largest.Quote:
Originally Posted by mbackususmc
1" bit and 1.25" on each side makes the 3.5" stud.
I mainly use 1" but even that is cutting it close. Getting DEAD center is not as easy as it seems. If I am not comfortable with that I'll use 7/8". And I don't think I'll be nail plating a couple of hundred studs in a house or commercial space.
I hate nail plates, luckily not a lot of 3/4 as comapred to 1/2" conduits. Haven't had to use more than 10 on a house.
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:50 AM. |