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Originally Posted by stanfortyman

To QN. The information I have given you is code correct. I have provided facts to back it up. Whether or not you follow this or other information is up to you.
Good luck.

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Even if I wanted to the technician and inspector are not going to let it happen. I'm not in a hurry. I rather be late and have it done right the first time.

Thanks for your suggestion.

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Originally Posted by qn1234

I rather be late and have it done right the first time.

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Good call. :)

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Originally Posted by qn1234

...Given that have a 12/2 wg, can I use the bare for neutral and share the ground off the oven sitting right below the microwave?....

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No. Period. stanfortyman explained that way back in the post where he gave the only exception to that is SE cable. You have NM. NO again.

Okay,

Explain for me, for my own edification, why the same arrangement is allowed to run 10/2 240 VAC using the taped white as L2 to a baseboard heater? Because that's what a licensed electrician did in what is now my office, really it was a shed, but because I make too much noise, it became my office.

At least according to the last owner, the work was done by a licensed electrician. As a matter of fact, he did a home run from the heater to the SEP for the heat, then installed a home run from a sub panel in the office tied back to a different 240 VAC breaker. That sub panel is wired with two 120 vac -30 amp (thin lines) and one 120 vac 20 amp breaker.

Is it because the floor baseboard heat does not need a 120 VAC as the does the convection microwave?

Qn, If you get your 4 conductors from panel to Micro, their can't be any argument.
If the Oven is in Conduit, you may be able to pull additional wires through there, then fish up to micro. Good Luck

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Originally Posted by donf

Is it because the floor baseboard heat does not need a 120 VAC as the does the convection microwave?

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Exactly.
Things like a baseboard heater, water heater, bigger electric motors, A/C condensors, all are straight 240v loads. The circuits they use require NO neutral.
In these cases the use of "2-wire" type cable (ie: 12/2, 10/2, etc) is acceptable and typical.

Well, why didn't you write that out in English for me to misread earlier? :)

Thanks

Those instructions are the worst I've seen. The three wire instructions say to connect 4 wires and the 4 wire instructions say to connect 4 wires. The only thing I see different is the picture. Please confirm that.

It sounds like it's the range case and the 4 wire range connected to a three wire supply requires that white/bare of the oven be conncted to bare of the feed. Red is connected to L2, Black is connected to L1. L1 and L2 are Line 1, Line 2 or hot1 and hot 2.

Is that what everybody gets now that it's OK with tk that a 3 wire feed can be used for a 4 wire appliance in this configuration?

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Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

Those instructions are the worst I've seen. The three wire instructions say to connect 4 wires and the 4 wire instructions say to connect 4 wires. The only thing I see different is the picture. Please confirm that.

It sounds like it's the range case and the 4 wire range connected to a three wire supply requires that white/bare of the oven be conncted to bare of the feed. Red is connected to L2, Black is connected to L1. L1 and L2 are Line 1, Line 2 or hot1 and hot 2.

Is that what everybody gets now that it's OK with tk that a 3 wire feed can be used for a 4 wire appliance in this configuration?

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Yes, I agree that those instructions are terrible.
For one thing they only say 240v, when it is NOT "240v", it is 120/240v. The stupid "3-wire" and "4-wire" terminology is what is causing this WHOLE mess.

Also, they are NOT saying "that white/bare of the oven be conncted to bare of the feed."

Here is the quote from the instructions for the "

Here is the quote from the instructions for the " hookup:

"2. Connect the 2 white wires (D) and the green (or bare) ground
wire (of the microwave oven cable) using a UL listed wire
connector." hookup:

"the two white wires"

They say "of the microwave oven cable" is VERY important.

They probably should say; 240 for existing compatible wiring. 120/240 for new wiring.

Not really. The oven DOES require 120/240v, and even an older circuit still is 120/240v. It just lacks a dedicated ground.

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Originally Posted by Stratmando

qn, If you get your 4 conductors from panel to Micro, their can't be any argument.
If the Oven is in Conduit, you may be able to pull additional wires through there, then fish up to micro. Good Luck

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I checked. It's not it a conduit, and it's nailed to the studs. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stanfortyman

Yes, I agree that those instructions are terrible.
For one thing they only say 240v, when it is NOT "240v", it is 120/240v. The stupid "3-wire" and "4-wire" terminology is what is causing this WHOLE mess.

Also, they are NOT saying "that white/bare of the oven be conncted to bare of the feed."

Here is the quote from the instructions for the "3-wire" hookup:

"2. Connect the 2 white wires (D) and the green (or bare) ground
wire (of the microwave oven cable) using a UL listed wire
connector."

They say "the two white wires" when they mean the white from the oven and the white from the feed. The point is that the ground FROM THE OVEN gets bonded to the neutral in the case of an existing legal 3-wire circuit.
The term "of the microwave oven cable" is VERY important.

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If you guys are confused, a typical guy like me without much of electrical wiring background would be much, much more confused.

But you picked up on it. I mostly follow the motto "If all else fails, read the instructions".