Hi everybody!

I just found this website on the computer and I'm hoping someone can help me out... I have a situation. The reset button on one of my kitchen outlets doesn't work. By not working, neither button will pop in or out. They are just kind of "there". Now, I have several outlets that aren't working because of that. Unfortunately, one of the outlets is for my refrigerator... :( My question is can I replace that outlet and if so, how do I do it? I have never done any electrical work, but it seems kind of dumb to have to hire an electrician (which is very hard to get ahold of anyway) just to place an outlet.

I would greatly appreciate any help!

Thanks in advance!

Angie

Yes you can replace the outlet. Those are called GFCI outlets. They are relatively easy to replace. Here is a site with a simple tutorial that walks you through the process of replacing the outlet:

Installing a GFCI Outlet Tutorial

John -

Thank you so much!! I found the website and I'm printing everything out that I will need. It looks like it shouldn't be too hard. One more question, it says "Make sure that the amp rating of your new GFCI outlet is consistent with the amp rating of the wiring and the breaker or fuse". How do I find out what the "amp rating" is. Like I said I'm totally new to this.

Angie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by angiek1

John -

Thank you so much!!! I found the website and I'm printing everything out that I will need. It looks like it shouldn't be too hard. One more question, it says "Make sure that the amp rating of your new GFCI outlet is consistent with the amp rating of the wiring and the breaker or fuse". How do I find out what the "amp rating" is. Like I said I'm totally new to this.

Angie

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The current rating is generally indicated on the front of the fuse carrier.

* Lighting circuits typically use 5 amp fuse wire, but not greater than 10 amp.
* Socket outlets use 10 amp fuse wire but not greater than 15 amp fuse wire.
* Large appliances, such as electric stoves, may use a larger size fuse.

From:

Electrical Wiring | Safe Living with Electricity | Electrical Safety

See I'm learning something new every day. I never realized what those numbers were for. Thank you so much for the lesson!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by angiek1

See I'm learning something new every day. I never realized what those numbers were for. Thank you so much for the lesson!

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Glad to help. Just a quick warning, since you are new to this, please please make sure that you have the power turned off to the outlet before you begin. Good Luck!

I certainly will. I see where they advise you to use a circuit tester to verify the power is off and I think I will buy one of them too. I'm certain I know which breaker it is, but I'd rather be safe than sorry!

I really, really appreciate your help!

Angie

Make sure you check the breaker in the fuse box. It may not be the GFCI at all. When the breaker is tripped there is some play when you try to move it to the on position. To reset the breaker, move to off then on. You may have briefly overloaded the circuit. A GFCI won't trip under this condition.

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

Only the very oldest houses have fuses except maybe in things like A/C disconnects. Even where there are other fuses, most of them are 15 or 20 amp. I think code now requires replacing fuses panels with breakers.

The breaker was the first thing I checked and it wasn't tripped. I had really hoped it was that, but unfortunately it wasn't.

Some corrections:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnSnownw

* Lighting circuits typically use 5 amp fuse wire, but not greater than 10 amp.
* Socket outlets use 10 amp fuse wire but not greater than 15 amp fuse wire.

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Lighting circuits are minimum 15 amps with #14 wire, may be 20 amps with #12 wire.

Receptacle circuits in a kitchen all need to be a minimum of 20 amp.


The GFI may be tripping due to a ground fault it is detecting in any one of the outlets it is protecting.

Reefers are known to trip GFI devices.

Consider getting the reefer onto a no- GFI circuit or outlet. GFI is not needed and not recommended.

Be sure all appliances are unlpugged and try to reset the outlet.