I have two hopefully simple questions.

First, my wife's hair dryer plug's prongs get very hot. In fact if she is not careful when she pulls the plug out, the prongs could (almost) burn the skin. Lowering the dryer's heat setting significantly reduces how hot the prongs get... other items that I have plugged in that outlet (as a test) do not get hot, and using the hair dryer in other outlets still results in "hot" prongs. This suggests to me that (a) the hair dryer is pulling too much power for the circuit (one was 15 and one was actually 20 amps) or the dryer itself is defective... any way to tell which one? Is this a fire hazard?

The second has to do with 3 way switch wiring... for reasons too involved to go into on the forum I want to replace a 3 way switch-light set up to use a wireless switch (one at either of the steps) but use the wiring at the light for the receiver. My question is that do I just connect black to black, white to white and cap the red at one switch, and then do black-black, white-white, and cap the red at the receiver/light end - and then cap the wires going to the other - now dead - switch (which I probably will remove and cap and just cover with a outlet cover)? (I will pull the wires if possible, but I suspect they are stapled to the studs).

I'll deal with Q1 for now:

Can be both. Reasoning, the outlets in your house may be of the same age and are not gripping as they should. Second, you may have noticed some discoloration on the dryer cord. Remove that with 400 grit paper and try again in another TIGHT outlet. There are testers that can test the tightness of the outlet.

Report back.

If it gets better, then I'd replace the outlet. If it's the same then I'd either replace the dryer or the plug on the dryer. If it's been going on for some time, I'd probably also replace the outlet it's most used in.

Loose Connections Generate Heat,
I would start with a new receptacle, if it still does it and the Hair Dryer prongs are clean, it may be the internal connections of the Molded plug.


Figure where you want the receiver/switch.
1 3 way switch has constant power, other 3 way has common go to load(lights), you will likely have to use traveler(s) to get hot or switchleg and neutral to wireless switch location.
Does it use a neutral, what model is it?

Thanks for the info on the plug issue.

The wireless is from Lightning Switch. The wire-in receiver is their ProGrade receiver (not sure they had any other one).

The details on my 3 way issue is that one switch is at the top of the stairs and the second switch is on the landing halfway up. The first part of the stairs goes up against the outside wall and I presume whomever did the work could not / did not want to run the wires down to a switch at the bottom (it is brick and plaster on that wall). So my plan is to put a wireless switch at the top and bottom, remove the current switches but use the existing wiring to the light (where I will put in the receiver). But if I can't pull the wires out of the all I just want to make sure I leave them in a proper state...

I did find this:
LightningSwitch.com™ - Information and Secure Ordering
Don't have time to look through now, Can you tell me yet if you need a Neutral?
Looks like this will do what you want, They probably have a keyfob to work with this as well.
X10 Can also do what you are trying, they are battery powered, can be stuck on brick or glass with no wires.

Don't bother pulling the wires, just cap the ends.

Another wireless switch suitable for home automation is Insteon.

And take a look here too: http://www.adhocelectronics.com/Prod...ghting-Control

yes that is the product I am getting. It does need a neutral (you wire it as you would a normal receptacle, except it does not have nor (evidently) need an equipment ground. You then wire the receiver to the light. The lightning switch is a bit pricey - but it is battery free... I will have to look at X10. I found some things from Ad Hoc (enocean) - they seemed similar to lightning switch - but even more expensive.

with the X10 you can install a receiver, at the least, it needs a hot and switchleg, maybe a neutral, will have to look back. Then you can double stick 3 way switches anywhere, they have a battery, totally wireless. If these transmitters need 120 volts, travellers rewired can get necessay wires at the 3? Locations.
Each toggles the on/off command for the transmitter