Hi.
A rafter was broken in the attic. The roof leaked... wasn't caught until inspector saw broken rafter. The rafter was repaired, but the roof still has two small sags.

-Is this just cosmetic or should I be concerned?

-Will I have roof problems later?

I am closing on the house this week and need to know ASAP so I can fight to get it corrected if needed.

I have been told not to worry... that the wood probably got wet and is bent, but functional... just to brace it with more 2 x 4s... is this true?

Thank you,
R55ree

a lot of questions about your post. You have roof problems now, so stop worrying if you will have them later. A roof has no memory. If you fix it and fix it right there will be no further problems. However I need a lot more information. Is the broken rafter a 2x4? This is way undersized. Any explanation as to how it got broken? Did a tree limb fall on roof? Was it damaged from a heavy snow load or an ice dam? Is there insulation up there right under the roof or is it on the floor of the attic? Is the attic floor finished or do you have access to the floor joists? This kind of damage on a fairly new house is a big red flag. If he didn't maintain the roof or fix the break or the leak he probably neglected a lot of other important stuff too. You would be absolutely right to lower your bid or just reconsider getting involved with this house. Basically You want a 2x6 rafter 16" on center at the absolute minimum and covered by 3/4" of exterior CDX plywood. You would start from the low point, brace the roof boards, use a jack between the floor joist and this brace to raise everything back up level and then slip a new rafter underneath and tie into the wall plate and ridgeplate before removing the jack. Then you can cut out the old broken one. Then you got to patch the roof from the outside, all this moving around will have disturbed the shingles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by r55ree

Hi.
A rafter was broken in the attic. The roof leaked...wasn't caught until inspector saw broken rafter. The rafter was repaired, but the roof still has two small sags.

-Is this just cosmetic or should I be concerned?

-Will I have roof problems later?

I am closing on the house this week and need to know ASAP so I can fight to get it corrected if needed.

I have been told not to worry...that the wood probably got wet and is bent, but functional....just to brace it with more 2 x 4s...is this true?

Thank you,
R55ree

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ATTIC STRUCTURE:
The attic was accessed through a scuttle in the garage. The attic above the living
Space was insulated with loose-fill insulation, approximately 10-12-inches in depth.
Ventilation throughout the attic was provided by soffit and static roof vents. The roof
Structure consisted of two-inch by six-inch wood rafters spaced 24 inches on center
And OSB (waferboard) sheathing. Defect: There was a broken rafter over the west
Side of the garage that was causing a dip in the roof.
Because of the configuration of the framing, ductwork, personal belongings, and
Lack of catwalks, which limit access in most attics, it is usually not possible to inspect all
Areas of the attic. There were no visible roof leaks or moisture issues observed in the
visible attic space. The absence of visible indications of moisture is not necessarily
Conclusive evidence that the roof is free from leaks as many leaks only appear under
Certain weather conditions. During dry periods, it is very difficult to determine if visible
Stains are active leaks or old damage from a problem that has been repaired unless
There are obvious problems indicating a leak would be likely. The only way to be sure a
Roof does not leak is to inspect the underside of the roof during a heavy rain.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wildandblue

a lot of questions about your post. You have roof problems now, so stop worrying if you will have them later. A roof has no memory. If you fix it and fix it right there will be no further problems. However I need a lot more information. Is the broken rafter a 2x4? This is way undersized. Any explanation as to how it got broken? Did a tree limb fall on roof? Was it damaged from a heavy snow load or an ice dam? Is there insulation up there right under the roof or is it on the floor of the attic? Is the attic floor finished or do you have access to the floor joists? This kind of damage on a fairly new house is a big red flag. If he didn't maintain the roof or fix the break or the leak he probably neglected a lot of other important stuff too. You would be absolutely right to lower your bid or just reconsider getting involved with this house. Basically You want a 2x6 rafter 16" on center at the absolute minimum and covered by 3/4" of exterior CDX plywood. You would start from the low point, brace the roof boards, use a jack between the floor joist and this brace to raise everything back up level and then slip a new rafter underneath and tie into the wall plate and ridgeplate before removing the jack. Then you can cut out the old broken one. Then you got to patch the roof from the outside, all this moving around will have disturbed the shingles.

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From: R55ree: Here is the inspection report:

ATTIC STRUCTURE:
The attic was accessed through a scuttle in the garage. The attic above the living
Space was insulated with loose-fill insulation, approximately 10-12-inches in depth.
Ventilation throughout the attic was provided by soffit and static roof vents. The roof
Structure consisted of two-inch by six-inch wood rafters spaced 24 inches on center
And OSB (waferboard) sheathing. Defect: There was a broken rafter over the west
Side of the garage that was causing a dip in the roof.
Because of the configuration of the framing, ductwork, personal belongings, and
Lack of catwalks, which limit access in most attics, it is usually not possible to inspect all
Areas of the attic. There were no visible roof leaks or moisture issues observed in the
visible attic space. The absence of visible indications of moisture is not necessarily
Conclusive evidence that the roof is free from leaks as many leaks only appear under
Certain weather conditions. During dry periods, it is very difficult to determine if visible
Stains are active leaks or old damage from a problem that has been repaired unless
There are obvious problems indicating a leak would be likely. The only way to be sure a
Roof does not leak is to inspect the underside of the roof during a heavy rain.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wildandblue

a lot of questions about your post. You have roof problems now, so stop worrying if you will have them later. A roof has no memory. If you fix it and fix it right there will be no further problems. However I need a lot more information. Is the broken rafter a 2x4? This is way undersized. Any explanation as to how it got broken? Did a tree limb fall on roof? Was it damaged from a heavy snow load or an ice dam? Is there insulation up there right under the roof or is it on the floor of the attic? Is the attic floor finished or do you have access to the floor joists? This kind of damage on a fairly new house is a big red flag. If he didn't maintain the roof or fix the break or the leak he probably neglected a lot of other important stuff too. You would be absolutely right to lower your bid or just reconsider getting involved with this house. Basically You want a 2x6 rafter 16" on center at the absolute minimum and covered by 3/4" of exterior CDX plywood. You would start from the low point, brace the roof boards, use a jack between the floor joist and this brace to raise everything back up level and then slip a new rafter underneath and tie into the wall plate and ridgeplate before removing the jack. Then you can cut out the old broken one. Then you got to patch the roof from the outside, all this moving around will have disturbed the shingles.

---

From: R55ree: Here is the inspection report:

ATTIC STRUCTURE:
The attic was accessed through a scuttle in the garage. The attic above the living
Space was insulated with loose-fill insulation, approximately 10-12-inches in depth.
Ventilation throughout the attic was provided by soffit and static roof vents. The roof
Structure consisted of two-inch by six-inch wood rafters spaced 24 inches on center
And OSB (waferboard) sheathing. Defect: There was a broken rafter over the west
Side of the garage that was causing a dip in the roof.
Because of the configuration of the framing, ductwork, personal belongings, and
Lack of catwalks, which limit access in most attics, it is usually not possible to inspect all
Areas of the attic. There were no visible roof leaks or moisture issues observed in the
visible attic space. The absence of visible indications of moisture is not necessarily
Conclusive evidence that the roof is free from leaks as many leaks only appear under
Certain weather conditions. During dry periods, it is very difficult to determine if visible
Stains are active leaks or old damage from a problem that has been repaired unless
There are obvious problems indicating a leak would be likely. The only way to be sure a
Roof does not leak is to inspect the underside of the roof during a heavy rain.

Basically I'm interested in if the underside of the roof is accessible, if the floor joists above the ceiling are accessible. You want to jack directly over a joist. The existing rafters are not undersized but they are spaced too far apart and OSB is not for roof sheathing can be used for wall sheathing. Minimum roof is 2x6 rafters 16" on center covered with 3/4" CDX exterior glue grade plywood. You want to jack everything up and use 2 new rafters slipping one into place on each side of the bad.Definitely use a brace like a 1x6 board against the underside of the roof to jack against so you don't tear right through the OSB.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wildandblue

Basically I'm interested in if the underside of the roof is accessible, if the floor joists above the ceiling are accessible. You want to jack directly over a joist. The existing rafters are not undersized but they are spaced too far apart and OSB is not for roof sheathing can be used for wall sheathing. Minimum roof is 2x6 rafters 16" on center covered with 3/4" CDX exterior glue grade plywood. You want to jack everything up and use 2 new rafters slipping one into place on each side of the bad.Definitely use a brace like a 1x6 board against the underside of the roof to jack against so you don't tear right thru the OSB.

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Yes. I am able to walk in the attic... I do not believe there is a floor under the rafter, but I am able to get up there. I have heard that if you jack it up, other problems occur... Secondly, since you feel they are too far apart, is it a pretty easy fix to have some more added?

Lastly, I believe it just was a poor piece of wood. All other rafters look fine... owner didn't even know that there was a leak...
Thanks.

Sorry to be so long getting back to you. (Holiday weekend and company over.) Good if you can easily get into the attic you should be able to fix this problem. Are these simple and straight rafters? If they are trusses or you have a complicated roofline the cost goes up. You can easily and inexpensively slip in a full set of new rafters using the same basic principle. If only the sagging one is out of level you don't need to jack up those other areas at all just push the new rafter up against the underside of the roof. A rafter spans from the top of the wall (plate) to the top of the roofline (ridge) some people will have an actual beam, the ridgepole running across the very top. Others will simply join (nail together) the two rafters coming up from opposite sides of the roof at the peak. You can open up a small area of the roof overhang from the outside to slip your rafters up into the attic if this is easier than getting them up through the stairs. You will now have good support for your roof but it concerns me that the poor OSB is covering this. Try getting a roofing estimate if the roof could be replaced, they could just nail CDX plywood right over the OSB without needing a tearoff that could cause property damage if it rains during the process. Yes you need to be careful with a jack you could make cracks in a ceiling downstairs so go slow. The house is fairly rigid but the roof is sagging and unsupported so there should be no problem getting it to push up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wildandblue

sorry to be so long getting back to you. (Holiday weekend and company over.) Good if you can easily get into the attic you should be able to fix this problem. Are these simple and straight rafters? If they are trusses or you have a complicated roofline the cost goes up. You can easily and inexpensively slip in a full set of new rafters using the same basic priciple. If only the sagging one is out of level you don't need to jack up those other areas at all just push the new rafter up against the underside of the roof. A rafter spans from the top of the wall (plate) to the top of the roofline (ridge) some people will have an actual beam, the ridgepole running across the very top. Others will simply join (nail together) the two rafters coming up from opposite sides of the roof at the peak. You can open up a small area of the roof overhang from the outside to slip your rafters up into the attic if this is easier than getting them up through the stairs. You will now have good support for your roof but it concerns me that the poor OSB is covering this. Try getting a roofing estimate if the roof could be replaced, they could just nail CDX plywood right over the OSB without needing a tearoff that could cause property damage if it rains during the process. Yes you need to be careful with a jack you could make cracks in a ceiling downstairs so go slow. The house is fairly rigid but the roof is sagging and unsupported so there should be no problem getting it to push up.

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Thanks. No problem- hope you had a nice weekend. Thank you for the information. It is just a straight rafter. It should not be a problem. I will take your advice and get the OSB covered.
Have a great week.
R55ree