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    jaydee23's Avatar
    jaydee23 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #21

    Jun 30, 2006, 03:42 PM
    OK relay works.. car starts every time.. on to rpm


    First time car is started in hours runs normal for about 5-8 seconds (1000rpm)

    After this it starts fluctuating from 1750 to 1300 up and down constantly


    Any ideas?. I guess the egr would be the next step huh? Unless you have any more diagnostic tricks up your sleeve
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #22

    Jun 30, 2006, 03:47 PM
    Good job. Yes, install the repaired EGR and make sure the MAP sensor hoses are in good shape and not leaking.
    jaydee23's Avatar
    jaydee23 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #23

    Jun 30, 2006, 03:48 PM
    No way to test the egr huh? Just got to replace I assume
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #24

    Jun 30, 2006, 04:15 PM
    There might be some vacuum test but I would just check it over and make sure everything looks O.K. Check for any apparent vacuum leaks. Make sure the hose is in good shape. I don't really know your configuration. Only if there is a leak in the diaphragm should there be a need to replace it. You mentioned you cleaned it thoroughly.

    Make sure it's not corroded or stuck. Push on the EGR valve diaphragm. Using moderate pressure, you should be able to press the diaphragm up-and-down within the housing. If it doesn't move or moves only with a lot of effort, replace it with a new one.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #25

    Jun 30, 2006, 04:51 PM
    jaydee23, if the EGR, evaporative canister, and hoses doesn't solve the idling problem, then other possibilities are:

    . Bad spark plug wires. Make sure the resistance of each wire is less than 25,000 ohms. Wires that have been taken off and disturbed a lot can cause very unusual idle and running performance.
    . Idle Air Control Valve.

    Make sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal (or remove the reset fuse) for 15 seconds, in order for the computer to reset itself and relearn everything.

    How many miles do you have on your Accord? Have you replaced your spark plugs yet? How would you access the overall condition of the engine?
    jaydee23's Avatar
    jaydee23 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #26

    Jun 30, 2006, 05:54 PM
    engine has 80000 and has moderate tune up at 75000.. plugs fluids.. no wires though

    there is no rough idling at al.. very smooth.. engine run great and strong

    egr seems to be in great shape although I will wait and see if it throws the egr code again.. my best guess is a sensor seeing as though it is so consistently repetative. With a machanical issue my guess is I would get some random ,not perfectly consistent, symptoms.. (unless air leak? )

    I really appreciate your help and will look into the suggestion you have made.. my machanics may not be all that happy though.. good honest dudes though..
    moore0316's Avatar
    moore0316 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #27

    Jun 7, 2008, 09:24 PM
    Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
    It is the main relay. A very common problem with Hondas. Word?
    H20mike's Avatar
    H20mike Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #28

    Jun 21, 2008, 04:49 AM
    Just to chime in... I'm having/had both of the problems you've described on my 98 Accord V6... thanks for the diagnosis and fix for the main relay.

    The idle problem was the Idle Air Control valve on mine... just as you described, idle fluctating rhythmically (not erratic) between 1K and 2K rpm. Changed the IAC valve, problem gone...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #29

    Jun 21, 2008, 04:55 AM
    H20mike, using full-synthetic engine oil and changing the air filter regularly greatly reduces residue/dirt build-up in the IACV, hoses, throttle plate, and plenum.
    98accord's Avatar
    98accord Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #30

    Jul 30, 2008, 04:36 AM
    Sorry to be asking this question again, but I couldn't find the main relay under the dashboard. I have a 98 accord 4 cylinder. The earlier models apparently needed to have the cruise control relay removed in order to get to it, I removed what I thought to be the cruise control relay (silver metal box on the right hand side of the steering column) and I couldn't find it. I also looked around the fuse box but no grey box to be found. Can someone possibly post the position of it on a 4 cylinder?

    Thanks.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #31

    Jul 30, 2008, 07:00 AM
    98accord, it's located to the left of the steering column. Turning the ignition key on and off will help you locate the main relay, by allowing you to hear and feel it "click." Main relays often have 7 wires going to them.
    rgaudry's Avatar
    rgaudry Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #32

    Jun 24, 2010, 07:24 PM
    Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
    Engine stops and goes I thought it is the gas pump but told I am wrong
    wiz9898's Avatar
    wiz9898 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #33

    Jun 30, 2012, 07:14 PM
    I have been chasing same troubles and presently have main relay hanging
    Out so next time don't start will measure all points and find out
    HOWEVER -as one guy points out all these trouble points go back
    To a ground somewhere on the engine and my grounds look corroded
    Try cleaning every ground point in the car might clear some grief
    Jim
    Toronto
    wiz9898's Avatar
    wiz9898 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #34

    Jun 30, 2012, 07:32 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by jaydee23 View Post
    Ok. I would love some help with this (1998 accord v6 lx)

    -3 months ago. Car won't start. Spring temps. Does this once or twice in a month. Starts up after I retry in 15 minutes or so.

    -2 months ago. Starting to do it more often. 1 or 2 times a week now

    -1 month ago. Car stalls while driving. Won't restart. Wait 10 min. Retstarts and I drive home. Now car sits because I am afraid to get stuck. I do some research a realize my fuel pump is not coming on so I swap it out for a new one.. Doesnít fix the issue

    More research on this site and I start looking under the dash for relays. I do notice that when the key is turned forward and I hear the relay click and the car starts. When I do not hear the relay click it does not start. Also the fuel pump makes no noise when no click is heard.

    I checked spark on 3 plugs and all seems ok with that..

    New issue.. When the car does start is idles at 2000rpm for about 5 sec then bounces from 1000 to 2000 to 1000 to 2000 over and over..


    Any ideas?
    Have been chasing same troubles and presently have main relay hanging
    Out so next time don't start will measure all points and find out
    HOWEVER -as one guy points out all these trouble points go back
    To a ground somewhere on the engine and my grounds look corroded
    Try cleaning every ground point in the car might clear some grief
    ALSO
    I took the main relay innards out only and not the protective box which is
    Bolted down it flashed against brake bracket and blew fuse (main
    Unswitched feed) and I can't find that fuse anyone know where??
    ALSO
    After getting brake lines replaced, car would not start in shop and had
    To be towed away while in shop I removed battery cable to reset and
    Reload computers as mechanic might have hung it up anyone know
    How long it takes to reboot a honda
    Tnx
    Jim
    Toronto
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #35

    Jun 30, 2012, 07:46 PM
    Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

    Wiz, does the Check Engine Light consistently come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

    Be sure the clean the main ECM ground, which may be located on the thermostat housing. It may have 3 wires going into a brass connector. It goes without saying that all grounds should be corrosion free--clean with abrasive cloth and apply dielectric grease.

    The negative battery cable only needs to be disconnected for 10 seconds to clear all codes in the ECM.
    wiz9898's Avatar
    wiz9898 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #36

    Jul 1, 2012, 09:29 AM
    Tnx tx
    Car wouldn't start briefly today and all voltages were there
    In relay except of course to the fuel pump so trouble
    Is off in the direction of the grounds
    Jim
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #37

    Jul 1, 2012, 10:14 AM
    Wiz, what about the Check Engine Light?
    wiz9898's Avatar
    wiz9898 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #38

    Jul 1, 2012, 06:26 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by wiz9898 View Post
    tnx tx
    car wouldnt start briefly today and all voltages were there
    in relay except of course to the fuel pump so trouble
    is off in the direction of the grounds
    jim
    Tx
    Gday
    On thermostat are a couple of ugly looking suckers a fat and a thin
    In a nice warm and I mean warm place to work is it the thin (only
    Three wire maybe or the fat)
    Tnx
    Jim
    wiz9898's Avatar
    wiz9898 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #39

    Jul 3, 2012, 11:41 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by wiz9898 View Post
    tx
    gday
    on thermostat are a couple of ugly looking suckers a fat and a thin
    in a nice warm and i mean warm place to work is it the thin (only
    three wire maybe or the fat)
    tnx
    jim
    Gday
    A generous spray of oil (wd40) on the ecm ground connector located
    At thermostat has seemed to clear the trouble with the ground
    That connector requires a tool to undo and should be handled carefully
    Jim
    patrick4445's Avatar
    patrick4445 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #40

    Mar 9, 2013, 05:56 PM
    I have a 1998 honda accord lx v6 the start with no problem then after getting hot then the engine will cut off. Then when you tried to restart the key display won't show up then after 15 min it will show then the car will start.

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