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-   -   Camry 1993 won't crank when hot (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=628444)

  • Jan 17, 2012, 09:57 AM
    Tagnar
    Camry 1993 won't crank when hot
    Have a 1993 Toyota Camry - Cranks and starts fine when cold. Let it run for a bit and turn it off - and it won't crank at all for about 20 - 30 minutes (No clicks no grinds, no whirl, nothing), Lights and internal controls all come on fine. Replaced starter and solonid, and starter relay module - with no effect on the problem. Tried starting in Neutral, giggling keys, all the silly stuff that one does when you think it's an ignition switch or neutral switch to no avail. Seems to be a number of folks out there who have had this particular issue (or very similar) - but no definitive resolution.

    Appreciate the help.
  • Jan 17, 2012, 10:35 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Clean all grounds. Since the starter motor grounds through the mounting bolts, ensure they are clean and free of corrosion. My gut is that the problem is with the heat soaked starter motor (high resistance). Consider installing an additional ground or a starter heat shield. If the problem persists, you may need to install an OEM starter. Toyota rebuilts are superior to aftermarket starters. They are more expensive but much more reliable. My dad is a Toyota man and this has been his experience.

    kitch428, our Toyota trained tech, may have additional suggestions.
  • Jan 17, 2012, 01:30 PM
    CaptainRich
    A non-powered test light and a schematic can help fault trace this to where ever the problem is.
    Let me know if you want the schematics.
    Like TxGreaseMonkey says, check the basics first and let us know what you find.
  • Jan 17, 2012, 05:14 PM
    kitch428
    You seem like an intelligent person, Tagnar. To me in this case nothing beats a volt meter. (DVOM)
    What I like to do is this:
    Run a jumper long enough from the starter solenoid wire connector disconnected from the starter, to your DVOM.
    Place the meter right on the windshield glass.
    Ground the meter, set to volts, now hit the key to crank just when the problem is happening.
    If you see 12V, then the starter is getting it's supply to at least 'click' the solenoid.
    The rest is in chassis grounds like was mentioned.
    If you bought an aftermarket starter, I'm guessing the problem is there.

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