Several months ago the clutch was replaced, and it has been driving fine ever since yesterday when the car did not want to go into any gear, I turned it off and back on and it went in to all the gears for like 30 seconds, then once I shifted out it would not go back in, what is most likely the problem? I am thinking a clutch cable am I right?

You don't have a clutch cable. Instead, you have a hydraulic clutch, which comprises the master cylinder and a slave cylinder. Most likely, the slave cylinder is the culprit. They can be rebuilt or replaced. In the future, bleed the hydraulic clutch (brake fluid) every two years. This will prevent most clutch-related problems from developing. Don't fill the master cylinder reservoir past the top line.

Is a slave cylinder just a resivor?

Nope. The flow is from the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is usually located on the front of the engine--slightly to the passenger side.

Have someone else depress the clutch pedal and then look to see if the clutch release fork moves enough to disengage the clutch.

This link should help a lot, even though it is geared towards Hondas--most of these systems are similar:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post232189

Is this an easy to fix yourself

It's not hard, if you know what you are doing. If you get air in the system, it can be a bear--then, the clutch will go to the floor. Rebuilding/replacing the slave cylinder is not difficult at all. The trouble arises, for some people, if air enters the system.

Will I have to tahe out major componets such as the trans mition?

No. It's located on the front of the engine. Access should be pretty good. Just make sure the slave cylinder is the problem; i.e. the clutch release fork does not move.

Buy a Haynes Manual for your 1994 Ford Escort.

I use the fool-proof Brake Bleeder Economy One-Man, Cal-Van Tools, No. 247, brake bleeder to bleed brakes and hydraulic clutches. It costs $2.99 and has a one-way check valve. Changing the brake fluid every 2 years is the key to trouble-free brakes and clutches.

And to bleed the clutch system is the same as the breaks?

Yes.

K well I just got the car home after driving it about 10 miles, I have not started any thing yet but when I drive the clutch pedal touches the floor and nothing... then I pump the clutch and it seems like pressure builds up then I can switch... then eventually I will have to repeat... after knowing... does your "diagnosis" stay the same

Sounds like classic slave cylinder failure. Rebuild or replace the slave cylinder and completely flush the brake fluid in the hydraulic clutch system and you should be fine.

As always, "Stay Greasy."

K well I replaced the slave and same problem... now I am working on the master but I can't get it this connected from the clutch pedal... I took off the boldt from the fire wall and it still stays in place... and the second screw that goes in the fire walll how do I disconnect that

I'm not familiar enough with your car to advise on the specifics of replacing the clutch master cylinder. Since even the slightest amount of air in the system will cause the clutch pedal to go to the floor, the master cylinder may or may not be the culprit.

K well I replaced it... and now it doesn't start... nor makes any noise indicating that it is trying to start... there was a little white box behind the clutch pedal that appears to be a button for when the clutch is pushed... any idea what it is?

On some vehicles, there is a Clutch Pedal Switch A and a Clutch Pedal Switch B, both of which must be adjusted properly for the engine to start. Again, you really need a Haynes Manual or Service Manual for these techy items.

I'm having the same problem but I can't find where to bleed the clutch

Andy, the bleeder bolt will be on the slave unit. These links may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post232186

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post619000

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1833643