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-   -   93 Honda Accord will crank but won't start any suggestions? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=539583)

  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:15 PM
    Davehonda
    93 Honda Accord will crank but won't start any suggestions?
    I have a 93 honda accord that won't start. I changed the ignition coil last year so I doubt it's that. I just changed dist cap, icm, wires, plugs, and had the battery checked and it's good. Timing belt and water pump was changed almost 30,000 miles ago. The strange thing the day before it wouldn't start it rain really hard while I was driving, but no problems occurred. I noticed before if I raise the hood while its raining like to give someone a jump and turn the car off it acts like it doesn't want to start. I also have a little water on my passenger side floor board. Do you think my ecm somehow got wet?
  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:24 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Does the CEL come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If it does, the problem may be with your distributor housing--one or more internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYP) may have been damaged. Only install a genuine Honda distributor housing. It's fine to install your existing ICM and coil in the new housing.

    Jumping other cars is fraught with risk. It's better to help them remove the battery and get it charged/replaced. A voltage spike can easily toast your ECM, alternator, and various sensors.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:40 PM
    Davehonda
    Thanks for the reply no it stays on. I re-soldered the joints on the main relay already as well. I use jump packs now I found that out the hard way last year. But if the hood is raised during rain it's hard to start cranks and cranks and finally catches.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:48 PM
    Davehonda
    Oops sorry replied in the wrong spot, but I don't have a multimeter but I could go buy one if necessary. I just don't want to deal with Midas they charge me 400 bucks every time I take it in there for anything which is not too often but still.

    It stays on and I'm going to pick up a multimeter now
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:23 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Since the CEL stays on, I suspect the ECM is bad. Therefore:

    . Perform The K-Test on the ECM. Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. "The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist."--TxGM

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:34 PM
    Davehonda
    Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
    Please forgive my ignorance as this is my first time using a multimeter. What set do I set it to there is a circular dial a black and red wire and three holes on this thing and it is digital.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:38 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Set it to DCV.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 04:06 PM
    Davehonda
    Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
    Ok thank you it's too dark out now but I'll check tomorrow morning and let you know.
  • Jan 2, 2011, 09:54 AM
    Davehonda
    OK I checked with the directions you provided. Basically red probe on the right connecting pin of the MAP sensor and black probe on a ground and It read 3.6 volts.

    OK I checked with the directions you provided. Basically red probe on the right connecting pin of the MAP sensor and black probe on a ground and It read 3.6 volts.

    Funny thing though I pulled both the ecm fuses left them out for a couple of minutes put back in and the car started and ran for 30 minutes though the engine light was on. I turned the car off and started it back up ran fine.


    I did it one more time so I could run the car up to the auto parts store to get them to check the engine light code and it wouldn't start again. This was all before I did the K-test.

    I took the ecm cover off and notices there was a submerged water mark on the outside of it I looked in side the ecm it was still a little moisture on some of the parts. I did vac about a gallon of water off the floorboard on the pass side.
  • Jan 2, 2011, 12:50 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    You are experiencing intermittent ECM failure, which is very common on older Hondas. The K-Test results clearly indicate the ECM is failing and is no longer reliable. You need to buy an exact Honda Part No. match. Shop for price and warranty.

    This link should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038
  • Jan 2, 2011, 08:32 PM
    Davehonda
    Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
    Whoa you know your stuff! You wouldn't happen to know where I can get a reliable refurbed one with a warranty from a reputable company(non ebay) do you.
  • Jan 3, 2011, 08:06 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Try O'Reilly Auto Parts. They used to offer Cardone remanufactured ECMs, with a lifetime warranty.
  • Jan 3, 2011, 04:16 PM
    Davehonda
    Comment on TxGreaseMonkey's post
    Do you think the ecm relay could be bad as well?
  • Jan 3, 2011, 06:49 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    No.

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