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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #21

    May 31, 2011, 09:40 PM

    They might, if it hasn't already been shipped out.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #22

    Jun 1, 2011, 10:07 AM

    Update:

    Went the AutoZone and rented the 30mm axle nut socket (again)... went back and got to the point where I am taking the axle out of the trans. I can't get it out... I've got a pry bar, screw driver, etc... and Im not sure how much force I can use against the inner boot cup without destroying it (because I might have to take it back)...

    I will take pictures once I get that axle out to see if everything (seal, male spline, etc.. ) looks good.

    P.S. The guys at AutoZone said my car doesn't have ABS and that extra gear on the new axle are for cars with but it's interchangeable.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #23

    Jun 1, 2011, 10:15 AM

    Try reversing the pry bar from the normal direction and see if it come out. Also, try rotating the inner joint 90 degrees and try again. Rotate it another 90 degrees and try again. It should then come out.

    Correct, the ABS tone ring being on the axle is not an issue for a non-ABS vehicle.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #24

    Jun 1, 2011, 10:59 AM

    I've tried every angle, every way for the pry bar, etc...

    I can't rotate that cv joint, or the joint cup. I can only lift it up and down a tad bit and in and out a tad bit... moving that inner cv joint isn't going to move that spline is it? What's happening is that circlip is preventing that female axle spline end from coming off the male end of the trans. (I think).. not sure how it came off so easy the first time..
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #25

    Jun 1, 2011, 12:14 PM

    I'm almost postitive that circlip is preventing the axle from coming out... is there a way to get it out without removing the tramsmission?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #26

    Jun 1, 2011, 12:35 PM

    I'm out of ideas--see if a friend can assist you.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #27

    Jun 1, 2011, 12:50 PM

    I'm running out of friends that know anything lol
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #28

    Jun 1, 2011, 03:15 PM

    I'm either really screwed now or I'm not... I used a huge pry bar after jacking up my car some more and gave it one big push and BAM!! The whole stub shaft came out with the half shaft...

    Please tell me that isn't as bad as it looks.
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #29

    Jun 1, 2011, 04:45 PM

    It looks fine, from here. Before reinstallation, check all of the dimensions with the original. Coat the splines, circlip, and seal with grease with moly.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #30

    Jun 1, 2011, 04:54 PM

    Umm... that is my stubshaft pulled right out of the differential... (still stuck on the cv axle) is this normal? And can I just slip it back into the spider gears?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #31

    Jun 1, 2011, 05:17 PM

    That's how it works, Jack. Just be sure the axle you are installing is the right one. Again, there should be no room between the inner joint housing and the transaxle housing, when it's fully seated. You should feel the circlip engage in the groove.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #32

    Jun 1, 2011, 05:24 PM

    So it's no problem that the stub-shaft came out with the cv axle? Does that just slide back in and the circlip pops into something on them spider gears?

    I have never taken out a stub shaft before so I don't know how to really put it back in? It seems like simply sliding it back in would work but then of course if things were that easy I wouldn't have spent a week doing a 30-minute swap :D
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #33

    Jun 1, 2011, 05:25 PM

    Pull the axle all othe way out and take a picture of the end of the axle and the transaxle.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #34

    Jun 1, 2011, 05:32 PM

    By transaxle do you mean stub-shaft?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #35

    Jun 1, 2011, 05:35 PM

    The opening in the transaxle (transmission) housing, which the half-axle slides into.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
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    #36

    Jun 1, 2011, 05:51 PM

    Ok. It also appears that a seal on that stub-shaft is broke. The seal is on the end that the cv axle connects to right below the spline... might be worth just getting a new stub-shaft.

    Give me a minute to grab so pics and upload them...
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #37

    Jun 1, 2011, 06:20 PM
    If you have questions about anything just ask... I am going to the gym to workout some aggression :D
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #38

    Jun 1, 2011, 06:30 PM

    I'm unfamiliar with the Stub Shaft, which appears to go deep inside the transaxle housing. Is this correct?

    Have you consulted a Haynes Manual for your car? I recommend that you get one.
    ITstudent2006's Avatar
    ITstudent2006 Posts: 2,243, Reputation: 329
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    #39

    Jun 1, 2011, 06:52 PM

    Yes. It goes deep in the trans and connects to some gears via that spline on the end. I have read the Hayes manual about the cv axle which didn't help but I will reread about the stub shaft.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,755, Reputation: 5596
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    #40

    Jun 1, 2011, 06:58 PM

    The new female spline end looks smaller in the picture. It needs to be the same size as the original to properly seal.

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