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    Darrwood's Avatar
    Darrwood Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #21

    May 23, 2009, 11:26 AM

    When mine stalled the check engine light came on (finally!! ), I took it to honda and the code for excessive play in the cam shaft came up, and that requires engine work. I got an estimate and when I drove off, it was fine, but still idles rough. Got the sensors replaced, maybe faulty ones? but in any case still idles rough. I have an 01 as well, and it has been doing that since 03 I would say...
    ayspro's Avatar
    ayspro Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #22

    Jan 20, 2010, 03:40 PM
    I'm desperate to find out if my 01 civic ex has a regulare fuel filter or if the hole pump assembly has to be changed out
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #23

    Jan 20, 2010, 06:23 PM

    ayspro, your Civic does not have a separate fuel filter. The fuel pump and strainer needs to be changed.
    mikech's Avatar
    mikech Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #24

    Jul 29, 2010, 09:35 AM
    My 2003 honda civic idles rough when slowing down, giving it gas and when just idling. I changed the spark plugs (needed it) and now it idles worse. The body of 3 of my 4 ignition coils are brown/copper color while the fourth looks brand new. Any idea why?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #25

    Jul 29, 2010, 09:45 AM

    Has the Check Engine Light come on recently? The discoloration could be evidence the coils have overheated and are breaking down. If you have 100,000 miles or more on the car, I would replace all of them. Only use the same NGK spark plugs that came in the car. Also, it's best to use dielectric grease, to prevent misfires.
    mikech's Avatar
    mikech Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #26

    Jul 29, 2010, 10:59 AM
    No check engine light on. I have 200,000 miles on the car. I had split fire spark plugs put in at 100,000 and injust put in autolight plugs.
    So I should replace all the coils?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #27

    Jul 29, 2010, 11:09 AM

    I would. Before doing that, however, I would clean the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), because of the mileage on the car:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

    Also, clean the throttle plate and throttle body.
    mikech's Avatar
    mikech Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #28

    Jul 30, 2010, 04:49 AM

    Thanks for your help. How do I find the IACV?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #29

    Jul 30, 2010, 05:40 AM

    It's on the back of the plenum.
    mikech's Avatar
    mikech Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #30

    Jul 30, 2010, 06:48 PM

    I replaced three ignition coils and cleaned the IACV. Now my engine light is on and it is still idling rough.

    Any other ideas?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #31

    Jul 30, 2010, 07:03 PM

    What codes were thrown? This will be crucial information.

    Did you clean the throttle plate and throttle body?

    What is the idle rpm, when the car is at normal operating temperature?
    Allikitten's Avatar
    Allikitten Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #32

    Jul 31, 2010, 09:21 AM
    Did you ever figure out what it was, my honda is doing the same thing, it's getting a new coil as we speak, I hope that fixes it!
    mikech's Avatar
    mikech Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #33

    Aug 3, 2010, 11:35 PM

    It was what you originally suggested, the spark plugs were the problem. I replaced the newly installed Autolite plugs with the NGK and the check engine light went away and the car is running better. I think I need to install the 4th ignition coil to complete the repair. Thanks for your help.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #34

    Aug 4, 2010, 06:23 AM

    mikech, that's good news.
    Problematic's Avatar
    Problematic Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #35

    Oct 15, 2010, 10:59 AM
    This is the same problem I have been facing, I went over a speed breaker pretty hard and when it LANDED the bump was huge.. luckily no body damage or suspension damage occur, but seconds after that my
    Car stalled. It started back up just fine, but after stopping at a red light it stalled again. This has been going on, I changed the spark plugs, cleaned the air filter, flushed, and got a battery checkup done(battery is fine) but it only reduced the vibration and rpm drop a bit. The engine is still stalling and vibrating at rpm below 3k but it goes away when rpm is at 3k and above.. the mechanic said the fuel pump is bad, but he's just dumb, becase I have gas too(cng) and it vibrates on that too, it does not require the fuel pump to work.
    mikech's Avatar
    mikech Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #36

    Oct 16, 2010, 06:45 AM
    The fix to my problem is that it needed new spark plugs. Make sure you use NGK spark plugs. I used autolite spark plugs as the first replacement and it made the problem worst. I switched to NGK and it fixed the problem.
    brovan7552's Avatar
    brovan7552 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #37

    Nov 20, 2010, 09:24 AM
    Comment on FixHondas's post
    FixHondas, I have a similar issue with rough idle, but mainly when the A/C is on. Also, high temp when the car is running, but not moving, like at a red light. High temp resolved by turning heat on high, but that sucks in Miami. Thoughts? Thanks.
    moolieboy's Avatar
    moolieboy Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #38

    Jan 17, 2011, 07:45 PM
    Here's a video about honda Idle problems.
    I hope this helps!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY

    <object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/L788jKEVblY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/L788jKEVblY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
    ndferro's Avatar
    ndferro Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #39

    Mar 4, 2011, 06:31 PM
    Had, The Same issue it was a TDC (Top Dead Center) Sensor Took a few Hrs to replace but runs perfectly now have your codes read I bet you got a TDC Code but it cleared its self before you saw it
    dadjk's Avatar
    dadjk Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #40

    Apr 6, 2011, 10:54 PM
    The cause would be the IAC or idle air control valve. You can locate the sensor and clean it to see if that helps or you just might have to buy a new one.

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