Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    PRPPRIMO's Avatar
    PRPPRIMO Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #121

    Jul 22, 2008, 08:05 PM
    TXGM.. What are your thoughts of a non OEM complete distributor for $140 SHIPPED with a lifetime warranty? I called the local Honda dealer today, and was quoted $120 just for the coil. (special order)
    Im thinking if the aftermarket company will back the distributor lifetime, vs. overpaying for one it may be the better way to go.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #122

    Jul 22, 2008, 08:12 PM
    I prefer installing an aftermarket ICM and coil in a Honda distributor housing ($135)--that's what I did.

    I bought an OEM coil (TEC 30510PT2006) for my Civic from RockAuto.com for $43.90. It's the same TEC OEM coil that came in the car.
    PRPPRIMO's Avatar
    PRPPRIMO Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #123

    Jul 22, 2008, 08:22 PM
    I will get you the results as soon as they become available. I have heard many other with similar symptoms. The distributor ohms out good, and ends up being defective after all. I suppose this is a common hidden malfunction.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #124

    Jul 22, 2008, 08:24 PM
    Yes, I place very little faith in bench testing ICMs and coils.
    PRPPRIMO's Avatar
    PRPPRIMO Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #125

    Jul 25, 2008, 04:56 PM
    I woke up this morning with the thought in my mind that spark was present while cranking the motor. So why am I leaning so much towards an ICM or coil? I then decided to go rent a compression tester and perform a compression check. You guessed it, bad news. I am not getting anymore than 60 parts out of any of the cylinders. Im now thinking if I am going to perform a rebuild I might as well go with an upgrade. Considering installing a VTEC motor. Many available local, however most have been removed from 5th generation civics. Do these bolt in without modifiaction? Obviously I will need more than just the motor itself. ECM and complete wire/vacuum harness must be included. What is your 2 cents on this.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #126

    Jul 25, 2008, 05:01 PM
    Never been involved in that process. Personally, I would rebuild or install the same engine. Many try installing other engines and can't get them to start for the reasons you mentioned. I'd keep it simple and move forward.

    On your new engine, use full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1) and then you will never wear it out or have major engine problems.
    PRPPRIMO's Avatar
    PRPPRIMO Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #127

    Jul 25, 2008, 05:29 PM
    Makes sense. Hopefully other viewers have learned a lot from this thread. Another bit of info is these engines should compress at least 145 parts of pressure per cylinder. If you are experiencing a crank but no start malfunction and have performed all ignition trouble shooting procedures posted by TXGM then it is not a bad idea to also perform a compression check, and ensure timing belt is good and timed properly.
    CoB_hatecrew's Avatar
    CoB_hatecrew Posts: 55, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #128

    Aug 7, 2008, 02:25 PM
    Hey tx , the sensor you told me to check and the 02 sensor, are not the only sensors that control the spray width and durration, there are seven sensors, all of which are tied into the self diagnosis system, so if one of them went bad, my check engine light would come on and my Computer would set a code, neither of those are happening and the timing is correct, we think it could be the sparkplug wires, what do you think?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #129

    Aug 7, 2008, 05:28 PM
    Don't have any other ideas--just go over everything possible and establish a "baseline" of what you know is good.
    CoB_hatecrew's Avatar
    CoB_hatecrew Posts: 55, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #130

    Oct 29, 2008, 12:22 PM

    Well I replaced the sparkplugs and wires, and it ran, but still idles up and down, but if it runs for a few minutes, the idle settles into normal operation, but if you hit the gas it bogs down and starts to idle up and down again, we thought maybe a gasket but we sprayed carb cleaner around all the intake manny, and it didn't pick it up. I was recently told that the programmed fuel injection could be causing these symptoms, any ideas?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
    Uber Member
     
    #131

    Oct 29, 2008, 12:27 PM

    Have you cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, including hoses, and throttle body? I doubt the problem is with the PGM-FI system. It's likely something more basic.
    PRPPRIMO's Avatar
    PRPPRIMO Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #132

    Oct 29, 2008, 12:32 PM
    I agree with TXGM, clean or replace your IACV(clean it first). I would also run a fuel pressure test. (it should be around 40 psi) Does the car run good otherwise? Accelerates smoothly?
    jeffrey383's Avatar
    jeffrey383 Posts: 6, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #133

    Jan 3, 2009, 02:21 AM

    Check for the "click" sound of the main relay under the left side of the dash. If the fuel filter has not been changed in years change it, or a clogged filter will cause the pump to fail prematuerlly.
    Mazeee's Avatar
    Mazeee Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #134

    Feb 21, 2009, 12:48 PM
    Heyy... I have a 1990 civic car won't stay running checked and replaced main relay... the car starts for a couple of minutes then shuts down... then you can't hear the fuel pump come on... if you let it sit for a bit then it will start then stop again...
    bmoore2156's Avatar
    bmoore2156 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #135

    Feb 21, 2009, 05:08 PM

    Does it have spark when it decides to not start?

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

91 Honda Civic won't Start Or Turnover [ 33 Answers ]

I have had this car for about 6 years. Shortly after we got it (6 years ago) we drove to California from Utah. In Reno when we stopped for gas (had been driving for a long time in the heat with AC blasting and temp gauge was near red when we stopped) and then went to start the car. Nothing, no...

92 honda civic won't start PLEASE HELP [ 22 Answers ]

I live in LA and I have never had a problem. It has been raining non stop down pour for 17 days. Last night I went out and my car wouldn't start. It turns over but no fire. Battery seems fine. AAA came and got it started by adding fuel shaking it, I don't know what... He told me to keep it running,...

1990 Honda Civic won't Start [ 9 Answers ]

Hello, I am totally stumped with this, I have a 1990 Honda Civic with a 1989 Acura Integra Engine in it (Engine Swap), and it won't start. Nothing works, the lights, the radio, hazards, defogger absolutely nothing. Of course your thinking the battery is dead but I checked the battery and it...

84 Honda Civic won't Start? [ 3 Answers ]

I think the Battery terminals touched while I was fitting a new battery in & shorted out a fuse, but I can't find which 1 it blew, Can someone help me out here??

92 honda civic won't start [ 4 Answers ]

I was looking for a place I could find some answers to my problem... and I found this forum.. anyway.. My 92 honda civic has an interesting problem. At one point it would barely start.. thinking it was sparkplugs,wires,rotor.. I replaced them all.. seemed to work greatly.. lacking money at...


View more questions Search