We have replaced the both element's in the freezer of our side by side so now the bottom element that keep's the refigerator cold is blowen again what could be causeing that to go out so quickly? After buying one just 3 month's ago!

I am having same problem but we noticed the flap that allows the cool air on the fridge side is not opening could this be the problem seeing the fridge side keeps calling for more cold air, would that make the freezer freeze up?

I have the same fridge model number, GSS22KGMCWW. I've replaced the mother board, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, fresh food temp sensor and checked the evaporator thermistor but the fridge is still frosting up every two weeks. Any suggestions?

Will send another post with specific model -- but generally we had a GE frost-free side by side -- on freezer side in back slightly below middle -- starts frosting up and then fridge become warm -- unplug, allow to defrost and then turn back on -- depending on weather conditions -- will last from about three to five weeks -- is it worth repairing? -- service calls are not cheap

Your problem is either in the defrost system or the fan is bad; more than likely it's the defrost system. If it is a normal type it has a defrost timer which turns off the fan in freezer and the compressor and energizes the defrost heater until the terminator t-stat turns it off or the timer turns it off, whichever one is first. It's a very straightforward system that is easy to work on. The electronic ones are totally different, but normally when they go bad only the heater and terminator needs to be replaced. Just remove the cover to coils in freezer to access heater and terminator. Don't forget to clean the coils under unit, too. Many times the timer is under the unit near the coils or near the t-stat in the refrigerator section. Let unit thoroughly defrost before working on it. After removing the cover to coils you will see wires leading to a heater attached to the coils. On a side-by-side the heater is a glass rod with an element inside that you can see if it is bad; on a freezer on top model it is aluminum and wrapped around the coil that will burn apart often. There is a defrost t-stat attached by wire to one side of the heater and clipped onto the coils. It is round and has two wires, one to the heater and one to the power from defrost timer. With refrigerator unplugged turn timer until you hear it click and stop. Have wires unplugged to defrost heater and defrost t-stat and get the plug and the wire supplying power to heater. Put meter on ohms and put one lead on wire supplying power to heater and one to plug prong and if timer is good you will read about zero on both prongs – one to each wire supplying heater power. Then put one lead on each side of heater and if you have no continuity you need a new heater. Replace heater and terminator together and be very careful when replacing it, especially on the freezer on top model because if you bend the wrong thing you will break one of the delicate capillary tubes and lose all of the Freon which will ruin the unit. If the timer is bad you will need to replace it with one that matches. You can test it before you take anything apart by advancing the timer until the refrigerator turns off. Then see if the heater defrosts the unit and then brings the unit back on; if it does not then all you may need is a new timer, but the parts are cheap, so if you need to replace the heater and terminator you should replace the timer and keep the old one for an emergency. The back side of the timer has a plastic one-way screw that advances the timer.. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpghttp://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpghttp://cdn.appliancepartspros.com/im...10896_01_l.jpg

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Originally Posted by Ed Balsam

I have the same fridge model number, GSS22KGMCWW. I've replaced the mother board, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, fresh food temp sensor and checked the evaporator thermistor but the fridge is still frosting up every two weeks. Any suggestions?

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You need to get a meter and learn how to use it. You cannot fix appliances that way any more. Look at these: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/How...e%20Manual.pdf
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/GE_...ide_refrig.pdf

I also have a black G E side by side frost free with ice/water in door, and it TOO constantly freezes up on inside of freezer, cause fridge not to get too cold. I HAVE already replaced the mother board and defroster switch with NEW ones! Still the problem continues! I only run each side on number 5 as recommened. What in the world is wrong with this thing? What else could I possible have to replace? All door seals are tight and good too, and all dust has been cleaned from everything. What now?

You only needed to replace the defrost heater which is between $20-50. I bet I could find the problem is a minute or two with a meter. Never, never replace a part unless you have tested it first, guessing is not testing. The only problem seen with most GE refrigerators is a faulty seal on freezer door. To correct the problem you have to remove the door and lay it flat in the sun and remove all screws around outside and inside openings, then remove inner liner and clean around all edges and let stay in sun all day to dry well. Then seal around edges with clear GE Silicone caulk. Make sure you have the good stuff that smells like acetic acid. Put it all back together and seal any air leaks in that door.