Vehicle 1998 Volvo V40 T4.

Occasionally, when I turned the key, I only get a single click and no turn over. It appeared to be a parasitic battery drain. I hooked up the test light in series with the negative post and cable. Pulled each fuse on at a time, and the light never went out. Hhhmmm... Next day, no problem.

I replaced the battery since it was old. Seemed worth the time/effort. I went for several weeks without a problem.

Yesterday, same thing. Only a click. I hooked it up via jump cables to the "good car" and initially, it wouldn't turn over... just a click. After a few attempts and about 20 minutes on the cables, it finally started... very strongly. It acts as if a switch has been turned off and on.

So... is it possible for there to be a problem inside the starter solenoid that is causing it to drain the battery... yet still work whenever it feels like it? Do solenoids fail intermittently?

See if these suggestions help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post235560

#1 might be the problem.

I have replaced the negative cable and ensured a clean, tight connection.

I now need to work from the positive terminal to the starter, etc. and do the same.

I can hear the relay clicking inside the underhood fusebox... so things seem okay there. And... given the test I performed with the test light, then it seems it has to be something without a fuse... like the starter solenoid.


I just wondered if the solenoid itself could fail one moment and work the next?

Actually... I've spent an hour or so looking over the repair manual.

What do you think about the idea that the ignition coil might be failing intermittently? I was driving down the street one day and the car shut off, but it restarted immediately. Maybe that was a signal?

If the starter motor doesn't crank consistently, then the problem is likely with the battery, starter motor, or solenoid. If the starter motor cranks, but the engine doesn't start, then I would have the Ignition Control Module and coil checked out at AutoZone for free. I would also have the ICM and coil tested/replaced if the car died on you, while you were driving.