I just installed an acrylic shower base and an initial test reveals a leak between the drain body and the drain pipe. The drain body just presses over the drain pipe and squeezes through the rubber caulking gasket, so there is nothing to tighten internally once the drain pipe is in. Can anyone tell me what the problem might be?

One of two things. Either you failed to install the seal under the drain lip correctly or the caulking gasket's on cocked and not seated. You didn't put the rubber gasket under the lid did you? Cheers, tom

Thank you for your reply. I installed the drain 'y exactly as indicated in the diagram. The rubber gasket is under the base between the fiber gasket and nut. Kindly elaborate on your two points:

What is meant by "seal under the drain lip?" Are you referring to the silicone sealant? If so, are you saying I may not have used enough silicone?

As for the caulking gasket put on incorrectly, is there a tool or procedure to properly seat it or is it just by trial and error? I honestly didn't feel comfortable that it was seated all the way down, but I also didn't want to risk damaging it.

Could you tell me (looking down into the drain) where the top edge of the drain pipe should end up? In other words, should it meet with the caulking gasket edge, slightly below, or above?

Finally, could the tightening of the nut affect the leak I described?

Thanks again.

As for the caulking gasket put on incorrectly, is there a tool or procedure to properly seat it or is it just by trial and error? I honestly didn't feel comfortable that it was seated all the way down, but I also didn't want to risk damaging it.

I usually leave the pipe about a 1/4" proud of the top of the gasket and then use a 2" plastic coupling slipped over the protuberance (ABS or PVC will do), a block of wood and a mallet to fully seat the gasket over the 2" pipe -- Liberally coating the gasket with silicone sealant before installation helps to lubricate and seal the gasket.

After the gasket has bottomed out, I use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the pipe off internally and flush with the top of the gasket.

Thanks. I will use your method to seat the no-caulk gasket, however I think I will pass on trying to use a dremel to trim the remaining pipe, as I don't know if I could do it without damaging something else. While I have the drain pipe out, I think I will pre-trim it to the top edge of the gasket.

By the way, you suggest using silicone sealant for lubricant? The instructions that came with my drain do not call for any lubricant, but I could see using something like soap or WD40 to help slide the gasket over the pipe (which I didn't do.) What do you do, coat the inside and outside of the gasket before sliding it over the pipe?

Thanks. I will use your method to seat the no-caulk gasket, however I think I will pass on trying to use a dremel to trim the remaining pipe, as I don't know if I could do it without damaging something else. While I have the drain pipe out, I think I will pre-trim it to the top edge of the gasket.

You won't know the correct height until the gasket is fully seated.

And the whole idea behind leaving the pipe proud of the gasket is to allow the coupling being used to seat the gasket to slide over the pipe to center it for equal downward pressure when tapping on it with the block of wood and mallet.


By the way, you suggest using silicone sealant for lubricant? The instructions that came with my drain do not call for any lubricant, but I could see using something like soap or WD40 to help slide the gasket over the pipe (which I didn't do.)

The silicone sealant both lubricates and SEALS the gasket.

An acrylic shower base will flex during normal usage, which means the gasket will also move up and down the riser -- The sealant fills in any gaps in the rubber and acts as additional insurance.

WD-40 or similar lubricants aren't very good for rubber, by the way, nor will it harden and fill in any imperfections in the rubber gasket.

Got you. I guess it's off to buy a Dremel. Should I coat the entire ID and OD ridges of the gasket with silicone?

Also, in the event I have trouble down the road, I was wondering if there is another type of shower drain assembly that works better. I have seen a brass type, which is very similar to the No-Caulk PVC version with one exception: The inside of the drain body is threaded instead of smooth and this accepts a ring, which is threaded tightly into the drain. I'm not sure what the advantage of the threaded insert is, so I would appreciate some feedback. Thanks.

Got you. I guess it's off to buy a Dremel. Should I coat the entire ID and OD ridges of the gasket with silicone?

Also, in the event I have trouble down the road, I was wondering if there is another type of shower drain assembly that works better. I have seen a brass type, which is very similar to the No-Caulk PVC version with one exception: The inside of the drain body is threaded instead of smooth and this accepts a ring, which is threaded tightly into the drain. I'm not sure what the advantage of the threaded insert is, so I would appreciate some feedback. Thanks.

I'm partial to the latter style of drain, the upper brass ring holds the rubber gasket in place and prevents it from riding up through normal usage -- If it's still an option at this point, I would suggest changing it out.

The same gasket installation guidelines previously mentioned still apply, though.

Thanks. I will take your advice and replace it with a brass drain assembly.