I have a new home with a totally unfinished basement.
The plumbing (drains & vents) were roughed in by the builder.
I want to install a toilet for temporary use while doing framing, etc
Down there. At a later date I will probably install ceramic tile on that
Bathroom floor. Presently, there is a capped 4 inch pvc with the wrap around it sticking up out of the concrete floor. I've read enough posts to know that I need to cut the pvc & install a flange bolted to the floor w/tapcons. My question is, should I obtain some scrap pieces of tile to be placed underneath the flange and/or toilet so that all is at the correct height
For later?? Any help or advice is gladly welcomed!

I have a new home with a totally unfinished basement.
The plumbing (drains & vents) were roughed in by the builder.
I want to install a toilet for temporary use while doing framing, etc
down there. At a later date I will probably install ceramic tile on that
bathroom floor. Presently, there is a capped 4 inch pvc with the wrap around it sticking up out of the concrete floor. I've read enough posts to know that I need to cut the pvc & install a flange bolted to the floor w/tapcons. My question is, should I obtain some scrap pieces of tile to be placed underneath the flange and/or toilet so that all is at the correct height
for later??? Any help or advice is gladly welcomed!


If you install the flange off the floor you will need to shim the bowl. I would mount the flange on the floor and after I tiled I would reinstall the bowl using a wax seal with a funnel for added protection. Less hassle all the way around. Regards, Tom

What Speedball said. When and if you tile take the toilet back off and tile up to the flange. Then put the toilet back on. If you have raised the floor substantialy use a large wax ring on the toilet with funnel and/or a spacer designed for this situation like in the link below.

http://www.plumbest.com/searchenginevisitor.html?http%3A//www.plumbest.com/catalog/e96.htm


Lowe's has most of these in stock.

Tom

Thanks, I appreciate the advice & expertise! One more question. What is the easiest way to cut off the 4" PVC at the correct length to install the inside mount flange? Do I need to worry about how straight the cut is?

Thanks, I appreciate the advice & expertise! One more question. What is the easiest way to cut off the 4" PVC at the correct length to install the inside mount flange? Do I need to worry about how straight the cut is?

We use a Saws -All (reciprocating saw), cut level with the floor. Do not leave any peeking out. This will raise the flange up from the floor level and cause your toilet to rock and need shimming. Good luck, Tom

I need to add a 1/2" copper "T" fitting in the middle of a 8ft or so straight
run. There isn't any wiggle room at either end of this section of pipe because it already has other "T" fitting going to faucets, etc. How can I add my new "T" and get it go back together without un-soldering several other joints?

I need to add a 1/2" copper "T" fitting in the middle of a 8ft or so straight
run. There isn't any wiggle room at either end of this section of pipe because it already has other "T" fitting going to faucets, etc. How can I add my new "T" and get it go back together without un-soldering several other joints?

No problem if you have a little spring in the pipes. Simply purchase a 1/2" compression tee. Make your cuts with a set of copper cutters, (or mini-cutters it it's a tight place), mark the copper at the place in the tee where they will seat and not at the ends of the tee. Install ferrules and compression nuts on the pipe ends. Now slip one end of the tee on the pipe and spring the other end out far enough so you can fit the other end of the tee in place. Tighten the compression nuts and you're in business. Good luck, Tom

Thanks again for the excellent free advice to use a "compression T"
Where I have very limited pipe movement to add an in-line T fitting.
In looking at copper plumbing parts I see there is a "no stop coupling".
I realize I'd have to sweat 4 joints versus 2, but would that work OK in this same scenario where I have very limited pipe movement to insert or add my "T"?

Thanks again for the excellent free advice to use a "compression T"
where I have very limited pipe movement to add an in-line T fitting.
In looking at copper plumbing parts I see there is a "no stop coupling".
I realize I'd have to sweat 4 joints versus 2, but would that work ok in this same scenario where I have very limited pipe movement to insert or add my "T" ??
Yes! That would work. They call them "slip couplings". I was under the impression you didn't want to have to evacuate the water and solder the joint when I suggested the compression fitting. Cheers, Tom