How tight do you tighten up on the nut on the drain ? I have a brass shower drain and while I tightened up the nut with my channel lock pliers the neoprene washer slipped off on one side of the rubber gasket . Well I am taking it back and getting a new one , but again how tight do I tighten it ? Thanks .

There are several drains Sioux Chief makes. Can you post a picture of the drain in question - or at least post a model number so we can look it up ?

Back to you

Milo

Hi Wjdski

The neoprene washer and the rubber gasket should not come in contact in any way. If I understand your issue and the strainer you are using the neoprene washer would go on top (under flange) and the rubber washer would go on the underside of the shower. However, I never use the neoprene washer... actually throw those away.

Instead, I would suggest using a mold-resistant silicone caulking under the flange of the strainer and then use the neoprene washer on the underside between the nut and the base of the shower. There should also be an anti.- friction washer that will go between the nut and the neoprene washer (see image)... this keeps the neoprene washer from slipping out like yours did the last time.

48911

I know your drain is brass, but the plastic drain shown should be like your drain and should be installed as I said...discard neoprene washer (not in picture I posted, 'cause it shouldn't be used!!) Oh, and by the way, the nut should be tightened very tight!!

Post back... let me know your thought...

Mark

I am sorry I meant the Anti friction gasket was the one that distorted on one side , almost like it was stretched out . I used silicone under the drain flange then on the back side of the pan I used the rubber gasket and then the anti friction gasket , tightened it and then in for some reason like peeled the anti friction gasket off the rubber gasket on one side .

You probably tightened it too much. Also, maybe some silicone got on the gaskets, and that will certainly help it to slip out. Use Plumber's Putty on drain body flange and no silicone or putty under the pan. Do not over-tighten. Watch the gasket as you are tightening the lock nut. Once you see the rubber gasket or Anti-Friction gasket being squeezed out, stop. Your drain is installed

Hope that helps

Milo

It sounds like you did everything right... may have just overtightened the assembly nut.

So, back to your original question, "
How tight do you tighten up on the nut on the drain"?

My answer is that you tighten the nut slightly less than you tightened it last time. You don't need to SUPER crank on the nut...just get a good firm tightening of the nut and then let the silicone set the needed amount of time and you should be fine!

If by chance you find that the anti.-friction washer is the issue you could always make your own snug fitting anti.-friction washer out of firm cardboard or even a thin plastic plate (or similar slippery flat material), right? I've done it a couple times on lavatory drain anti.-friction washers...the supplied cardboard anti.-friction washers were just so loose fitting that they spit out the side of the drain assembly nut like happened to you here. I made a better, tighter fitting anti.-friction washer out of a plastic plate for one and a painter's bucket side for another. I have also made a number of cardboard anti.-friction washers when I couldn't believe that a manufacturer didn't supply one with their particular drain assembly!!

Anyway, hopefully you will be all set from here! If you need anything else just let us know.

Hi Milo

I don't like putty for shower strainer applications UNLESS the shower pan is properly bedded, so I just wanted to pop in and ask Wjdski if he bedded his shower pan in mortar, structolite, or even construction adhesive if the manufacturer so recommended. If Wjdski bedded his shower pan properly then I certainly se no issue with the putty, for sure. However, if the shower pan is free floating and has any flexibility in the floor I would STRONGLY recommend sticking with the silicone caulking!

Of course, I think we would both want to tell Wjdski to remove the shower pan and follow manufacturer recommendations if he has any flex in the floor!

Hey! I'm just thinking out loud!

Thanks guys!

Thank you all for your answers ! Just one note I can't use plumbers putty ( Onyx shower pan ) . I am placing this on 3/4 " plywood subfloor on my 2nd story , this is why I am so cautious about the drain . I have also used self leveler on the area for the pan . So I will take your advice and back off a tad on tightening the nut .