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Robirdman
Mar 14, 2005, 09:56 AM
I have a Climatrol Furnace, and it stopped working. I called a Heating Co, and the technician said that that the motor was bad, it's and old unit with Climatrol no longer in business. I might be able to find a used motor, but I really need a new furnace.
After he left I was reaching in and I was able to turn freely what must be the squirrel cage mentioned in another post. Later I was showing a friend my problem and I reached in and now there was some resistance, and then suddenly the motor sprang to life. I felt that if I only I could lubricate the motor, the problem might be solved, but I couldn't figure how, as I couldn't see much with the housing around the motor. Later I used a mirror and sprayed a little WD40 on the end of the shaft.
The furnace worked fine, with the motor blowing on and off the rest of the day and all night and into the next day. That night I wasn't home, and when I came back the next day, the motor was no longer working. Like the first time, I detected the smell of a motor that was stuck. Quite a few times at intervals I tried to start it as before, but each time there was never any resistance and the squirrel cage spun freely.
Now the temperature has dropped to 55F. I haven't noticed the whole furnace igniting, just what seems like the pilot.
I'm wondering what is involved in replacing the motor (of removing it to try to lubricate or test) that I can't even see in the metal housing. Turn off gas, electricity etc? I'm wondering why the whole burner no longer seems to even ignite, though the upstairs thermostat is way up.
Speedy replies would be greatly welcome as it is getting colder.

Robirdman
Mar 14, 2005, 10:33 AM
I just noticed that I could add this.

labman
Mar 14, 2005, 12:03 PM
Furnaces are wired up so the blower comes on after the burner has been on long enough to heat up the air in the furnace. If the blower doesn't come on when it should, the gas will go off. If your thermostat has a fan only setting I would use it to verify the motor won't run. You may have developed additional problems with the fan controls.

I couldn't get the picture you posted to open. Older furnaces had a belt running from the motor to the fan. The fan is usually sort of a drum with vanes around the outside edge, like a cage a squirrel could run in for exercise. Newer furnaces have the motor inside the fan. The fan is mounted to a shaft at one end of the motor. The motor is supported at the other end. You need to shut the power to the furnace off, but not the gas before working on it. You may need to remove one side of the furnace to get at the bolts holding the motor. Check the motor and any separate fan shaft for little oil cups with caps, or grease fittings. Many motors use sealed bearings. If you get the motor out, you may be able to take it apart and add a little oil or grease to the bearings. Might work for a while once you have it back together.

The motor may be a relative standard item you could find at an electrical shop. Also see www.meci.com.

See what you can find and post back.

Robirdman
Mar 15, 2005, 03:10 PM
Thanks very much for the advice. Since posting, I found that my brother-in-law had a friend who would advise me without ripping off. He was going to try to fix things, by replacing the motor, but when we couldn't get the pilot light on, he said the gas valve was bad also. These 2 items alone would cost perhaps $500, and with a 30+ year old furnace, and not knowing what else might be on the verge, it would be better to install a new one which he said he would for less than $1200 for a Carrier.

labman
Mar 15, 2005, 05:03 PM
May be just as well. The newer furnaces are more efficient than the older ones. The very most efficient ones may have such a high initial cost and upkeep, that they may not be worth the money.

Robirdman
Mar 21, 2005, 02:44 AM
A new furnace was installed for $1150. It keeps making a loud humming or droning sound though which doesn't seem normal.

labman
Mar 21, 2005, 07:56 AM
The new furnace could be moving more air. This could create the noise. You might be able to trace it to somewhere a duct is a little loose. If you can fasten the duct down solid, the noise may go away. If the air movement seems excessive, whoever installed the furnace may be able to regulate the blower speed.

Robirdman
Mar 21, 2005, 07:40 PM
Actually this noise is most noticeable when the blower is off, as the air noise covers it somewhat. This noise never stops though no air is blowing.

labman
Mar 21, 2005, 08:57 PM
Could be the control transformer. See if you can find it. If you can, hold your hand on it and see that changes the sound. If so, try to have it replaced.

macx351
Dec 2, 2010, 08:21 AM
Look for information on the blower to see if there's a make or model # on it, then check online at the numerous discount HVAC suppliers and on eBay. When my inducer went bad a few years ago and before I realized they were available online, I paid over $200 for one at the dealer. Then I found them
All over the place online, and even for under $100 on eBay. If you can't find specific info on yours, you can email the supply places or the eBay seller and they often can look it up for you and tell you what you need and if they have one. You might also be able to compare yours to eBay pictures.

dan12
Nov 10, 2011, 12:41 PM
What if you have to zones in your house. Do you need two furnace motors or just a one with a valve got any ideas