My son is was going to clean out the trap on his bathroom sink. Looks to me like the tailpiece broke. He would like to go with plastic, but not sure where to go from here. Suggestions?

BTW, the second pic is of another sink that is assembled and working in another bathroom. Thought it might be useful.

I'd flip the pics rightside up if I could figure out how.

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A couple of extra pics.

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Plastic won't corrode. Would it be code in your son's area?

Plastic won't corrode. Would it be code in your son's area?

It would be as far as I know. At this point he's open to anything that is an answer. I'm no plumber, but I've done a fair amount of work in that area. I've not seen anything quite like what he has.

It would be as far as I know. At this point he's open to anything that is an answer. I'm no plumber, but I've done a fair amount of work in that area. I've not seen anything quite like what he has.
My husband replaced our bathroom sink metal pipes with plastic. So far, so good.

My husband replaced our bathroom sink metal pipes with plastic. So far, so good.

I'd love to use plastic as well, but can it be used with the existing brass fitting?

I'd love to use plastic as well, but can it be used with the existing brass fitting?
Husband says it's a compression fit with the plastic. Be sure to take the parts to the hardware store to check size and fit.

I would also suggest a banded Fernco or Mission type coupler as an alternative.

https://www.fernco.com/img/products/plumbing/shielded-couplings/sc-strong-back-main.jpg

As long as it has proper banding, it is generally code safe, check for your specific area. The banding is to give it support over the years, and is generally stainless steel for corrosion resistance. They also come in reducers/expanders for differing pipe sizes.

I would also suggest a banded Fernco or Mission type coupler as an alternative.

https://www.fernco.com/img/products/plumbing/shielded-couplings/sc-strong-back-main.jpg

As long as it has proper banding, it is generally code safe, check for your specific area. The banding is to give it support over the years, and is generally stainless steel for corrosion resistance. They also come in reducers/expanders for differing pipe sizes.

I thought about that as well, but I don't think he has enough clearance at the top. It's only about a half inch or so to the old attachment for the drain "stopper" assembly.

Plastic should be fine, PVC. Everbilt 1-1/2 in. x 12 in. PVC Tailpiece Extension-C9793A - The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-x-12-in-PVC-Tailpiece-Extension-C9793A/205154109) While he is at it the drain arm is broken. That little white ball is missing the piece that reaches inside and moves the stopper.

Plastic should be fine, PVC. Everbilt 1-1/2 in. x 12 in. PVC Tailpiece Extension-C9793A - The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-x-12-in-PVC-Tailpiece-Extension-C9793A/205154109) While he is at it the drain arm is broken. That little white ball is missing the piece that reaches inside and moves the stopper.

The stopper hasn't worked in years. The part that is still there is only to prevent leaking.

Thanks for the reply. I think that's what he will go with.

Fpor $2.50 he can replace that arm. POP-UP CNTR ROD ASSEMBLY 456136 from Hipp Modern Builders Supply at SHOP.COM (http://www.shop.com/Pop+up+Cntr+Rod+Assembly+456136-1383193049-p+.xhtml?sourceid=298&gclid=CP7S7PLL-c4CFUUvgQodOxUG8w)

I don't think I understand the responses to the thread.

The tailpipe of the present drain assembly is broken. While you may or may not be able to get the threaded portion up inside the tee out and you may or may not be able to find a replacement tailpipe, it certainly isn't worth the effort.

Simply replace the drain assembly, cost should be in the $12 to $15 range.


I'm no plumber, but I've done a fair amount of work in that area. I've not seen anything quite like what he has.

John,
Are you saying your son doesn't know how to get the old assembly out?
Looks like standard drain assembly to me.

Am I missing something here?

Thanks, HK. I think that is what he intends to do. With the tailpiece broken off, I would think that is the only option.

He was unsure how to get the old one out until he checked it out on YouTube.

He was unsure how to get the old one out
Well, he should have asked Dad.
When sons are 16, Dad doesn't know anything. When sons get to be about 30, Dad knows everything.

Indeed!

Yup.. standard metal pop-up assembly... simply replace with new METAL pop-up assembly and he'll be all set.

FYI: I don't usually install the cheap plastic pop-up assemblies. Although convenient and non-corrosive they are much harder for the average DIYer to manage to get water tight seal.

Good day!

Thanks, Mass. I'll pass that on.

Agree with the posts above. The fine-thread tail piece broke off at the threads. Threads are still inside the pipe. Try to take them out with skinny screwdriver. If you manage to get them out, get new tail piece and screw it in. Use teflon tape on the threads. If the female threads are damaged, you will have to do as suggested above - replace entire pop-up drain assembly. Or you can get 1 1/4" rubber coupling and use it to join tail piece with the existing drain. This may be easier for you to do.

Plastic trap is fine, as long as it is inside the cabinet.

Milo

I think he has already replaced it. Thanks for the info. I encouraged him to go plastic, but I think he is using metal.

We thought about the coupling, but he only had a half inch or so to "grab" on the original drain assembly before running into where the pop up arm screwed in.

He ends up purchasing a new tailpiece. Tapes it and screws it in. He has done this twice. It still has a very slight leak at that joint. He says you have to run water two or three minutes to notice it. Retape and try it again?