I've got a 2008 Chrysler Town and Country Touring Edition with 3.8L V6. I changed the back brakes today, pads, rotors. I had to open the bleeder screws to turn in the caliper pistons with the tool I rented from the parts store. I bled the brakes at all 4 wheels when done, and refilled the brake master cylinder as needed. However, when I start the van I have to pump the brakes in order to stop, rather then just lightly tapping the pedal to get braking. Have I missed a step, or could there be something else wrong with my brake system to cause this weak brake pedal? Also, how do I know whether I need to change the rubber brake hose at the wheel connected to the caliper?

Try bleeding the brakes again. With an ABS system in your van, you may need a scan tool. Google " bleeding brakes on a _______".Discusses ABS bleeding.

Sounds like you have air in the system. Using a one-man brake bleeder tool, such as a Cal-Van 247, you should easily be able to regain a firm pedal.

I doubt that you need to replace the brake hose, unless you damaged it, because your vehicle is not that old.

I wound up replacing the brake hose on the drivers side rear because it was leaking fluid which I didn't see at first glance. I then bled the brakes again. I get a real firm pedal if the engine is off, but once I start the vehicle it goes back to mush, but the brakes are stopping the vehicle but not as reactively as I'd like. Is there a way to tell for sure if the power brake booster is failing?


Sounds like you have air in the system. Using a one-man brake bleeder tool, such as a Cal-Van 247, you should easily be able to regain a firm pedal.

I doubt that you need to replace the brake hose, unless you damaged it, because your vehicle is not that old.

Always support the caliper after removal, to prevent damaging the brake hose. I use a piece of copper tubing, shaped like a letter "S." You can also use a bungee cord.

Did you tighten the new brake hose with flare or line wrenches? They prevent nut distortion and help ensure a leak-free connection. Did you bleed the brakes in this sequence: RR, LF, LR, and RF? If you weren't experiencing booster problems before, I doubt that that's the problem.

I purchased front pads today, also a vacuum pump bleeder kit, so I hope to get this resolved soon I hope.


Always support the caliper after removal, to prevent damaging the brake hose. I use a piece of copper tubing, shaped like a letter "S." You can also use a bungee cord.

Did you tighten the new brake hose with flare or line wrenches? They prevent nut distortion and help ensure a leak-free connection. Did you bleed the brakes in this sequence: RR, LF, LR, and RF? If you weren't experiencing booster problems before, I doubt that that's the problem.

Make sure you remove and clean the caliper pins and caliper bracket slides; then, lubricate the caliper pins, caliper bracket slides, and brake pad backing plate friction (slide) points with silicone grease. It's best to use premium ceramic pads; e.g., Wagner ThermoQuiet, which come with a lifetime warranty. Ensure that you remove the cap to the master cylinder reservoir, before pressing the piston into the caliper.