My 1998 honda accord will not start.it shut down on the road.I towed it home and tried starting it but still will not start.I also replaced ignition coil but still the same.please help.

Is your timing belt broke? Actually that's one thing you better hope DIDN'T happen.

The rotor inside the distributor turns so this means the timing belt is good and the car cranks but it will not start.

That's good. Bad expensive things happen when a timing belt breaks on a Honda.

Does it have spark when its cranking?

I tested if it got spark but it is not

Check your fuses first..second. do you have or know anyone with a code reader to see what the ECU reports. Its an ODBII car that will have extensive self diagnostics.

Thank you I'll ask someone to borrow a code reader

I suspect the Ignition Control Module (ICM) failed, which is not allowing the plugs to spark. Be sure to coat the back of the new ICM, located inside the distributor, with silicone heat transfer compound. It will be mounted on a heat sink.

But the igniter is new

What codes are the computer giving you?

I used my cousins code scanner but there were no codes and he suspects it's a wiring problem

It is likely the Crankshaft Position Sensor is bad or there's a problem with the distributor. If you are using an aftermarket distributor housing, get rid of it. Only go OEM, if you replace the distributor housing (reuse your ICM and coil). Recheck all of your work, since you have been into the distributor. Ensure connections are clean and tight. I would also replace the rotor and cap, if they have not been changed in 60,000 miles.

I replaced the whole distributor 1 month ago. I used oem distributor also the crankshaft position sensor is working because the injectors are receiving fuel and when I took out the spark plugs they smelled like gasoline.

I'm curious why its not throwing codes...

I had a 1996 Saturn that threw a code if it so much as had a single misfire. Which actually happened a couple times.

Lets check the obvious and the easy to verify....pull the cap off and check the rotor....see it didn't come loose and self destruct.

The Civic has a set screw to hold it in (at least the B16A1 does)..and it WILL do that if the screw was forgotten or it works its way out.

If that happened you will need both a new cap and a new rotor.

You replaced a lot that you did not initially tell us;i.e., new ICM and OEM distributor. Is there anything else? After you installed the new distributor, did you use a timing light to set the timing? You may have the timing too far retarded. Try loosening the three 12mm mounting bolts and rotating the distributor counter-clockwise (CCW), to advance the timing. After you get the engine started and warmed-up, set the timing "spot-on" with a strobe light. Retighten the three 12mm bolts.

Did you apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM?

... and clarify what was done BEFORE the car shut down and what was done AFTER that happened. It actually does matter to help point you in the right direction. Everything done after can be suspect and a cause. Certain things done before as well.

The car ran very good but one day it just shut down and will not start.I did not set the timing.how do you do it.and if it is a timing problem why isn't the coil receiving spark

The coil doesn't receive spark, it generates the spark when its supplied power correctly. That's a function of the ECU and the ignition control module (the readers digest version of what happens). So nothing was replaced after it shut down on you? We are trying to eliminate and other problems that might have accidentally been compounded.

One of the first things you do when you have a problem, or a new problem... is review everything that was done recently.

I replaced the whole distributor and main relay.

The car ran very good but one day it just shut down and will not start.I did not set the timing.how do you do it.and if it is a timing problem why isn't the coil receiving spark

If the distributer wasn't loose when it shut down... then that's not your problem.

But to set timing you need a timing light... and you look for marks on a tab next to the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft. When the strobe flashes you look to see where the line is indicating.

Most timing light one cable goes to the battery, one to ground the other clips on a spark plug end, but since these are recessed you clip on the distributer end of the number one plug one after folding up the boot.

You read it while someone is cranking the engine.

there is several marks...and you need a certain one which will be a certain number of degrees before top dead center. You need the spec on that. I don't know what it is from memory.

If you replaced the distributor, and did not place index marks on the distributor and mounting bracket, then the timing is likely way off. Most shade tree mechanics end up retarding the timing too much. Follow my previous instructions on how to advance the timing, after placing index marks on the distributor and mounting bracket. The engine should start, if you do this. If you didn't apply the silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM, however, you may have ruined it. I can set the timing on most Honda's of your vintage very close by ear.

Failure to replace the rotor and distributor cap every 60,000 can cause high resistance in the secondary, resulting in high voltage discharging through the ICM or coil. Electricity will take the easiest path to ground. This is how many ICMs and coils are destroyed on Hondas, even if they are new components.

Their were problems with the Honda Ignition Switch around that year. Seen so often I would almost bet on it.
Go to The12vol.com, select Vehicle wiring, year and model, it will tell you the color of the Bat+ wire, Ignition wire, and Start wire, Test at Ignition switch, Little plastic cover will need to be removed, good luck.