View Full Version : Need help diagnosing a leak please...
diyer2009
Jul 15, 2015, 01:42 PM
Hi all, I have a leak that I'm pretty sure is coming from the supply line that is feeding an 2nd floor toilet. I shut off the valve at the toilet but it's still leaking below. I realize there's probably still water in the supply line so is it just a matter of waiting? Can I further isolate it any?
Thanks much in advance.
ma0641
Jul 15, 2015, 02:12 PM
Can you see water running down the fill pipe or around the angle stop? If not, you likely have a piping leak inside the floor or wall.
diyer2009
Jul 15, 2015, 02:17 PM
Yes I believe it's inside the wall/floor BC from below I can see water dripping along the copper pipe but I want to be 100% so is there a way to further isolate it?
ma0641
Jul 15, 2015, 02:27 PM
Make sure the angle stop compression nut is tight. If you cannot feel wet on your hands, above the floor, it is below the floor. Not a good sign.
diyer2009
Jul 15, 2015, 02:33 PM
Make sure the angle stop compression nut is tight. If you cannot feel wet on your hands, above the floor, it is below the floor. Not a good sign.
There is no wetness above ground. And from where the supply line comes out of the wall is totally dry. So I'm pretty sure the leak is in the copper pipe in the wall that feeds the supply line to the toilet. But as I said I want to be 100% sure. So is there a way to isolate the this section of pipe for the leak?
massplumber2008
Jul 15, 2015, 05:18 PM
No, most likely there is no way to isolate this pipe. Perhaps there is a cold water shut off valve for that bathroom somewhere in the basement, but if that is the case it will shut off cold water to the entire bathroom. Otherwise, you could try shutting off the cold water main supply to the house (at water meter or pump) and see if the drip slows or stops. If water stops flowing it is time to open the ceiling and see what is happening upstairs!
Mark
diyer2009
Jul 15, 2015, 05:24 PM
Thx Mark. I think the only choice I have is to shut off the main to the house (condo). I already have the ceiling open below and I do see the drip along that pipe but I'm just not 100% sure where its going to. I took some measurements and I think it's the pipe that feeds that toilet. I just don't know what to do at this point unfortunately :(
diyer2009
Jul 17, 2015, 01:23 PM
Hello again, well i took some more steps:
1. Removed toilet from 2nd floor bathroom.
2. opened up wall behind toilet.
3. opened up ceiling below where toilet is.
Here is a video showing what I'm looking at from below. I don't see any leak at the actual supply line feeding the toilet. It seems to me like the water might be coming from where the toilet meets the floor. I also shutoff the water main and opened all the drains. I still have a drip so I'm thinking water is pooled somewhere. Would love to get some more opinions please:
Link to video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5j6bm01hi5y09fo/20150717_145527.mp4?dl=0
Thanks all.
massplumber2008
Jul 17, 2015, 03:29 PM
Looked like 2 possible leaks to me, but it is more likely that the toilet was leaking at the toilet flange. Leave the toilet off overnight and see if all this dripping stops. If the dripping stops then it was the toilet connection to the flange that was the issue. If the dripping doesn't stop then the toilet supply pipe and shutoff will need to be replaced. Post back with the result, OK?
diyer2009
Jul 17, 2015, 03:45 PM
Looked like 2 possible leaks to me, but it is more likely that the toilet was leaking at the toilet flange. Leave the toilet off overnight and see if all this dripping stops. If the dripping stops then it was the toilet connection to the flange that was the issue. If the dripping doesn't stop then the toilet supply pipe and shutoff will need to be replaced. Post back with the result, OK?
I agree with you but I don't see anywhere that it would be coming from the supply line that feeds the toilet as all of that is dry above the finished floor. I think and hope it was from a leaking flange and maybe water has pooled into the subfloor and making its way to that spot where the supply line exits the subfloor. I guess I just have to wait and see if the dripping stops but who knows how long that will take?
Here are some pics of the existing flange: it looks like the flange was cutoff to meet up with the pipe below and then they stuck the adapter on the left in to make up the difference. I feel like this failed somehow...
476274762847629
massplumber2008
Jul 17, 2015, 07:46 PM
1) If water is shut of overnight and you wake up and there is still dripping present then the water pipe has a leak BELOW the finished floor, i.e. there is corrosion/leaking where the subfloor meets the pipe.
2) That secondary toilet piece is not needed... throw it away! Once you verify that the dripping has stopped (or repaired the leaking copper pipe) simply install the toilet using some 5/16" johnnie bolts and a wax gasket (with or without horn). It really should be that simple here if my guess is right!
Shut off the main water supply to the house overnight... see what happens. Update me as you know more, OK?
diyer2009
Jul 18, 2015, 06:42 AM
Hi again, I saw your reply this morning so I didn't shut off the water overnight but the leak has stopped. I haven't seen any drips for about the last 12 hours. So it seems my problem was a leaking flange? Would you agree? If so, I still think the flange that's there is not right. Without that adapter the bottom of the flange doesn't even make it to the drain pipe (it looks like it's been cutoff and sits slightly above it). If you look at the pics you can see the difference by looking at the color of the flange (yellowish) and color of the drain pipe (white-ish). That's what I tried to show in the pictures but I guess it's hard to see. What do you think? Thanks for the help!
Edit: some new info... Apparently I was wrong... The existing flange is fitting over the waste pipe and glued to it. The adapter piece from my photos were part of the original wax ring. I found that out this morning when I went to the plumbing supply store and the guy there showed me. So fast forward the quickest thing to try is a new wax ring and temporarily reset the toilet, reconnect and wait. I'll report back with results.
massplumber2008
Jul 18, 2015, 01:25 PM
I agree 100%!
diyer2009
Jul 18, 2015, 03:20 PM
Thing is what have I really proved? That's what's got me perplexed. If I put on another wax ring who's to say this all won't happen again? Should I be doing anything special?
massplumber2008
Jul 18, 2015, 09:02 PM
Nothing to be perplexed about... initial wax gasket was the wrong gasket. Install a new REINFORCED neoprene and wax gasket with a pair of 5/16" johnnie (closet) bolts and you should be good to go here!
Good luck
diyer2009
Jul 20, 2015, 07:03 AM
Nothing to be perplexed about... initial wax gasket was the wrong gasket. Install a new REINFORCED neoprene and wax gasket with a pair of 5/16" johnnie (closet) bolts and you should be good to go here!
Good luck
I bought one of these... Is this OK?
massplumber2008
Jul 20, 2015, 12:02 PM
That will definitely work, but a urethane or neoprene reinforced wax gasket will guarantee the best job overall! See image:
47631
diyer2009
Jul 21, 2015, 10:49 AM
That will definitely work, but a urethane or neoprene reinforced wax gasket will guarantee the best job overall! See image:
47631
Thanks, I'll see if I can get one of those. I have kind of a stupid question/situation... since I've opened up the wall behind the toilet, I'm not sure if I should repair the wall first, set the toilet and look for leaks below. Or set the toilet without repairing the wall and wait to see if I have a leak again? I haven't seen any leaks since I removed that toilet... but not feeling 100% confident that was my issue.
Thanks again and pardon my lack of confidence.
massplumber2008
Jul 21, 2015, 11:48 AM
I say patch the wall and then set the toilet... definitely was the toilet gasket or something else leaking at the toilet (like water dripping from the tank to bowl bolts), but not going to be an issue with the water pipe, so seal 'er up and set that toilet!
Good luck
diyer2009
Jul 21, 2015, 12:27 PM
I say patch the wall and then set the toilet... definitely was the toilet gasket or something else leaking at the toilet (like water dripping from the tank to bowl bolts), but not going to be an issue with the water pipe, so seal 'er up and set that toilet!
Good luck
Thanks Massp! I'll probably get to this in the next few days and report back.
massplumber2008
Jul 22, 2015, 03:18 PM
Keep me posted...
diyer2009
Jul 24, 2015, 01:09 PM
I say patch the wall and then set the toilet... definitely was the toilet gasket or something else leaking at the toilet (like water dripping from the tank to bowl bolts), but not going to be an issue with the water pipe, so seal 'er up and set that toilet!
Good luck
Hey there, well I've decided to try and breathe new life into this neglected bathroom so I'm going to replace a few things while I'm replacing the toilet. Would anyone know if/how I can remove that secondary outter piece? Or can I just get new faucet handles that go over that? I'm assuming the stem sits within that piece and that's what the handle screws into. I'm just not sure if I can just replace the handles or do I need to replace the stems too? I have no leaks or slow drips so I'm assuming the valves and stems are in good shape. Thanks!
ma0641
Jul 24, 2015, 05:01 PM
You can replace the knobs or the chrome base or both. That is an older Delta? Remove the knob and the chrome base pulls off. Might have to use some WD40 down the hole and wiggle a bit. I have had to saw the top and break them off but it can be done.
diyer2009
Jul 24, 2015, 05:22 PM
OK but can I replace just the knobs if that outer piece is still attached? It kind of looks like that piece came with the original knobs.
diyer2009
Jul 25, 2015, 04:50 AM
Anyone?
talaniman
Jul 25, 2015, 05:13 AM
Take the old knob with you to Home Depot, Loews or anywhere close that sells fixtures, and knobs and see how the newer ones compare with yours. What's the brand that you have?
diyer2009
Jul 25, 2015, 05:20 AM
Thx. I don't know the brand. There are no markings anywhere that I can see. I personally think that outer metal piece in the pic needs to come off too.
ma0641
Jul 25, 2015, 08:37 AM
That is what is called an 8" spread faucet. It has a brass faucet body with separate faucets. Each faucet piece has a base for the stem to screw in, a bonnet nut, a chrome escutcheon that threads over the body and holds it to the sink, a cover cap hides the threads and a handle/knob with a hold down screw and an index button-Hot or cold. You also have washers on this age of faucet-1970's. All of those parts are readily available at HD, Lowe's, Ace or other supply store.
diyer2009
Jul 25, 2015, 09:02 AM
Thanks for the quick response but what I'm really asking is how do I replace all the outside fittings? The escutcheon, the other metal piece and the knobs? I'm looking for a cosmetic update with the least amount of work.