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sjnowak
Jan 11, 2015, 07:22 PM
I have a 98 chevy 1500, brother was using it to plow snow today, said it kept stalling on him then would start back up but soon as tried to go somewhere would stall again, thought maybe gas line was froze up but was almost full but put in can of heet and can of sea foam anyway, let it set for a while ( few hours ) tried it and now it won't start at all. Any ideas or suggestions ? Thanks.

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 11, 2015, 07:40 PM
In many of these situations, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil packs solves the problem. I recommend changing these components every 125,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

sjnowak
Jan 12, 2015, 04:58 AM
Would it have a check engine light? he didn't say anything about that. Hopefully I can go look today.

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 12, 2015, 06:59 AM
Many times, the CEL won't be on. Also, ensure the battery is fully charged.

sjnowak
Jan 12, 2015, 11:10 AM
OK. He said it sounded funny when it cranks, not sure what he means by that. Hopefully I can go check it today when I'm done with work.

sjnowak
Jan 12, 2015, 04:58 PM
I made sure battery was charged. And he's right, it cranks over fine a few seconds then sound funny - slow almost like battery was dead then cranks good again, very odd, I wonder if something is wrong internally ? Very frustrated.

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 12, 2015, 05:30 PM
Sounds like there may be a problem with the starter motor. It may not be cranking the engine fast enough to start. Most auto parts stores will test them for free.

sjnowak
Jan 12, 2015, 07:58 PM
Don't think so, when it cranks well it should start. The starter wouldn't have caused it to stall several times first before it won't start now. could have starter problems now to I guess but think something else is original problem. If I can get it out of snow bank and take plow off maybe I could tow it home to my garage its 0 degrees and -20 wind chill too cold to work on it much . I hate to take it to shop but if its something major I dont want to do it, the older I get the less I like messing with it - LOL

sjnowak
Jan 12, 2015, 08:07 PM
Maybe timing chain broke or something, is that possible ?

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 12, 2015, 09:08 PM
Not likely that the timing chain broke. I would go back to my original hypothesis; i.e. a failed ICM.

MWRyland
Jan 13, 2015, 06:04 AM
Have you tried checking the fuel pump relay fuse? My truck did the same thing. Stalled in a drive through, pulled out the fuse put it back in started right up then it stalled again 15 miles down the road and it wouldn't start so my wife cranked the key while I giggled the fuse and it started right up. I have the same model and make truck but it's a 96

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 13, 2015, 06:09 AM
That's a great suggestion, if you don't hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition switch to ON. Try cleaning the contacts with abrasive cloth, if you have this condition.

sjnowak
Jan 13, 2015, 08:31 AM
Good idea but I hear the fuel pump come on, good thing to since I just put a pump in back in may.

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 13, 2015, 08:45 AM
Would you characterize your situation as a "crank, but won't start" situation? Keep in mind 90%+ of these situations are electrical related, not fuel.

sjnowak
Jan 13, 2015, 11:16 AM
Yes I guess at this point. But as originally stated first it stalled a few times but started right up again but stalled soon as you put it in gear and tried to move but started again. Then after adding the heet and sea foam letting it sit a few hours now crank and not start and goes to the slower funny sound crank then crank normal again, and I charged the battery. Best I can describe it right now I guess

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 13, 2015, 12:40 PM
Sounds like the starter motor is marginal, particularly in cold weather, and my best guess is the ICM has failed.

sjnowak
Jan 13, 2015, 06:25 PM
I talked to the guys at the shop I use, there first thought is maybe crankshaft position sensor. Could be I guess. My haynes manual says anytime you change that or disturb it , it could cause it to give a false reading and take it to the dealer ship to fix. Always some catch it seems like.

TxGreaseMonkey
Jan 13, 2015, 07:06 PM
Replacing the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) is also a good guess--it provides information to the PCM for when the ICM should fire. Installing a new CKP should be very straight-forward and not cause any problems requiring the dealership. I would replace it first and, if the problem persists, then focus on the ICM.

sjnowak
Jan 16, 2015, 06:20 PM
Well its running now. I towed it to the shop the other day as it was just too cold out to work on it and I couldn't push it in garage. That's the most expensive plugs, cap and rotor I ever paid for LOL. But I guess in the end its running so I am happy that way. Live and learn I guess.