I'm installing some surplus troffer lights in my basement; no suspended ceiling. The ends of the light housings have 3 knock-outs and I'm using FMC to connect the lights. For the most part I used the center knock-out which brings the wires into the cover over the ballast. In several places I need to use the end knock-out which, as you can in the picture will result in some of the wire exposed as it is routed in to the cable tray/light end. Is this acceptable? Am I missing something? Why add those knock-outs if not useable46901? As for code, I would think there should be no exposed wiring. The top has the opening for the usual whip assembly but that doesn't work in my application. Thanks.

There should be a cable cover so wires going through to the other side are covered.

Thanks for the reply. I kind of figured that too but since these were used in a commercial app. and wired from the top the covers were trashed. The only cover now is the one that covers the wires from the tube sockets. Do you know if the covers you referred to are available separately. Not to clear in the pic, but that fitting is right up against the tube socket and below the cover for the wires from the tube sockets. Might have to reconfigure... Thanks...

Sorry I can't help with sourcing the covers that are required here, but would suggest a Google search and/or call to a local electrical supply house may help. But I am curious about something - many (most?) commercial applications of lighting troffers like these are for use with 277V circuits, as opposed to 110V in residential. Are you sure that the ballasts are proper for your application?

"Why add those knock-outs if not useable". Keep in mind that the troffers are just one part of the fixture. There are literally dozens of different configurations of lighting that can be installed in a troffer. The additional knockouts are there for those other configurations. It's up to the installer to use the ones that fit the application and the installation.

Thanks for the replies.
ebaines-didn't think about the voltage till I got them home. These were in a small bank branch building and fortunately wired for 120V. Several ballasts were replaced with INtellVolt which operates on 120-277v.
Mbound-that makes sense, different designs & configurations possible. I'll just have to rethink my wiring plans :)

They make an angled BX connector, only comes up about 1 inch or even less.