I just installed a new tub spout / diverter and it is dripping from the bottom of the tub spout when I turn the water on.

I have a half inch pipe coming out of my wall that is approx 3/4 of inch in length and the tub spout screws on. The one I purchased is this one: DANCO Tub Spout-Back Diverter Model 80765X. The is a shower/bath tub with a GROHE single handle knob.

I used some CLR on a rag and a couple rubs with steel wool to prep the pipe before installation. I also filled the hole between the pipe and the tile surround with bathroom caulk. I used Teflon tape on the 3/4 in to 1/2 in black plastic adapter that came with the tub spout and again on the pipe. I tightened it by hand as tight as I could get it.

The drip only occurs when the water is running from the spout and for a little while after the water has been turned off. Any suggestions on troubleshooting the drip from the new tub spout?

I have a half inch pipe coming out of my wall that is approx 3/4 of inch in length and the tub spout screws on. This spout does not have threads. It's a slip on spout that you have twisted the "O" rings out of position. Remove the spout and position the "O" ring back in position and reinstall, Good luck, Tom

How many wraps of tape did you use.
Remove spout and nylon adapter. Wrap the copper threaded adapter on the pipe and the nylon adapter with at least 4 wraps of tape and reinstall.

If that does not seal, I would remove the spout and nylon adapter and coat each with pipe joint compound (pipe dope). In my opinion it seals better than Teflon tape.

It that doesn't seal you will have to remove the existing pipe coming out of the wall and replace it with a longer pipe because the spout is hitting the wall before it has screwed on to the fitting well enough to seal.

Harold,
When I Googled the spout it came up as a slip on spout. Sure sounds like a out of place "O" ring to me. Cheers. Tom

Hi Tom,
Came up as a screw on for me, with 1/2 to 3/4" adapter.

Plus,

my wall that is approx 3/4 of inch in length and the tub spout screws on.

Hi,

Thanks for your helpful suggestions.

I'm fairly positive I'm working with a threaded (screw on) tub spout as opposed to a slip on. The only washer I can see on the tub spout is connected to the diverter inside the spout. The installation instructions on the package list the instructions for a 1/2" threaded connection or a 3/4" threaded connection and say to wrap with thread tape and to "hand tighten new tub spout on to stub out nipple".

I tried reinstalling with at least 4 wraps of the teflon tape and was still getting a slow drip from the same place so I put on some work gloves and went for an additional turn by hand to make sure it was as tight as possible. I ended up snapping the plastic on the inside (and the drip continued!). I plan on buying another of these and trying again.

I did remeasure my pipe though and it turns out it only comes out of the wall (beyond the tile) about 3/8". I think this length might be my problem. Any recommendation on what distance I would need to ensure a proper fit with the tub spout? Also, this spout works with 3/4" pipe and 1/2" pipe; mine is 1/2 inch in diameter. Is there a short adapter/extender I could screw on that would be 3/4" in diameter and give me the additional length I need?

If I need to replace the pipe with a longer pipe is it time to call a plumber or is something a DIY-er can do? Would I need to remove tile around my tub?

Thanks.

I did remeasure my pipe though and it turns out it only comes out of the wall (beyond the tile) about 3/8"

If you mean that the end of the copper adapter (the thing on the end of the copper pipe) only extends 3/8" from the wall, then that is indeed the problem. If you mean that there is 3/8" of copper pipe the between the soldered joint of the adapter and the wall that should be enough room.

You may (or may not) be able to find a 1/2 to 3/4" threaded bushing in either copper of steel to replace the broken nylon adapter.

Measure the distance between the edge of the spout and the nylon material inside the spout and add 1/2". You will need at least that much room between the end of the copper adapter and the wall .

There is no fitting that will extend the length of copper pipe because the fitting itself would be more than you want to extend.

Replacing the pipe is is a fairly simple job if you have an access panel on the other side of the wall.

Thanks again for your help.

Unfortunately my situation took a turn for the worse. I decided you were right and that my next step was to replace the nipple with one that was a little bit longer. I bought some new supplies including an internal pipe wrench from Home Depot. While using it the end of the internal pipe wrench broke off inside of the nipple. The nipple did not even budge. If it helps to know I believe I'm working with a 1/2" galvanized steel pipe that extends beyond the wall about 3/8" and could be 1 1/2" in total length. The broken off piece of the tool is probably half inch deep from the opening of the pipe.

I still think replacing the nipple will fix my leaking problem, but I now can't do anything without replacing this stubborn. So I've called my plumber to assist me from here and he'll come by after the weekend. Let me know if you have any additional advice for next steps to try on my own. If not, I bet he'll get it fixed (at a hefty cost).

Show a pic.

I have been assuming that the pipe coming out of the wall is copper. You mus have some really old plumbing if the pipe is a galvanized pipe nipple. Haven't seen that in a long time.

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I believe my place was built around 1990 if that helps. Galvanized steel is my best guess as doesn't have the distinctive look of copper, brass or pvc. Let me know if you'd any more pics or have a question about what you're looking at.

46693


Show a pic.

I have been assuming that the pipe coming out of the wall is copper. You mus have some really old plumbing if the pipe is a galvanized pipe nipple. Haven't seen that in a long time.

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Make a post of at least two characters
Click on "Go Advance" below answer block,
Click on "Manage Attachments"
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Click upload

Yes, that is a iron (steel) nipple. I can see why the internal pipe tool broke. Only thing that is going to remove it is a pipe wrench. Problem is you can't get a pipe wrench on it.

Do you have access from the other side of the wall?

Delete the pictures or reduce them in size if you can still edit your last post. They are making the thread difficult.

Get a small pipe wrench, the smallest you can find. Get a piece of black pipe about 6" long that will fit over the handle of the pipe wrench. Put the pipe wrench on the pipe as close to the wall as possible. Tighten the pipe wrench as much as possible. Slip the 6" pipe on the handle and see if you can remove the nipple. You could also try a set of vice grip pliers. Whether you can remove the nipple all depends if it extends from the wall enough to get a pipe wrench on it.

I do not have access from the other side of the wall.

I don't have a pipe wrench. Closest I have is channel lock pliers. Do you suggest I get a pipe wrench for this job?

Also I'm not familiar with black pipe tape. I assume it is to help grip the threaded pipe. Is that something I could buy at Home Depot? (Is this the sort of black pipe tape you had in mind: 1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse silicon Tape?)

Is there a concern that I will shred the threads on the nipple and make it more difficult for my plumber to try an alternate solution if I can't get the nipple off? Do I need to worry about crushing the nipple or damaging the plumbing inside the wall?

Also, the pipe extends approximately 3/8 of inch beyond the wall.

Home depot also had an option similar to an internal pipe wrench but one end had a screw shape and the other end stuck out of the pipe for a wrench to turn it. It's this item: HDX Pipe Nipple Extractor Set-HDX167 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Pipe-Nipple-Extractor-Set-HDX167/204218641?N). Think this is of any value?

Not black pipe tape, black pipe. Pipe comes black and galvanized. Galvanized is corrosion resistant and is more expensive. You just want a short piece of pipe to use as a handle extension for the small pipe wrench. Yo will probably need the extension for leverage to unscrew the nipple.

I would try the nipple extractor first. Put it in the nipple and give it a couple whacks with your hammer. You want to get it wedged into the nipple as much as possible before you try to turn.Then try to unscrew the nipple. If you can get the extractor to bite into the inside of the nipple you may be able to get the nipple to unscrew.

Probably a better idea than the pipe wrench.

If you can get the nipple out, you will solder a male threaded adapter on the end of a copper pipe and screw that into the 90. Then you can use a slip on type spout.

Thought I would just share the conclusion to my problem.

The plumber ended up coming out. He was able to grab the portion of the nipple that was sticking out and remove it with a pipe wrench. In the process he bent/squeezed the threaded portion of the nipple and jostled the pipes around behind the wall. I didn't have the experience to know how much the connected pipes could take without creating another problem for myself so I'm glad I had a professional step in.

Also, he said the length of the nipple was correct but that the nipple had likely deteriorated and that would have been the cause of the drip. He also sold me a nicer solid brass tub spout that screwed on in the same way as the one I was planning on installing. I'm very happy with the job he did.

Congratulations. That fix should be good for about 15-20 years.