Within the first 2 years, the controllers stopped working. The pump was unplugged (as told by Sleep Number), and allowed to sit for a few hours. Plugged it in, heard the clicks, but nothing from the remotes. Purchased the SECOND pump for around $200.

Now, year seven, SAME problem. Unplugged the pump, let it sit, then plugged it back in. Clicks that show pump works, but nothing from the controllers. Just ordered our THIRD pump, luckily only $125 this time.

The first two pumps had wired controllers (our daughter had a wireless bed, so when ours arrived with wireless, we had to exchange it for a wired pump -- more money, but understandable). The LATEST purchase will be a wireless pump, as our daughter moved out & so has her bed. Does anyone know how to correct the wired controllers?

If every few years we have to buy a new pump, we may just have to call this a complete fail. The 20 year warranty is NOT spelled out, they expect PRORATED payment on parts. When we were sold that it had a 20 year warranty, it was expected they covered their products. Nope.

I would love to find a way to fix the controllers we have - as we will most likely NEED another pump in the next few years (sigh).

If the problem is your remote(s) then this is how I fixed mine. I saw this on another search and it worked beautifully. You can find it on YouTube.

The glue that holds the circuit board in the remote loses grip and therefore the connections are no longer working. This manifests itself in missing numbers, partially missing numbers, can't get the pressure high enough etc.

This procedure works for wired or wireless remotes. You need a thin small bladed flat screwdriver, a heat gun or hair dryer, a rubber eraser (a larger handheld one is easier than the end of a pencil) and something softer to put on the hard surface you will be working on. I used a hot pad holder on my cutting board.

Unplug your unit if it is wired. If wireless, take out the battery.

Using the screwdriver, carefully insert between the 2 halves of the body. There are little tabs every so often. At the back if it is wired there is a tab, if it is wireless the top slips into a lock on the bottom so you will just pull it forward to release. Inside you will have the circuit board and a flexible pad that hold the buttons you press. Take ot the circuit board, if it is wired, you don't have to remove the wires it all come out.

You will see the LCD screen on the circuit board. Using a low setting and keeping he heat moving you will heat this up on the edges and especially where the connectors are. I heated mine up until the screen turned black. This is normal and the right temperature, when it goes black start pressing down all the copper connections and then the entire lcd screen. When done, remove the heat and put it back together. The screen goes to normal color very fast. Try it out. Did that fix it? I had to do it twice on one of mine.

What you are doing is reheating the glue and making it useable again. When it lets and you press things back into place the glue holds it again like new.