I have a nordyne e2eh 012ha we bought a new 624 625a control board. I can fine 100 wire schematics for this but none with the colors. I can send a picture of what I have if anyone can help. The letters on the relay or control board terminals are
R c y u w/2 w/e g
Can anyone help? You just don't know how happy I would be. We've called ac guys around here but they are really wide open and the ones that could come wanted more than I had just to come look.

I just read the must read from hvac1000 so im adding the needed information model e2eh 012ha split system im trying to add photo but not sure if its uploading. Sorry I didnt read it first....Thanks

I'm not sure what the question is, but I will give it a shot. It looks like you have a electtric furnace and maybe a heat pump outside.

Red wire will go on R, Yellow to Y, White to W2, Green to G, Blue to C. If you have a orange wire it will go on O. W/E is for emergency heat.

Yes it's a Rheem outside and Nordyne split system heat/air inside with a 5 wire tstat. The wiring diagram I'm looking at that I thought was the right one leaves out the o and w2 so definitely white to W2? Thank you for answering, Ive had no luck getting help.

Yes it's a Rheem outside and Nordyne split system heat/air inside with a 5 wire tstat. The wiring diagram I'm looking at that I thought was the right one leaves out the o and w2 so definitely white to W2? Thank you for answering, Ive had no luck getting help.

Your welcome. With a Rheem heat pump you use B instead of O. If you could get me the model # on the outside unit, that would help. Are you replacing the board in the furnace?

The wires coming from the outside unit in are only red and white. Yes the picture of the board attached is the actual board we have. The tstat is hunter not sure if that matters or not?

How many wires are going to the outside unit?

2 are coming in red and white from outside. I'm just got here and I'm going to go take more pictures, I think that may help.

Well it won't let me upload the pics now red and white are coming in from outside
White green yellow red blue from the wall

If there are only two wires to the outside unit then it is not a heat pump. The red wire coming from outside will land on the Y on the new board. The white will land on C terminal.

Board------wire
R--------Red
C--------Blue from stat and White from outside
Y--------Yellow from stat and Red from outside
O------- No wire
W2------White
W/E-----No wire
G--------Green

Ok I'm going to try this a let you know how it turns out... Thank you so much.

Ok... its coming on now but really low air, or blower running slow.
Refrigerant evaporator model number mv734 48 QC
BTU 48000
R-22
350 PSI
Any suggestions?

Ok... its coming on now but really low air, or blower running slow.
Refrigerant evaporator model number mv734 48 QC
BTU 48000
R-22
350 PSI
Any suggestions?

Make sure the fan switch on the stat is set to "auto". If it's set to "on" the fan will run on low speed. Is the unit cooling? The 350 psi seems a little to high, unless it is 95*- 100* outside. Make sure you have a clean filter in the furnace.

The 350 psi is what's on the metal tag on top of the coil the fan is only working when set to on, by the swith inside the unit. Its not really cooling it is some but the coils are freezing up?


OK ITS LETTING ADD A LINK?
http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/Shutterbugps/nordynehelp_zpse0f10389.jpg

The 350 psi is what's on the metal tag on top of the coil the fan is only working when set to on, by the swith inside the unit. Its not really cooling it is some but the coils are freezing up?


OK ITS LETTING ADD A LINK?
http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/Shutterbugps/nordynehelp_zpse0f10389.jpg

Yea low airflow will cause it to freeze up. I will look at the wiring diagram again. I don't see a red wire in the pic of the stat ? I only see the red jumper. The 350psi is what it is rated at. I thought some one put gauges on the system.

Didn't change the stat at all, was working like that before the control board burnt, I looked closer and there isn't a red wire only thing red is the jumper?

my pic keeps disappearing..... added it again

http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/Shutterbugps/tstat_Fotor_Collage_zpsec5aa99c.jpg

It looks like the blue wire is landed on RH in the stat. If that's the case then you need to move the blue wire to R on the new board.

It looks like the blue wire is landed on RH in the stat. If that's the case then you need to move the blue wire to R on the new board.

So that would mean red to the c with the white? Because I think that's how I remember seeing the red and white together when it burnt.

Sorry should have mentioned that, R from stat will not be used. White from outside will stay on C.

Sorry should have mentioned that, R from stat will not be used. White from outside will stay on C.


Ok hooked up that way and fan is still only running very low , seems to be same?

Relay K1 or K2 could be bad. Might have been damaged when your board burned up.

Relay K1 or K2 could be bad. Might have been damaged when your board burned up.

Is there a way to test that. I am hoping it wasn't the motor.

I think your motor is OK. The best way to test them is to OHM out the coils. Do you have a voltmeter?

I think your motor is OK. The best way to test them is to OHM out the coils. Do you have a voltmeter?

Yes got one, would the k1 k2 be on the actual control board, looking at the diagram that's what it looks like.

I did do some more searching and found the original wire diagram for your unit. Turns out your furnace was a heat only unit. Probably the AC was added later, so they had to install the board. I will get back to you in a few hours.

Thank you again for all the help.

Thank you again for all the help.

Make sure the purple wire on the board is connected to the high terminal. Then set the stat to cool and the fan to auto. With your meter check C to G and C to Y. Should be 24V on both. If you have 24V on Y and 0 V on G, then it could be a stat problem. To test that, turn the power off to the furnace, remove stat to expose the wires. Remove the R, G and Y wires and twist them together. Turn the power back on. The blower should run on high speed. If it starts then the fan switch in the stat is bad.
Let me know.

OK purple wire was correct. Tested the terminals on the control board and it showed continuty, but didn't register any volts. So I took the wires off the stat and left the white hooked up, stat on auto and cool, turned the power back on and nothing... the blower still wouldn't come on at all. Unless I turn the switch in the inside unit on.

INSIDE UNIT INCLUDING BURNT BOARD
http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/Shutterbugps/ACINPICTURE_zps24451947.jpg


OUTSIDE UNIT
http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/Shutterbugps/ACOUIT_zpsc3f7063c.jpg

I'm a little confused, did you twist the blue, green and yellow wires together?

Yes, I took the tstat wires blue green and yellow and twisted them together, left the white hooked up on the tstat put it back on the wall, turned the power back on, and nothing. Was I supposed to do it on the wires coming out the wall by the ac that go to the terminal?

You did it right, except for putting the stat back on. Leave the stat off as you might short out the wires.

Ok I did it with the stat off first, didn't do anything so I thought maybe I was supposed to do it wioth it on and of course... Crickets.. lol

Crickets... Thats not good lol. OK, one more test, turn everything on and check R to C on the board, with your meter. Should have mentioned this sooner, make sure the door safety switch is pushed in when testing the board.

Crickets... Thats not good lol. OK, one more test, turn everything on and check R to C on the board, with your meter. Should have mentioned this sooner, make sure the door safety switch is pushed in when testing the board.

Where is the safety switch?

Where is the safety switch?

Ginger. Sometimes I forget that I am talking to a homeowner, not a AC tech, my bad. The diagram doesn't show a safety switch, but I bet there is one in there. Look around the edge of the blower compartment. The switch will probably be black. How it works is when you take the blower panel off the switch pops open and kills the power. Wrap it with electrical tape to hold it closed. Be sure and turn the power off to the furnace while doing this. Then turn the power back on.

Well I haven't gotten it fixed it yet, decided to replace the capacitor, and the motor. The guy at the place I bought the motor from wrote down how I should hook up the wires to the new motor compared to the old motor, Did that and nothing at all. Im wondering did he tell me wrong? Im going to post a picture of new wires verses old wires. http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m105/Ginger_Milligan_Pierce/WIRESCOLLAGENEW_zps6625816e.jpeg