I had a shut-off valve installed on the toilet so I don't have to run down in the cellar to shut off the main line. After the handyman installed it and we did a test flush, the tank refilled much more slowly that before. He said that because I have very rusty galvanized iron intake pipes, some rust could have broken off and partially clogged the float cup valve in the tank. A few more flushes and it seeemd like it was back to normal filling speed. It worked fine for a week, then today when I flushed, the water kept running in the tank. I took the top off the tank and jiggled the float cup valve and pressed down on the arm, but it didn't stop. I closed the shut-off valve and flushed until,the tank was almost empty, then turned on the water again. This time the water shut off at the proper time, but I noticed that the arm on the float cup valve didn't snap back like it usually does; it just lind of "eased" up. This float cup valve is only about a year and a half old. Should I get a new one, or did having the shut-off valve installed affect the float cup? I noticed that after the shut-off valve was installed, the intake hose is curled (see photo) there's now only 8 inches between the top of the shut-off and the bottom of the toilet tank. Could this affect anything?
45949

Which ball cock is yours? Back to you, Tom

The one on the left.

45951

Thanks. Have you set the float cup so it shuts off 1/2" under the white overflow tube? There is no seepage from the flapper, correct? Tom

It usually shuts off the water well below the overflow tube. I don't think there's any problem with the flapper. My flapper is not a rubber disc I see in most photos of toilet innards. It's like a plastic cone that fits over the flush valve.

I would sure take care of that kinked feed hose, shorten or straighten it for sure. In addition the 400A float valve(?) may be sticking, and can be cleaned by removing the entire float valve assyembly with the water off, and cleaned with a little soap and vinegar. A good idea would be to open the shut off valve with the line disconnected and flush into a bucket and observe what you get.

How to Clean a Fluidmaster 400 | eHow (http://www.ehow.com/how_8531824_clean-fluidmaster-400.html)

How to Troubleshoot a Fluidmaster | eHow (http://www.ehow.com/how_5717457_troubleshoot-fluidmaster.html)

I'm not sure how to straighten the feed hose - it the shortest one (12") and the distance from the top of the shut-off to the bottom of the tank is 8".

Shop around at Ace, Home Depot or Loews or any supply shop, and get a shorter hose, or a longer one, or a fitting for the shut off valve that changes the direction of the hose to get the kink out and allows free flow of the water. Most service guys are knowledgeable about such things and you may have options once the problem is explained to them.

Bet a shorter line is available. Take a look, ONLINE if you wish. I used tubing cut to fit instead of a flexible line.

Does the kink in the supply line cause any problems? Reset the float cup up to where the water level is 1/2" under the top of the white overflow tube. Let me know if it helps. Good luck, Tom

I agree do the simplest things first.

Clean the fill valve washer of sediment (see video below). Note here that the video shows the replacement of the washer, but you should only need to clean the washer, purge the valve of sediment and then replace the washer and be done with this:

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The flexible supply tube is not kinked and is not the problem, so just leave that alone...;)

Mark

I don't think the supply line is the problem. The water enters the tank just as quickly as it before the valve installation. The problem is in the float cup if the shut off valve.

Everyone agrees that the problem is at the "float cup" of the FILL VALVE. Watch the video I posted and see if you understand what needs to be done!

Mark