Last aug. had the distributor module fixed due to car stalling & then not starting. Upon picking-up my car the mechanic informed me that now the check engine light would always be on and at that time also asked if there was anything wrong w/the pollution control equipment and he said no there wasn't. Have to take emissions test. How can the light be disengaged, turned-off or whatever it takes to get it out. The state won't let you even take the test with the check engine light on. Called the mechanic a few days ago and he suggested I bring the car back to find out why the light is on (which I thought was kind of funny) since he had already told me the light would stay on. All help will be appreciated. Thx!

Tracking down why those lights are on and fixing the right problem on the first try is very difficult unless the car is hooked up to a computer with the software to find out what all the sensors are reading. Usually you can read codes easily by shorting a couple of contacts. Problem is, the code only tells you the sensor is reading out of range. The sensor may be bad, or something else may be wrong causing the problem.

When the check engine light comes on, the computer quits using the inputs of the sensors and falls back on an average value. The car then runs less efficiently and pollutes more, thus the refusal to check it. You may have noticed poorer preformance or gas mileage with the light on.

I wouldn't take it back to that mechanic. He may just start replacing sensors until he hits the right one, and then charge you for all the ones he replaced. $$$$$$$$$$ Find somebody with the right equipment to do the job right. They will see to it that your car will pass on the first try.

I don't know about Fords, but I know that when a Check Engine Light comes on in my Honda, and I take care of it, it will still remain on until I reset the ECU. It's usually done by disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and connecting it back after 10-15 seconds.

you could try ^^^^ his way, now I've seen with that a old buick had all the check engine lights on and not a damn thing wrong with it, all was hooked up, all the sensors were right and the computer reset, so instead of hell they snipped the wires, not saying do that but it might be your computer needs resetting, don't know much about fords because I generally don't like them much. :D

I don't know about Fords, but i know that when a Check Engine Light comes on in my Honda, and I take care of it, it will still remain on until i reset the ECU. It's usually done by disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and connecting it back after 10-15 seconds.Did disconnect battery this past sat. left it off for over 10 min. re-connected cable then drove car hoping light would go off-did not. Have until July 20th to either find a way to get the light out or get rid of the car. Thanks for your help.

you could try ^^^^ his way, now i've seen with that a old buick had all the check engine lights on and not a damn thing wrong with it, all was hooked up, all the sensors were right and the computer reset, so instead of hell they snipped the wires, not saying do that but it might be your computer needs resetting, dunno much about fords because i generally don't like em much. :DIf I knew where the wires were I'd snip them myself. Only ended up with this Found On The Road Dead, Fix Or Repair Daily, (Ford backwards) Driver Returned On Foot car because at the time had no other choice. I personally would never, ever own a ford car-they make great trucks but cars are another matter entirely. My next car will be a foreign one as I don't want to have to worry about something going wrong with an american car and having a recall after people get hurt or killed from driving cars with unsafe parts. I know foreign cars get recalled (sometimes) but no where near the rate of american cars.

Ever tried gm, less recalls then ford, had a recall for fords about serious life injuring stuff. If you want to you could take the dash front off and just snip the lights wire, might just be a bad sensor though that's telling it that, but of course I've seen a ford taurus riding along no problems at all but major back pressure in that 4 cylinder, enough it didn't blow the head cover gasket but yet made it leak like hell and back, well it caught on fire behind the injectors and almost went boom :D ford crap to me, chevy and gm very good, hell I see old cars like mine driving around all day long, even in the city I see them. And that's a lot of driving and stop and go driving, idling etc. your better off with no hondas, nissan and toyota are very good cars. My bro tried to blow his nissan up, no go it withstood it and it was well worn. Just fords seem to always have a problem. I'd sell it like that or sell it for parts, trust me for parts, other people need them :D oh and kia's pretty good to. No hondas though, something about their valves crashing into pistons not everyone knows, newer ones I'm not sure about that but their mowers are total crap, trust me my friend, melts the blocks down for alluminum or when he gets a pretty good freebie he uses it. But because it was free.

As a last resort, try to take off the gauge cluster, and remove the bulb that lights up the Check Engine part.

Yeah but most can be permanent bulbs that require snipping.

As a last resort, try to take off the gauge cluster, and remove the bulb that lights up the Check Engine part.

Removing the bulb would be easier to undo than snipping the wire. Neither will get you through inspection. They will turn on the key and see if the light comes on before the engine starts. You will then have to pay to fix the light as well the cause of the problem.

You are going to have to either fix it, or dump it. Selling it with the light removed or wire cut would be unethical. It may be illegal too.

That's why sell it as is. :D or for a parts car

no hondas though, something about their valves crashing into pistons not everyone knows

Don't bash the Honda man, pistons MIGHT hit the valves only if your timing belt snaps, which doesn't happen if you change it every 80k miles. Honda is in fact quite a durable car. I know my Civic survived being tortured by my brother for 4 years, and I mean torture like driving with no oil, driving with 2 years old mineral based oil, spark plugs being 4 years old, air filter being 6 years old, one timing belt for 145k miles, tires heavily underinflated and below 2000rpm ALL the time (5th gear at 37mph?). So don't bash the Honda.

No I'm not bashing it, I know they are good just that most people do not know to change the belt and do not know that the pistons might hit the valves when the belt snaps. Talk about torture :D 2.3liter 4 cyl. Olds well lets see, I did burnouts in it, ran it for years with the same oil, never changed the plugs, timing chain did snap, replaced it, did more stuff to it like not giving a damn about pot holes. The alternator, well I fried 2 from abusing it, all said and done I changed the oil and plugs and the fuel pump and chain and it still runs :D , but no no bashing the honda, no no no, its just the belts most don't think about.

ever tried gm, less recalls then ford, had a recall for fords about serious life injuring stuff. if you want to you could take the dash front off and just snip the lights wire, might just be a bad sensor though thats telling it that, but of course i've seen a ford taurus riding along no problems at all but major back pressure in that 4 cylinder, enough it didn't blow the head cover gasket but yet made it leak like hell and back, well it caught on fire behind the injectors and almost went boom :D ford crap to me, chevy and gm very good, hell i see old cars like mine driving around all day long, even in the city i see em. and thats alot of driving and stop and go driving, idling etc. your better off with no hondas, nissan and toyota are very good cars. my bro tried to blow his nissan up, no go it withstood it and it was well worn. just fords seem to always have a problem. i'd sell it like that or sell it for parts, trust me for parts, other people need em :D oh and kia's pretty good to. no hondas though, something about their valves crashing into pistons not everyone knows, newer ones i'm not sure about that but their mowers are total crap, trust me my friend, melts the blocks down for alluminum or when he gets a pretty good freebie he uses it. but because it was free.Would have to find someone to help take off the dash front. But if the wires are cut for the bulb would that show up during the emissions test or would everything read as normal? If anyone can answer this please do.

As a last resort, try to take off the gauge cluster, and remove the bulb that lights up the Check Engine part.Your idea might work the best because since there is nothing wrong w/the pollution control equipment then with the bulb out I could take the test and the car would then pass so I'd have more time until I have to get a new car this Oct.

As labman said, if they have to turn the car off and start it - they will see that the light doesn't get on when they turn the key, so they would suspect you taking the bulb out.

Either that or you could find a friendly garage to do it, because they will know that everything is fine just the bulb might be blown. :) most won't care.

either that or you could find a friendly garage to do it, because they will know that everything is fine just the bulb might be blown. :) most won't care.Would like to know where the bulb is for the check engine light located? Trying to find someone to remove the dashboard for me or if it's simple enough (with someone's help on here) maybe I can take it off myself) and then would need to know how to disable the bulb/light or whatever it is to get the 'check engine light' not to light up. So can you find out or tell me how to get at the bulb or light? Found info on the net that states if your car is older than 1996 (I have a 1991) then the emissions test is done with the dynaometer which spins the front wheels so won't have to worry about the check engine light cause they won't be checking that with an on board diagnostic tool which they do use on cars that are newer. All help in getting to this light will be highly appreciated. Thx!

Well like I said I don't like fords and hardly work on them so I don't know where exactly, but they are behind the dash, if its around the speedometer it's just easy to remove the front off and the take the gauges out and either take the light out or snip the wires off to it. Like I said most won't even care, they will look and see if its all fine and give you the bill, trust me, man that had the olds was running around with all the lights on, even the fasten belt one. If you don't want to take the dash or what you have to to get to it, a piece of black electrical tape will be the best way of covering it, that's the only other way to do it with out doing anything. But you should be able to take the front cover off to get to it. Without taking the dash off.

I have no idea about your Ford, but I did take out my whole gauge cluster (in my Honda Civic 91) yesterday. The situation in my case was that I just had to remove the gauge cluster cover that is held on by 4 bolts, 2 on top, and 2 below, to get to the cluster. From there I undid 4 more bolts to get the cluster free from the dash, removed the speedometer cable and 3 clips from behind and I had it separated. Then, you simply check the back of the cluster, and notice where the check engine light is, and take it out (it's all plug and play, no need to cut anything - at least not in a Civic).

After that, just put everything back the way it came out.

Removing the light isn't going to get you past inspection. The light is telling you something is wrong with your car. Until you find and fix it, you car will have poorer performance and lower gas mileage, as well as pollute more. Light or no light, when they test your car, whatever made the light come on, will make too much pollution and cause your car to fail. You may as well have a decently equipped shop fix it now, and enjoy a better running car in the mean time.

Most of the time it's a failed sensor. If you are going to get another car later on its not much to worry about. When a sensor goes bad it will automatically tell the computer something's wrong. Two choices, remove the light or find the problem. Problem to me sounds like a sensor is bad.

My 1991 Taurus V6 GL has gone 151K miles. It is fine and we took it on a 5 hr trip 3 days ago.
Recently the starter hesitiates when cranking and then picks up speed.When the engine starts in 2-3 secs, there is a growl/grating noise from the engine.
What could be the problem?

Could be the starter bearings, or maybe the solenoid. The noise could be from the starter failing to disengage. Is it worse when the engine is warm? That is a sign of the bearings. I have replaced the bearings in a starter, but just putting on a rebuilt starter is a lot less work.

Yes its definently the starter to me. I've seen on this old taurus hatchback where when the women started it it growled and screamed. Well for one thing the starter gear was torn to hell and the starter's bearing were shot and the starter was just a couple starts or more from freezing up solid. A already rebuilt starter will be the best choice since it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper then a new one and be just as good.

The starter problem is fixed.
Now to the compressor clutch that makes a racket. The racket disappers when the a/c is on.
I can see while the a/c is off, the outer face of the clutch moves slowly in the direction of rotation of the pulley.There are three bolts/rivets on its face that appear to be shaky causing part of the racket.
What is the downside of letting it make a racket. Will the clutch seize in time?

Just may need a new one. Worn out maybe and won't really freeze up unless you let it go like it is. Never heard of one freezing up yet.

1.
Every repair I have to do on this car has to be balanced by the current cost of the car ($500)
Somehow the a/c cools marginal on the hottest day.
So if I just let it go for now what happens?
How long till it freezes? Or will it just make a racket and a lot of noise and that's it?

2.
I presume I need the hose removal tool to remove the a/c compressor. I intend to have it evacuated and filled with gas professionally as I don't have the equipment. Any ideas?

3.
In 1998, a colleague of mine drove the car with no power steering (PS) fluid. Now every time the car turns the PS pump makes a loud whine (10 times the normal). How do you remove the fanbelt that drives the PS and the AC? I did not see an idler pulley or anyway to even adjust the tension of this belt.

4.
Also the book tells me that I need a special tool to remove the PS pulley first before the PS pump can be removed. Is that right? Why can't I remove the whole thing at the mounting?

Thanks for answering all these questions.
I am enjoying my work on this car.

Kris

The preamble to item 1 is that the AC Clutch makes a racket and I want to know if it might seize/freeze

Your best bet is go to a junk yard and pick up both for a very cheap price.

Can anyone give me the basics of how to change the fuel filter and the transmission oil on a 1998 Escort SW?
Thanks
Kris

Just to let everyone know that I did manage to get the check engine light on my 91' Taurus to disappear. A neighbor who does car repairs on the side managed to take off the dash board and when he went to reach for the bulb it fell through and is now somewhere inside the car. Oh and to all who said I'd be breaking the law by taking the bulb out - I DID PASS THE EMISSIONS TEST A FEW WEEKS AGO WITH FLYING COLORS! Just had to get rid of the light so I could take the test. Before others jump on someone as far as obeying the law they should put themselves in the other persons shoes and wonder what they'd do in the same situation with little or no money to spend to find out why the light stayed on in the first place. A car as old as the one I have is not worth sinking a ton of money into-just enough to keep it running well.

To tell you the truth, they can pass even though the light is on... its just annoying at the most... its not illegal to snip/remove the bulb, or is it illegal for them to be passed when the light is on... its just a idiot light when it comes down to it, most of the time its just a sensor that doesn't control anything nor will affect performance goes bad, and that light pops on, and it ends up costing somewhere around nothing to get a friend to remove the bulb, versus $$ lots of $$ to have the problem fixed... just to have it later on pop on again... don't care if its new or old, a sensor will go bad... and even though the wires and or bulb is gone... it can still be diagnosed if you see it/feel its losing performance.

to tell you the truth, they can pass even though the light is on.... its just annoying at the most.... its not illegal to snip/remove the bulb, or is it illegal for them to be passed when the light is on.... its just a idiot light when it comes down to it, most of the time its just a sensor that doesn't control anything nor will affect performance goes bad, and that light pops on, and it ends up costing somewhere around nothing to get a friend to remove the bulb, versus $$ lots of $$ to have the problem fixed... just to have it later on pop on again... don't care if its new or old, a sensor will go bad... and even though the wires and or bulb is gone.... it can still be diagnosed if you see it/feel its losing performance.Car was not losing performance but you know that they will not even let you take the test if that light is on-just tell you to go get it fixed since they only give you 30 days to do get it fixed and I didn't have $$$ to get rid of an idiot light as you so nicely put it.

Guess it depends on the state to state laws, not calling you an idiot, but that's the other name for them. Ask any old mechanic, that's what they call them as well.

I've had Fords, GM's, Chrysler, Jeeps, BMW, Toyota and Hondas. You will have problems with all of them to some extent. Look at all the Hondas that show up on this website. I'll stick to American cars even though most parts are made overseas. If you have to take an emission test, sniping wires and removing bulbs doesn't fix anything and you should still fail like labman said. I purchased a code reader off eBay <$50 and it works great, it has already paid for itself. Not sure about your mechanic but maybe you should re-evaluate him. Emission control problems sometimes indicate a bad gas cap or a vapor canister, maybe catalitic converter.