Hi folks, glad to be aboard!
I have a utility room (laundry, furnace, and water heater) it sits on a concrete slab. Actually the back end of the garage divided by a wall. We have your typical cast iron piped floor drain right in the middle of the room, which is the traffic pattern. In order to drain the furnace condensation, the pump pushes the water up the wall across the ceiling and down the opposite wall into the slop sink. All because the drain is in the middle of the room and you don't want to put any furnace or water heater drain tubes in the middle of the traffic pattern. I am raising the floor with floor joists and want to move the floor drain closer to the furnace or possibly wye over to the water heater for a second inlet.
Now, what is prevent me from slipping a donut into the floor drain pipe (there is no clean out plug - built in 1950) changing to PVC, connecting a street 90, a 4' length of 3" inch pipe (pitched an inch down to the original drain opening) and another 90 up through the new floor, add a screen and be done with it? Vent pipe would be 7 ft. away from the new location.

It is hard to paint a picture in words sometimes.

Thanks in advance
grandejohn

If you're going to tear up the slab any how why not simply cut a trench in the slab and run the condensate line over to the floor drain and use it as a trap primer Less labor, less material and a lot less hassle . Your thoughts? Tom

He won't be tearing the floor up, Tom...he'll be adding floor joists and building a floor on top of the concrete floor.

Grandejohn, the idea you present is frowned upon because the floor drain could back up and flood the floor under your new floor and you might not even know it until a very bad odor/mold/bacteria and a real mess developed and then it would be one hell of a mess and cost to fix, right? With that being said, if you can get a real good seal around the pipe and you are determined to proceed then go ahead...I'm sure it will work out fine for the most part.

Ideally, and in terms of proper code, you would, of course, tear up the floor and reroute the floor drain to the proper place and proper relation to the finished floor.

Back to you...

Mark

Hey Mark,
I wasn't too sure he could get a seal on a floor floor drain opening. I think a better way would be to open up the floor and remove the cast iron floor drain and convert to PVC. He can then extend along the slab to where he can install a new floor drain on the new floor. Sound like a plan? Cheers and stay warm, Tom

I couldn't agree more, Tom! You have a great night...I'll be in touch, soon!

He won't be tearing the floor up, Tom...he'll be adding floor joists and building a floor on top of the concrete floor.

Grandejohn, the idea you present is frowned upon because the floor drain could back up and flood the floor under your new floor and you might not even know it until a very bad odor/mold/bacteria and a real mess developed and then it would be one hell of a mess and cost to fix, right? With that being said, if you can get a real good seal around the pipe and you are determined to proceed then go ahead...I'm sure it will work out fine for the most part.

Ideally, and in terms of proper code, you would, of course, tear up the floor and reroute the floor drain to the proper place and proper relation to the finished floor.

Back to you...

Mark

Thank you all for your input. So the trap must be removed to be legal? This is an early 50's ranch and the floor drain is just like a shower drain with a trap and extension to top of floor with a removable thin cover. 3 1/2" I D. I'm sure I could get a seal, but is it code and will it pass inspection? I have a permit on the remodel.

Thanks again in advance

I'm sure I could get a seal, but is it code and will it pass inspection? I have a permit on the remodel.

If a permit has been pulled then the inspector will not allow what you are proposing no matter how good you seal the pipe into the floor drain. You'll need to relocate the drain and install a new floor drain (with Ptrap) and maybe even a TRAP primer, depending on your inspector. There are no shortcuts when permits get pulled!

Mark

If a permit has been pulled then the inspector will not allow what you are proposing no matter how good you seal the pipe into the floor drain. You'll need to relocate the drain and install a new floor drain (with Ptrap) and maybe even a TRAP primer, depending on your inspector. There are no shortcuts when permits get pulled!

Mark

Thanks to all for your input. Now tearing up the concrete to eliminate the original trap to move to a new location, I have a door to the garage that will be between the water heater and the furnace. How can I wye or tee to both sides for an ideal floor drainage system. Do I need another vent for both and a trap on each side?
Thanks in advance.

Hi John

I'm afraid that answer will be very specific to your town/city/state, so you'll need to ask your local inspector that question. Here, some states don't require vents and others require individual vents...further, some states will let you wet vent a floor drain and others won't...UGH! Like I said, ask the local inspector...he shouldn't mind helping on that detail!!

Mark

PS: All floor drains must be properly trapped.