Clicks at small solenoid connected to the bottom of carb bowl. New starter, solenoid, and battery.

Hi,
The click you hear from the anti-backfire solenoid on the carb says that the wiring harness is being powered. The fact that nothing happens in the start position would indicate that a safety switch is not working or the key switch has failed in that position.
Many Craftsman machines have the wiring schematic included in their manuals. You did not give the model number, so I have no way of verifying that yea or nay. With said model number, you can go to:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/
And enter it into the first box and pick Model... in the dropdown in the second and Search. That will yield the parts breakdown and it will have a place to tell you if the manual is on file. Clicking that will take you to a separate page with a Download lnk.
Peace,
Clarke
PS Some brands will put the ground circuit in the safety circuits which complicates things. Craftsman, Deere and Toro are the most common ones.

CRIGBY have book,engine model no. cv15s,type no. ps41508

Hi,
That is the engine info. The machine info is under the seat and should begin with 917. Since you have the book, does it include the parts breakdown at the end(of the English section?) The safety switches are on the brake, seat and PTO. The brake switch will be somewhere on the linkage and is usually connected to the seat switch so that the machine will crank with the seat unattended with the brake pressed or locked in Park(not a hard-and-fast rule.) The PTO is the blade engagement which must be in the disengaged or off position.
Peace,
Clarke

crigby thanks again. Its out of gear , blade off , brakes depressed . Seat disconnected 917.252580 ill check ferther

45588
Hi,
Took the furnished number and went to the manual; if you have the original, then you have the repair parts sections(machine and engine.) The manual online ends at the schematic; never seen that before, usually does not give any of that info. You have an electric PTO(clutch) which brings that switch into the equation(question.)
The solenoid for starting is always "hot" or has battery voltage. The ignition switch is powered from there through a 30A fuse, which should be good since you hear the "After Fire Solenoid" (their words.)
If you have access to a VOM(volt-ohm meter) or DVM(digital volt meter); same thing except one is a digital readout, you can check the circuits with it. With the switches(PTO and ignition) Off check the PTO switch for continuity between the C and G terminals(picture attached) and it should read 0 Ohms and the same for A and D. If it does then the PTO switch is fine for the start circuit. Locate the brake switch; it has a white and a black wire going to it and it should read 0 Ohms with the pedal depressed. That checks that one. Lastly you need to switch to the Volt scale and check the key switch between B and S for 12 Volts in the Start position. One of those tests should fail and point to the guilty switch.
I post the schematic which shows the wiring in all its glory. Notice that it also shows the switches, PTO and key, from the back sides with the terminals marked so that you can test the proper points. Since the start solenoid is always powered, the switches use the ground circuit to complete the circuits. A final check could be an Ohms check at the B terminal of the key switch and the white wire on the solenoid; it should be 0 Ohms as well.
Peace,
Clarke

Thanks man I got lucky installed stater switch works like a charm its great you help all of us thanks again t. J. Harrell I hope you get this