Lights flicker etc. on a few circuits. I traced it to the buss bar where the 200 amp main braker is bolted to the buss bars. I can hear it sizzle when its arcing up. It was installed in 2007 by a licensed electrician, 200 amp square D home line.

If I clean it is there a juice I can put on it? Where its bolted between the buzz bar and the breaker tab, is that a stud or a nut and bolt?

Yes, I know to turn the main breaker off. I got no answers or help yet. However, if I clean where its bolted and add the No Ox stuff, will that help?

Thanks... richard

I will assume you mean buss bar. Hard to imagine how it could just come loose. With main breaker off, just tighten down but remember, it is still hot above the main breaker.

Yes... I did that... it helped a day or so... but I think it needs cleaning because of the arking that was done... and some no ox stuff put on it... did you ever use the no ox stuff ?
Tks... richard

The main circuit breaker in your panel is arcing and you're guessing?
A real professional needs to look at this as this is how many home fires begin so it needs to be repaired or replaced, Now!
(antioxidant is not a cure)

No.. I am not guessing... when the lights are frickering... I can hear it sizzing... when I turn off the affected 15 amp breaker.. the sizze stops and starts again when turned on... however... re tighten helped a little.. it was installed in 2007... are you sure that cleaning and adding the no ox won't help ? So... what is a fix ? New whole 200 amp box with a new main ?
Or new bus bars and a new main ? Thanks... richard

What is a fix? Difficult to know from here... obviously this is beyond your experience so I recommend hiring a professional to look at the panel. Personally, I would be expecting a new panel.

What is a fix? Difficult to know from here... obviously this is beyond your experience so I recommend hiring a professional to look at the panel. Personally, I would be expecting a new panel.

A new panel? lol... a good license electrician installed this in 2007.. maybe it was not torqued proper. I know this could be serious but I also think it's a minor fix... waiting on the electrician to call me back.. he is working 60 miles away and very busy... iretighten the bolts.. seems to be OK now... however... because it was arcing can I unbolt... clean.. sand.. and add some no ox stuff.. re torque? yes I know to turn off the main breaker
Hank you... richard

I guess they are all pretty good but I favor the square d
Or the square d home line.. is the oringial smaller breaker square better ? I know they cost more... but are they better... tks... richard

For most regular applications a Square D homeline is fine. Value package and inexpensive breakers. Buss bars are aluminum but then, so is the service entrance cable. Have never seen one go "bad ".

IMO for a residential panel none is any better than the rest.
I am not a fan of SquareD, so I do not buy into the whole "SqD QO is top of the line" hype.
Many people hate GE panels. I actually really like the layout of them.

I could hear it sizzle a little no sparks or nothing... just a small sizzle... I think its OK now.. but not for sure how long... a lot easier to replace the 2 bus bars and a 200 amp main... then the whole box... are the hot bus bars available to buy ? Maybe buy a whole box and swap then out along with the new breaker ?
Thanks... richard

I have a sub 14 space panel in the garage.. no main.. just the hots go into the main lugs... can I use a 220 30 amp breaker at the top as a main ? With the hot wires feeding the 220 v 30 amp breaker?. I have 10--3 running to the garage
Ground is not boned to the common... I have a ground rod outside for the ground... tks

Unless your local power company allows you to pull the meter (Their equipment) you really should not attempt to fix this.

The meter must be pulled to kill the power to the panel, then you must tighten the screws according to the torque requirements set by the manufacturer of the panel.

If you try to do this on a live panel, you could end up dead or severely burned.

I suggest you get a licensed electrician for this work, it is really not a DIY project.

You can't do this... you will violate the assembly listing, void the warranty, etc.
I doubt square D would even sell you the parts...
Buy a new panel...

Thanks to a correction note I just received, I need to amend my original post.

The panelboard in question is governed by Article 408, not the Main Services Panelboard.

The overcurrent protection must be on the supply side of the panelboard. The six-switch configuration does not apply to this panelboard.

If the panelboard if fed by taps, the protection must be a main breaker within the panelboard. If the feeder is protected by breakers or fuses on the supply side, you should be fine, however it will still be prudent to put in a disconnect switch on the supply side of the garage's panelboard in case of an emergency.

200 amp homeline.panel.. in stalled in 2007.. I need to turn off.. unbolt the 200 amp main from the hot bus bars and clean.. I can't get then tight maybe some pitting from the lights flickering

Main question... what holds in the main... looks like one big screw in the middle... thank you

Even if you turn the panelboard off (by way of the main breaker) the feed lines to the panelboard and their mounting lugs will still be hot!

I'm hard pressed to understand why you are so intent on getting yourself injured!

I agree with Don here, there are no user serviceable parts here...
There is obviously something wrong and it sounds like you want to make guesses as to the solution and maybe get lucky...
Sorry, but again I will advise you to just replace this panel before something unhappy occurs...