I have a whirlpool washer model #GSL9365EQ2 and it will fill up with water and then stop on the rinse cycle. It will not spin or drain. I have changed out the lid switch and it is not that. What else can it be? Thank you!

You will have to test different parts with a meter before randomly changing parts which never works on modern appliances. I will never understand why people change parts without testing to find out if they are bad or not. It wastes time and money and they still have a broken machine. There are several possibilities like the water level switch or the timer and then there are solenoids that control other functions that if they fail your machine will not spin or drain. Have you checked the drain clean-out? It could be stopped up. Here are some books, but you will need to buy a digital volt/ohm meter to use them and diagnose your problem: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/Understanding%20automatic%20washer.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool%20Washers.zip
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/How%20to%20use%20Test%20Equipment%20Service%20Manu al.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/How%20to%20Diagnose%20and%20Fix%20Everything%20Ele ctronic.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool%20Washer%20L-61%205th%20Generation%20Solid%20State%20Electronic %20Control%20System%20Service%20Manual.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool_Duet%20Job%20Aid.pdf
When you check the solenoids with the meter you make sure the washer is unplugged and remove at least one wire from the solenoid and put meter on "Ohm" and you should read about 300 ohms on average. Also, always test from the terminals to ground on anything you test. If you get any reading to ground it is automatically bad no matter what other reading you get between the two terminals. On "Ohms" the meter sends a small electrical current through the leads and measures what gets through whatever you are testing. Never have the power on when testing on ohms. On the timer you will have to find the "common" terminal (common will feed the timer motor on one leg of power) and read from common to the terminal that should be hot when calling for it to spin or drain. If you do not read anything then you will know it is bad; if you do read power it is good. It's that simple, but it may energize more than one terminal. Good luck.