Dryer won't start when you hit the start button. I replaced thermistor, and thermal fuse. Getting error code E1. No humming noise... just one beep when the start button is pushed and then nothing happens. What can I start with replacing next? Model number is 110.82826102. I had repair man come look at it, he seems to think with ohm meter that there is no communication between start button and motor. Of coarse after I pay him for the service call and still sitting with a broken dryer, he informs me that he cannot fix front loaders because he doesn's have the computer software... then why waste ny time I would have called someone else. Thanks, stacey

See: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/Kenmore%20Dryer%20Manuals.zip
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool%2027%20inch%20Gas%20%26%20Electric%20Dry ers%20Service%20Manual.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/How%20to%20use%20Test%20Equipment%20Service%20Manu al.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8010163/How%20to%20Diagnose%20and%20Fix%20Everything%20Ele ctronic.pdf
It sounds like a simple switch or safety is open. You violated a cardinal rule of troubleshooting by replacing a fuse with first testing it. There is absolutely no reason to do this when meters are so cheap and easy to use. If you want to fix it you will have to learn to use a meter. The safeties are wired in series so that if any one of them blows then nothing will run or the heat strips will not come on. I would bet that the dryer needs cleaning, so you will have to totally tear it down and wash out each part well except the motor which you either blow out with air or vacuum out. There are contacts on the motor, too, that could be open. After checking all the safeties and switches you can jump out the timer to test it. You trace the power from the plug prongs through the push button first, then from the push button through timer and to the motor. The push button should be in parallel to the motor contacts so that when the motor gets up to speed it closes a centrifugal switch dropping out the start winding (and start capacitor, if it has one) and closing the contacts to keep it running and sending power to heat strips through the thermostat and control board (temp switch). With the ohm meter you should have no problem checking it out. With the power off you can also move the centrifugal switch which slides back and forth on shaft to hit the switch in the plastic box on end of motor with contacts. It's easy to see. You should also take note of the broken belt switch which is wired in series with the thermal fuse. Check on page 25 of the Whirlpool 27" gas and electric dryer manual for the schematic. Good luck and use the meter.