I have a Carrier central air unit, it's part number is - 58STA090 - - - 10116.
The model number is - 58STA090 - 16

The unit is making a "long drawing" sound, it's trying to start, but eventually shuts off . I checked the filter and it was really dirty, so I'm going to replace it, and in the mean time I shut the air off.. I live in Texas, so I have to get this fixed asap. Any help before I attempt to call a technician and waste a whole ton of money that I don't have?

Did you see if it runs without the filter in it? Until you can go to the store and buy another today?

With the filter out, look up at the coils and see how dirty or clogged they are.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgknU-9E5d4&feature=c4-overview&list=UUgXIJm4Aey_vdcMTtA5gx2w

Hey guys,

I decided to make a video to better explain my problem, and I had a question about the coils and how to access them.

Also, if left off long enough (say 30-45 minutes) if I turn it on, it will eventually kick the motor to full speed, it just takes about 20-30 seconds of slow turning to get there.

I really appreciate it

V/R

Harrison Edwards

Now THAT is a quality description...

I'm horrible at catching sarcasm over the net, sooo If that wasn't sarcastic, then... Thanks :D I really need to fix this, so I thought a video would be best!

That little fan is to provide enough of a flow on the exhaust as that is an ultra high efficiency unit and exhaust temps are low enough it wound draft on itself.

The other things you were focusing on are the burners on the furnace side of things...

The Evaporator coils will be on the TOP of the furnace roughly about 5 feet up from th floor where the ductwork starts.

You have to look for some access panel or something in that area. Some were installed by complete morons... like the one in my house... and I'd have to cut one into it. I'm serious if I ever met the guy that installed mine (before I bought my house) I'd plant my size 11 shoe in his butt.

First thing I would do... is reach around the side and see of the big squirrel cage fan.. (where that capacitor is mounted) spins freely and easily... I'm guessing its not going to and its hard to turn.

I'm horrible at catching sarcasm over the net, sooo If that wasn't sarcastic, then... Thanks :D I really need to fix this, so I thought a video would be best!

Not sarcasm... I was serious... that was a great explanation of a problem... when we hear so often "this one thing makes a funny noise and it don't work" as a description.

If we had an award for the best explanation for a problem I'd nominate you.

The fan in squirrel cage spins freely I just checked, It's really easy to turn

The fan in squirrel cage spins freely I just checked, It's really easy to turn

Bearings are good then...

Hoping Startmando has some ideas... I'm more of an automotive A/C guy and not as familiar with the hardware controls on these... and I know the Trane better as that's what I have.

I take it that's a good thing, lol

I'm going to go find this coil access panel real quick

I take it that's a good thing, lol

Not sure... I've got a gut feeling about a motor with some damaged windings from overheating... but not nearly familiar enough with that to have enough to back it up.

But If that's a stepper type motor it might be the control board instead. (with that cap I'm guessing its not)

Honestly don't know that a capacitor could cause that sort of thing or not... haven't seen the situation personally enough...

I'm a Degreed Electronic Engineer by trade... got licensed for Automotive A/C stuff for the Antique cars I restore as a hobby. Actually lots of overlap...


Hoping Stratmando or someone else can say more.

A/C Reference video - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTeIRiA_HWs&feature=share&list=UUgXIJm4Aey_vdcMTtA5gx2w)

Here's a video for referance on what I accomplished by what you guys told me to check

The condensation will be normal... thats the part that gets cold when its running... and like a cold beer... moisture in the air will condense. That's where the water that drips outside or into a drain comes from.

You at least HAVE an access panel... mine didn't.

DO you have a small mirror you can shine a light through one side and see out the other... as in left to right or right to left.

Looking for crud buildup that would be on the INSIDE of that.. as airflow if from the bottom of the unit upwards.

There are sprays that you can use to clean that... if there is a mat of crud.

But that's not the primary problem... but it will however restrict airflow if its matted up..

I think I have an inspection mirror. I'll go check the shop for one.

No noticeably bad build-up on the underside of the coils.

No noticeably bad build-up on the underside of the coils.

Good... one less thing to worry about.

Getting to the point we need someone with more specific experience than I've got to take you the rest of the way...

May have a bad capacitor, or motor?
Would try capacitor first.
Look for numbers like 15uF, 370 Volts on the capacitor, and get the replacement.
Good Luck.
Be sure power is off.

Tried the Cap - N/H, still have the same problem.. Most likely have a burnt up motor... I will try that when I get the cash.. Any good sites for these HVAC parts?

There are plenty... but I can't personally recommend any specific ones.

If you use a credit card you are pretty well covered. Perhaps Stratmando has a personal favorite or two.

Would taking the motor out and visibly verifying the part number be the best way to find the correct motor? Or is there an easier way to tell?

Would taking the motor out and visibly verifying the part number be the best way to find the correct motor? or is there an easier way to tell?

Without access to the service manuals for that furnace (something I don't have) that might be the only way.

You can clean out the crud while its apart too.

Yessir, that sounds like the plan.. I might post some sort of instructional video for future problems that other people have while I'm at it.

Maybe try Marcone or Grainger for the motor, may be better places?
HP, RPM, Voltage, and the rotation are most important.
Verify correct rotation when installed, may have to swap with 2 pairs of wires, may come with the capacitor, or the capacitors value may be on a diagram on the motor, good luck.
I am sure you verified It had 240 volts to the motor at the time of testing?

No I haven't checked the 240 volts, I was under the impression that only 115 was running to it. At what time and where should I check for 240? On the motor itself when it tries to kick on?

You want to verify voltage as close to the motor as you can, If you can follow the wires back to an easier place to test, that's OK.
Not testing anything between the motor and your voltage may still be suspect. If you have your voltage to the motor and it doesn't work, the motor IS bad. Verify 240 or 120 volts.

Is there any instruction you can give me for replacing the motor? Things I should be careful doing, inspecting stuff while I'm replacing, that you guys can give me?

Pictures and notes as to what goes where... and make sure the power is turned off to the breaker... confirm it with a meter. Too many places to ground yourself out which is dangerous with live power.

This is one of those times where a picture really is worth a thousand words.

Perhaps Stratmando has something more specific...

Me personally... I look for rthings like companenet and wires that have been overheated... even if they weren't hot enough to burn out... just pushing that limit over long periods will visually leave indications.

Sometimes the whole assembly will slide out after removing a couple of screws.
Be sure power is off as mentioned by smoothy