The pipe on the left in the picture not only looks bad, but will need to be moved back a bit after I shave down the stud to the right of it so I have an even surface to install backer board for a tile install. It is my understanding that the green stuff is flux leakage (these pipe was repaired a few years ago) and that should not be a concern as far as longevity (true?).

Now, I'm thinking I can either heat the thing up and try to bend it back (probably 1/2 - 3/4 in). Or cut that chunk out and replace it. Is bending possible? If the recommendation is to replace, are Sharkbite connector recommended? Those seem to be the easy way to go, especially with t replacement piece like this. I'm just not sure how reliable/long lasting the Sharkbite connectors are.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/Hook/496DCAD4-C5F8-4FF0-B692-278ED71AFEC2-26018-000043035C1438FE_zpse921d863.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Hook/media/496DCAD4-C5F8-4FF0-B692-278ED71AFEC2-26018-000043035C1438FE_zpse921d863.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v410/Hook/0C112709-CABF-4C16-9F67-3BA3E46E4674-26018-0000430336702212_zps060b9ae8.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Hook/media/0C112709-CABF-4C16-9F67-3BA3E46E4674-26018-0000430336702212_zps060b9ae8.jpg.html)

I would remove the mounting board and try to CAREFULLY push the pipe back. You could also shim out the other studs so the piping is flush. Sharkbites may not be approved for concealed spaces. I wouldn't take a chance if I had to rip out a tile wall. What is on the back side of the shower wall?

If you heat it enough to bend it, you will destroy the solder joints. If you try to bend it by just pushing on it, you will probably twist the valve such that it does not come through the wall at 90 degrees.

You could try. Nail a 2x2 to the face stud. Put a pipe wrench on the shower riser pipe above the valve. Put a 2x4 behind the 2 x2 and against the pipe. While holding the valve with the pipe wrench, push on the pipe with the 2x4. Do this with the water off, you never know what might happen.

You could also bend it with a 1/2" EMT bender that electricians use to bend EMT.

I would opt to take the pipe and valve out and replace the copper and valve. I would suggest using a temp/pressure balancing valve at this point. The valve that is in place is not temp/pressure balancing, it is an older moen. Replace with a newer style moen or brand of your choice. All new tub/shower valves have temp/pressure balance. The only reason I suggest this is because you are going to be doing a nice new tile surround and I would think you would want nice new plumbing behind it. I know I would. Don't get me wrong, the valve that is in place is a good valve, just that it isn't up to current standards. Most people only get one shot at this during their time in a home, so why not update the complete bath remodel. I think you will be happier with the result. I wish you the best of luck on your remod.

Take care.

Lee.

Thanks for the replies! I don't want to shim the studs out as then the backer board won't be level with the existing sheetrock. I think I will try bending it, but the idea of replacing the valve is intriguing.

Now, although I am an extreme DYIer, I've never worked with copper pipe before. As such I have a couple of probably simple questions.
1) When removing the existing pipe, would I just heat up the existing joints and pull them apart. If so, any tips on cleaning the pipe to ensure a good bond when re-sweating? Or is it best to make a fresh cut and new coupling?
2) Both of the pipes have 2 couplings. One about the height of the insulation on the right pipe, the other about 6" below the valve. Is that how it's done, or if I was to put new pipe in just run it from the lower coupling area up to the elbow going into the valve?
3) Is it best to use new pipe everywhere (including up to the shower head).
4) Should the hot water pipe be insulated all the way to the valve?

Thanks for the replies! I don't want to shim the studs out as then the backer board won't be level with the existing sheetrock. I think I will try bending it, but the idea of replacing the valve is intriguing.

Now, although I am an extreme DYIer, I've never worked with copper pipe before. As such I have a couple of probably simple questions.
1) When removing the existing pipe, would I just heat up the existing joints and pull them apart. If so, any tips on cleaning the pipe to ensure a good bond when re-sweating? Or is it best to make a fresh cut and new coupling?
2) Both of the pipes have 2 couplings. One about the height of the insulation on the right pipe, the other about 6" below the valve. Is that how it's done, or if I was to put new pipe in just run it from the lower coupling area up to the elbow going into the valve?
3) Is it best to use new pipe everywhere (including up to the shower head).
4) Should the hot water pipe be insulated all the way to the valve?
I agree with updating the shower valve like the expert said but if you just replace the bent copper replace it so it falls behind the 2by4 so it won't be in the way of the tile backer board.A wire brush or sand paper should do fine to clean the copper for soldering and you heat the fitting not the solder make sure that no water is in the line if not it will prevent the copper from heating and be sure to use cleaning flux.Be cautious soldering near to the studs use a fire protector or wet the studs after the soldering is done to be sure that they don't start a fire later.

I agree completely, frankie. There is no reason the copper that is there can't be reused. Heck, even the valve that is there is a good valve and could be reused, just put a new trim kit on it and its just like new. Cartidges are easily replaced in those valves also. I would only opt for the new valve for the temp/pressure balancing capabilities. It really is up to Austex to make this decision, and there really isn't a right or wrong one. Just what I would suggest to my customer as a plumber at this stage in the remodel.