92 honda civic vx hatchback 1.5 miles are roughly over 230k

Key in (II) position will prime fuel pump, CEL comes on and then turns off when fuel pump is done priming.
No chirp when key is put in the (I) position. But will chirp if I slowly turn it just before hitting the (II) position.
Key in the (III) position will not crank over the engine. The lights go out momentarily when I attempt to crank it, but come back when I return the key to the (II) position.
Checked:
Fuses, both under dash and under hood fuses that are connected to the PGM-FI relay are good. Under dash is constant ground and under hood is constant hot.
Pulled the PGM-FI relay and soldered dry spots on the circuit board. Could not find a way to test the Main relay because I don't know how to read wiring diagrams very well, and found wiring diagrams of older or new models on main relays.
Per the Haynes manual I have for my car I was checking for continuity by back probing all the wires. I found that my White wire from the starter switch is a constant hot even without the key in. There are two blue/white wires that come off the starter switch, and one is ground, and the other one has 11v to it. When I back probe it with a test light, the chirp starts without the key in the ignition.
Ive powered the main relay blue/white wire using a power probe and the engine cranked and started with the key in the (II) position.
Before I spend 280 dollars on a brand new ignition switch cylinder I wanted to ask if mine was bad. Based on the continuity chart on Haynes I would have to say yes, but I am a little hesitant because I have not 100% confirmed that my work done to the PGM-FI did anything.
Thank you for your time.

I also forget to mention that I have gone through 5 batteries in a span of 6 or 7 months. The car will die when I leave it over the weekend. Its my daily commuter and we take my wife's car whenever we go places. I replaced alternator and starter because I had a shop tell me that my starter was drawing 80mA. After I replaced it they rechecked and verified that it was not pulling anymore mA. However the battery will still slowly drain.

It sounds like you only need to replace the ignition switch ($55).

Ignition Switch Replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.

3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wiring harness.

4. Remove steering column covers.

5. Insert key and turn it to "0".

6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.

Thank you so much for your response.

I replaced the ignition key switch and tumbler all together just because I didn't want a tumbler that would get start in the (III) position. I hooked up the new switch and tumbler and gave it a crank with no luck. I still have constant hot to my white wire which is connected to my U/D fuse box #39.

Im going to try test the clutch switch and the starter cut off switch and see what I get.

Update:

Back probed the clutch switch, and didn't get Anything. Disconnected it and jumped the two pin connector and the car started right up. Pulled the clutch relay, and tested ohms and found it to be good. Connected back up and depressed plunger on clutch switch and it fired right up.

Now to find out if its being shorted a certain way, or the plunger not fully being depressed when clutch is engaged. Any tips ?

metaled05, The starter can not draw current with the solenoid not energized.
I would clamp on a DC Amprobe around a Battery cable and then disconnect fuses, connectors until the drain is gone, may have to pull a few relays and see when the load is gone.

Couple of things to also check for:
Dome/trunk lights
Alternator not charging
Bad Battery

You can also place a bulb/socket between 1 of your disconnected battery leads and the battery, when the light goes out, you have removed the load.

80ma is a little more than 1/12th of an amp.

Check the clutch pedal pad, which looks similar to a LifeSaver. They deteriorate, over time, and fall out on the floor mat. You may now just have a hole, which the pedal pad plugs into. If the clutch pedal pad is fine, the clutch switch may just need adjusting.