I have hot water coming from heater pressure relief valve but not from pipes??

Need more info. Than that Longch

Is this a new water heater?

Has any plumbing been done to the house or the water meter lately?

Do you have a pressure regulating valve (valve near meter.. see image)?

Tell us as much as you can...

Mark

Sorry... this is a new heater I installed
No other plumbing has been done

Need more info. than that Longch

Is this a new water heater?

Has any plumbing been done to the house or the water meter lately?

Do you have a pressure regulating valve (valve near meter..see image)?

Tell us as much as you can...

Marknew install, no other changes

Gas or electric?

Did you close any shutoffs besides the cold water inlet to the heater? If so, open those valves.

Otherwise, did you have an expansion tank associated with the old water heater? If so, it may have ruptured and may need to be replaced... seems very likely issue here!

Check everything... T&P valves ("relief valve") only go off as a result of excess temperature or pressure, so you need to control temperature (should NOT exceed 125F) and pressure... check for pressure regulating valve I showed... could have blown if you shut off the main instead of the water heater shutoff.

That's my first thoughts with the new info. You provided. Check for excess temp. AND that expansion tank...

Gas or electric?

Did you close any shutoffs besides the cold water inlet to the heater? If so, open those valves.

Otherwise, did you have an expansion tank associated with the old water heater? If so, it may have ruptured and may need to be replaced...seems very likely issue here!!

Check everything...T&P valves ("relief valve") only go off as a result of excess temperature or pressure, so you need to control temperature (should NOT exceed 125F) and pressure...check for pressure regulating valve I showed...could have blown if you shut off the main instead of the water heater shutoff.

That's my first thoughts with the new info. you provided. Check for excess temp. AND that expansion tank...
Electric
No expansion tank in use, wasn't with old one either
All valves re opened
I do have press reducer at main and I did use main as the shutoff, how do I know if its blown. I did add a cold shut off to new heater? I'm at a loss

I can't understand how I have hot water in tank but it won't come out of faucets? I only used t&p valve to see if its hot.

Excess temp. or excess pressure...

Excess pressure can be tested by purchasing a hose bib pressure gauge.. see image. Anything that exceeds 80 PSI should raise a flag that the pressure regulating valve is shot. 80 PSI in a water heater without an expansion tank probably exceeds the rating of the T&P valve at peak heating... maybe causing T&P valve to go off?

Otherwise, check the thermostat settings at the top and bottom thermostats (under access doors)... should NOT exceed 125F maximum.

If you could post a picture of your installation it would be VERY helpful!

I am still confused as to why you are not getting hot water at your faucets? All faucets? No water or no hot water at hot water supplies? Let me know more...

Excess temp. or excess pressure...

Excess pressure can be tested by purchasing a hose bib pressure gauge..see image. Anything that exceeds 80 PSI should raise a flag that the pressure regulating valve is shot. 80 PSI in a water heater without an expansion tank probably exceeds the rating of the T&P valve at peak heating...maybe causing T&P valve to go off?

Otherwise, check the thermostat settings at the top and bottom thermostats (under access doors)...should NOT exceed 125F maximum.

If you could post a picture of your installation it would be VERY helpful!

I am still confused as to why you are not getting hot water at your faucets? All faucets? No water or no hot water at hot water supplies? Let me know more...
The t&p valve isn't giving me a problem.
I don't have hot water at all hot water outlets.. Cold is working fine.

You said, "I have hot water coming from heater pressure relief valve".. That suggested an issue with the T&P valve? If this is not the issue and you are simply flipping the T&P valve open and get hot water BUT don't get hot water at your faucets I then suspect that you have an issue with the DIP TUBE at the cold water inlet to the water heater (check installation manual and youtube) OR you reversed hot and cold supplies... ;)

Mark

That's what I was thinking that it was dip tube, but its new? Is that possible?
And I have cold water going into heter on side marked "C" and hot out on H side

You said, "I have hot water coming from heater pressure relief valve"...? That suggested an issue with the T&P valve? If this is not the issue and you are simply flipping the T&P valve open and get hot water BUT don't get hot water at your faucets I then suspect that you have an issue with the DIP TUBE at the cold water inlet to the water heater (check installation manual and youtube) OR you reversed hot and cold supplies...;)

Mark
I do get about 2 seconds of warm water at faucets but that's it, then cold. Does that make sense it's the dip tube still?

It's where I would start... that or one of the mixing valves in the house (all single handle faucets/valves) is compromised as a result of the water main being shut down.

Check the dip tube first

Thanks!

Keep me posted (reread my last post as I updated it and am not sure you saw that)...

Keep me posted (reread my last post as I updated it and am not sure you saw that)...

If one of the mixing valves is compromised, would that affect all the faucets?

Yes, it could affect all faucets! Here, close off a hot water shutoff to every faucet in the house (including washing machine valve) and then test to see if there is hot water at a shower valve. If there is improvement open one shutoff at a time until the problem returns. When the problem returns you should know which faucet the issue is at.

Note that if no faucet shows up as the issue it could be one of the shower valves which usually can't be isolated, so that can confound things! In this case we usually just replace the mixing cartridge at the showe rvalves, BUT only after eliminating all other possibilities!

Water heater thermostats set below 130° provide the perfect environment for the growth of legionella, a dangerous bacteria that causes the deadly Legionnaire's disease. I would suggest that all domestic water heaters be set to maintain a minimum temperature of 130°, and if there is a risk of scalding, a thermostatic tempering valve should be installed in the domestic hot water piping...

Mike is actually correct on this... ;) Here, if you actually look at a water heater installation manual it will almost always show a tempering valve being installed. Manufacturers suggest heating water to 140F, sending that 140F water out directly to the dishwasher (DW manufacturers like this, too), and then temper the water to 125F maximum through the tempering valve for hot water delivery to the rest of the house. This is indeed an IDEAL installation for a home!

However, with that being said, most states do NOT require the tempering valve and most people don't want the added cost of piping and materials so you almost NEVER see this done! Most states just require that water to a home not exceed 125F maximum and it seems to work just fine all across the country, but yeah, at 120-125F it is, theoretically, supposed to be a breeding ground for the growth of legionella bacterium!

And now you know the rest of the story!!

Mark