I have a 2001 ford Escort and on the way to work this morning just a few miles from home the speedometer / odometer just quit working. What is the most likely cause and how do I fix it ? Thanks

Sjn

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check/replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

I don't see a fuse labeled for that and so far the fuses I checked are good. But now I see the cruse control doesn't work either and the check engine light is on, I think it is all related somehow. Need more help, where will I find a fuse or what ever controls speedometer and cruse control ?

. Fuse Testing

1. Multi-meter. Set multi-meter to DCV, turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), touch the black test lead to ground, and touch the red test lead, in turn, to each test point on the fuse. The meter should record 12+ volts. Voltage must be recorded at each test point on a fuse; otherwise, the fuse is bad.

An alternative method, which is very fast, is to set your multi-meter to audible ohms, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL (or you could blow the fuse in the multi-meter), and touch the red and black test leads to the test points on each fuse. When you hear the meter buzz, you know the fuse is good. This is my favorite method. If your meter doesn't have audible ohms, but it does have ohms, you can still use this method--just read the meter instead. The alternative methods perform a continuity test on the fuse. Just remember to de-energize the circuits, by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and record any radio activation codes first.

2. Test Light. Turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), connect alligator clip to vehicle ground, and touch the probe to each test point on the fuse. The test light must come on at each test point on a fuse; otherwise, the fuse is bad.

These methods allow you to accurately and quickly check all under hood and under-dash fuses in several minutes, even in dark, cramped locations. They eliminate the possibility of removing and replacing the fuse in the wrong slot. Should a fuse test bad, use the fuse puller, provided in the under dash fuse/relay box, to remove it.

Important Note: Due to corrosion, it's not uncommon for fuses to be good but not pass current, particularly in trucks. In this situation, clean the fuse's contacts with No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool, and lightly coat with dielectric grease. Ensure fuse boxes are "Military Ready" for any environment.

. Check for codes, by attaching a code reader to the 16-pin data link connector under the dash.

It's sounding more and more like a VSS problem.

Actually I'm thinking it's the speedometer sensor, I think it may be a common problem to the vehicle as my brother has a car like it and the same thing happened to him a year ago, why else would it take out the speedometer/odometer, cruse control, and give a check engine light all at once ?

You said that the check engine light is on. Why not find out what that code is? It may confirm your guess or it may point you toward another fault. Diagnosis will save money if you don't have to replace parts that aren't failed.

The VSS is the "speedometer sensor." I suspect that's what is throwing the code, which I would check with a code reader. When the VSS goes out on Fords, it's common for a host of codes being thrown. This should be a simple problem to solve. Afterwards, clear all codes.

OK, I finally had time to look at it, I got the code read and it said vehicle speed sensor. I replaced it, still nothing so thought maybe I need to clear the code, so I cleared it, the engine light went off but still no speedometer or cruse. I'm thinking now maybe there is a fuse somewhere but I don't know where it is. Any suggestions ?

OK, I finally had time to look at it, I got the code read and it said vehicle speed sensor. I replaced it, still nothing so thought maybe I need to clear the code, so I cleared it, the engine light went off but still no speedometer or cruse. I'm thinking now maybe there is a fuse somewhere but I don't know where it is. Any suggestions

I told you how to test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter before. Why didn't you do it? It only takes several minutes.

I did, I tested every fuse I could find under the dash and under the hood, all good, did it with test light light lit up pulled them out tested for continuity all good. Still nothing

You go to an Auto Parts store and get yourself a Haynes Repair manual for the car. Just about everything you need is in that book to trouble shoot the problem. You may show the sensor being bad if the electrical supply to it is bad. The cruise control will not work because it relies on the speed sensor circuit to constantly update itself. The book is ~ $25. It's worth it.

Yeah, I should have one. Or seek professional help - LOL thanks everyone

What was the actual code that was stored?

Faulty IPC?

The acual code said vehicle speed sensor, turn out to be a corroded ground wire by the battery.