Howdy all again, here's another question. If you read my previous post about Water Circulator Woes, we're going to move upstairs now.

My 20 gal electric water heater is pulling too much power. It's discoloring the electrical faceplate, and it actually burnt through it's power cable. But it still works and has not tripped a breaker for some reason. :confused:

Do I just need to replace the electrodes in it? They are probably 10 years old. The thermostat has been replaced, but that didn't do anything.

Thanks!

There is something damerously wrong with this heater and/or breaker. A 10 year old electric can be replaced for about $115, I'd replace rather than try to repair something this old. You will need to repair those 220 vac feed wires. If you know how to do this safely check your breaker to see if it working. The breaker should have popped unless the feed wires were under sized to start with.

More info:
It's actually a 110v... and replacing it completely might be a good idea. But it should be something simple/easy- not too many parts on that guy. The heating elements are only ~$10ish a piece.

Replacing the breaker is a great idea- it discolors the wall outlet, so something is not kosher.

I have a Kill-O-Watt and will measure the draw tonight- that'll tell me HOW much power it's pulling.

Definitely sounds like a faulty breaker.

Don't confuse the "wall outlet" with the breaker. The breaker is in your main electric panel. Where are you located, have not seen a 110 water heater before.

Sorry, was not clear there, the wall outlet is discolored, and it discolored/slightly melted my Kill-O-Watt meter, so my thought that was the breaker down in the box is bad, since it is not tripping.

Update- just checked the wattage/amps- 1660 watts & 14 amps. It's in spec for the circuit, but wow that's a lot of juice. Anyone know if this is in spec for a little 20 gallon 110v water heater?

Thanks folks!

You need an amp meter to tell you how much power it is using. You will need to know the amp rating of your element. Divide 120 volts into the amp rating of the element and that should you give you the amount you will read on the amp meter as you run your test. If the amperage reading is higher than what the math problem gave you then you may have a shorted element.

The water heater should have a plate on it giving the rated watts or maybe amps. No need for an ammeter too. Compare the Kilowatt reading to the name plate reading. If higher, replace the element.

One other test would be to measure the resistance between the terminal on the heating element and the shell of the water heater. Unless it is open, replace the element.

Small 5-10 gallon 120 volt heaters are common. I am not too surprised you have a 20 gallon one.