Hello,

I am going to be installing a new sewage ejector pump, and will tie into the main house 4" sewer line with a 4x4x2 Y connection. My question is, what is the best way to connect that. I know how to tie into it, but is it easy? It seems like the 4" line will not have too much give in it, and be tough to get the Y to fit. The location where I am tying in, there is another Y fitting like 5 feet up flow of this connection, so there is not much movement there, but downflow of the connection, the only thing restraining it is the "J" hooks to support it. A contractor came in and looked at it, and mentioned the possibility of cutting a larger section out than needed, installing the Y, installing a slip coupler, and then install the rest of the pvc as needed, and join that with the slip coupler.

Attached below is a photo of where the line is located. I will be coming from the top, between the joists, and dropping down on top of the 4" main line.

Any suggestions, is it easy to tie into a 4" line with a Y coupler due to the size and stiffness of the pipe?

Thanks,
Steve

Is he talking about a PVC slip fitting? An alternative is to use shielded metal clamps. Google "fernco. " to see examples. Either will work. In my opinion, a bigger question to ask is how are you planning to vent the ejector pit. They require a dedicated vent and you can't just tap onto the stack vent

With pvc, you should be able to find a spot with enough give to simply cut out just enough for the wye to fit and be done with it. You will know once you make the first cut if you have enough "give". Either way, all you should need is the 4x4x2 wye, primer and cement, and I would suggest having a 4" shielded clamp as mentioned above, just in case. I just would find it hard to believe you would need the shielded clamp from what I see of the pic. PVC has more give than you might think. If you make the cuts as far away as you can from any other fittings, you can even bend that stuff down enough to get a fitting in there. Make sure you have at least one other set of capable (strong) hands and you should be able to do this with just the wye. Good luck and please let us know how things work out.

PS. Im also curious on how you plan to vent the pit.

..

Easy...

Take Cast Iron pipe cutter. Cut EXACTLY the size of 4"x4"x2" "Y" + 1/2" extra. Insert metal sleeve from Fernco Shielded couplings - one on each end of pipe and slide it away from ends. Now insert the rubber part of the same Fernco coupling, one on each end - and roll them backward. Insert 4"x4"x 2" Cast Iron "Y", roll over the rubber couplings so the grab the newly inserted "Y", slide over the metal sleeve and tighten up.

Looking at your pic, it should be straight forward job, 10 minutes max.

Now, as Harold mentioned, let's talk about venting your new Sewer Ejector...

Back to you / Milo

Milo
I'm Lost, lost big time. Cast iron in a PVC pipe?

Easy....

Take Cast Iron pipe cutter. Cut EXACTLY the size of 4"x4"x2" "Y" + 1/2" extra. Insert metal sleeve from Fernco Shielded couplings - one on each end of pipe and slide it away from ends. Now insert the rubber part of the same Fernco coupling, one on each end - and roll them backward. Insert 4"x4"x 2" Cast Iron "Y", roll over the rubber couplings so the grab the newly inserted "Y", slide over the metal sleeve and tighten up.

Looking at your pic, it should be straight forward job, 10 minutes max.

Now, as Harold mentioned, let's talk about venting your new Sewer Ejector ...

Back to you / Milo

I don't get the cast iron on pvc either?

Why would I need two couplings, not just one? I figured cut the pipe, place the wye on one end of the cut, slide a coupling on, cut a new pvc pipe to fit from the other end of the wye, right up next to the cut line, and then slide the coupling over that joint, that is if I can't get the wye in by itself. That's where I was wondering if it would be difficult to do just the wye, since a 4" pvc pipe is stiffer than a 1" or 2" pipe. I figured it would not have as much give.

As for the vent, the vent is taken care of, I did not go into the whole story on what is going on. I already have an existing sewage ejector pit which has the rough in plumbing going to it for the basement bathroom, it was roughed in when house was built with the sewage pit. That pit has a 2" ejector and 2" vent. I am finishing the basement and will be putting in a wet bar, but to drain the wet bar I did not want to break up the concrete floor for 30+ feet to install a drain line and attach it to the existing sewage ejector pit. The wet bar is almost opposite side of the house from where the existing sewage pit is. I am going to buy an above ground ejector pit enclosed system, something along the lines like the saniflow here: Installation of pumps, grinders, and toilets for the home | SFA (http://www.saniflo.com/), have not done the shopping on which brand or model yet. So this system will only take on flow from the wet bar sink. I have actually been approved to use a 1.5" discharge line, since it will be only the wet bar sink, some models have 1.5" some have 2"

Per the plans for my permit, which has been approved, I will use the 2" vent stack from this new system, and run it and tie into the existing vent from the existing ejector pit. Per inspector, the 2" vent line can be up to 40' in length, and per the run I will do, it will be about 36' long.

With pvc, you should be able to find a spot with enough give to simply cut out just enough for the wye to fit and be done with it. You will know once you make the first cut if you have enough "give". Either way, all you should need is the 4x4x2 wye, primer and cement, and I would suggest having a 4" shielded clamp as mentioned above, just in case. I just would find it hard to believe you would need the shielded clamp from what I see of the pic. PVC has more give than you might think. If you make the cuts as far away as you can from any other fittings, you can even bend that stuff down enough to get a fitting in there. Make sure you have at least one other set of capable (strong) hands and you should be able to do this with just the wye. Good luck and please let us know how things work out.

PS. Im also curious on how you plan to vent the pit.

See previous post with regards to answer about vent

The 4" shield clamp you are talking about, is that basically this?

Fernco 4 in. x 4 in. Cast Iron, Plastic, Steel, Copper and Lead to the same, Flexible PVC Coupling-P1056-44 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100372298?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=fernco&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100372298#.UVOjbzeju0I)

No, looks like this. Same thing but has metal band around the rubber.

Cut the pipe and install the "Y". Odds are that you will have enough room to get back together. The far end of the pipe would have to be jammed up tight against the wall for you to not have the movement.

If you somehow don't have enough play, cut the pipe along the wall about a foot from where it drops down from the ceiling and goes horizontal. Remove a couple of hangers and swing the end of the pipe toward the duct work, that will give you plenty of room to get it in the "Y". Then reconnect the pipe along the wall with regular PVC coupling.

The far end of the pipe is jammed up against the concrete wall, and then upflow on the pipe, can't see from the picture, there are lines coming through floor above tying into the line, so there is not much give on that side. Kind of wondered if that would be best to remove some of the hangers, give myself more give.

I have a picture drawn up, and wanted to see if I need to install the coupling, if this is how it would be done, how do I insert pictures now? There is no attachment icon.

Click on the "Go Advanced" button below the "Answer this question" block. Scowl down and click on "Manage Attachments", browse for picture, open and then click on Upload.


but downflow of the connection, the only thing restraining it is the "J" hooks to support it.
OK then what does that mean?

Click on the "Go Advanced" button below the "Answer this question" block. Scowl down and click on "Manage Attachments", browse for picture, open and then click on Upload.


OK then what does that mean?

Looking at the original picture at the top of the picture, behind me, there are other wye connections coming into the line, that would be upflow from the wye I want to install. Downflow of where I want to install the new wye, it is only J hooks restraining the pipe, until you get all the way to the end, where it is basically up against the concrete foundation.

In the photo below, the top left option is what I want to do with just the wye, if for some reason I can't get it to fit, I don't want to do the second option on the top right, since it will not be a secure connection with barely having any pvc inside the end of the wye, the last option would be with the coupler, is this how it would look?

Thanks

No you are not going to do the top right.

How far from the far end (the end next to the block wall) of the pipe along the ceiling do you want to install the wye?

No you are not going to do the top right.

How far from the far end of the pipe along the ceiling do you want to install the wye?

It will be 25 feet +/- from the end of the pipe, where it butts against the concrete to where the new wye will go

Cut the pipe and take out enough for the wye. Install the wye on the up stream pipe. Cut the pipe along the wall and remove hangers. Have a helper. Lower the far end of the pipe. Prime and glue wye and pipe. Insert pipe in wye while helper raises pipe up toward the ceiling and beam.

Swing far end of pipe toward the duct work and install coupling rejoining horizontal pipe. Reinstall hangers.

Use board between the block wall and end of pipe to push pipe into wye just in case you have troubling gripping a 4" pipe to push it in.

You can do as Harold suggested... should work!

Another option would be to purchase a 4"x4"x2" street wye fitting (see image), install the hub end of the wye onto the pipe and then install the shielded clamp onto the other pipe and wye fitting end. Add a 1/4" to pipe length needed so that you can accommodate the 1/8" inner neoprene rib of the shielded clamp and allow for a slightly uneven cut... ;)

Mark