I am wiring/redoing my basement. I wired 2 three-way switches to work some overhead CFL can lights. Worked fine, but when I replaced one of the three-ways with a three way dimmable (which also dims my dimmable CFLs), it doesn't work. When the normal three way is in one position, the other operates the lights, but when the normal three way is in the other position, lights do not operate in either position on the dimmable three-way. What gives? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Wired incorrectly. The wires that are on the travelers of the regular 3-way must be on the travelers of the 3-way dimable.

Wired incorrectly. The wires that are on the travelers of the regular 3-way must be on the travelers of the 3-way dimable.


Thanks for your answer, but as far as I know, it dimable is wired just the way the regular switch was. In other words, in both cases the black, red and white wires were wired to the three terminals in the same pattern. I am completely mystified.
By the way, in checking the dimable three-way switch, there is no continuity between the top black screw and the two bottom screws in either switch position. Is this because of some electronics in there which make the switch dimable?
Phil

no continuity between the top black screw and the two bottom screws in either switch position
That cannot be correct. If it were, you would not have lights. Must have continuity between the common and at least one of the travelers or light would not work at all.

You must be mistaken about which terminal is common and black certainly should be common; or not doing continuity check properly; or defective switch. I vote for defective switch.

Make sure dimmer is turn all the way up when doing continuity check.

Tell me, is power being fed to the dimmer switch, the other 3-way or the light fixture. Tell me the number and kind of cables in each switch box.

Power comes in to the dimmable switch-box (14/2). The black is wire-nutted to the black wire of the 14/3 that runs to the common terminal on the other (normal ) three-way. The red and white wires of the 14/3 are connected to matching terminals on the two switches. A 14/2 connects the light between the common on the dimmable switch and the white incoming power cable.
So, to answer your question, there are two 14/2s and one 14/3 going into the dimmable switch box and just the 14/3 into the other switch box.
As I have noted before, the light works fine if both switches are normal three-ways, which tells me they are wired correctly, but if I change out the one for the fancy dimmable CFL-capable switch, no luck. Also, I get no continuity reading on the dimmable switch from common to either terminal, even though, as you pointed out, there had to be or there would be no light in any position.
Can there be a diode or some other electronics in the switch that makes it CFL-capable that is messing up the whole shebang?

A 14/2 connects the light between the common on the dimmable switch and the white incoming power cable.

That not logical.

Connect the black of the incoming 14/2 power cable to the common of the dimmer. Connect the white of the incoming 14/2 power cable to the white 14/2 going to light. Connect the black of the 14/2 going to light to black of 3-wire cable. Connect the red and white of the 3-wire cable to the traveler screws of dimmer.

At the other 3-way, connect the black to common and the red and white to travelers.

If I understand correctly you have the black of the incoming power cable connected to the black going to the light. Not sure what was happening before but it sounds like you were breaking the neutral. That's a no-no. Now it sounds like one combination of switch settings is breaking the neutral and the other combination is putting hot on the neutral.

Perhaps I am misunderstanding. Wire as described and post back.



Can there be a diode or some other electronics in the switch that makes it CFL-capable that is messing up the whole shebang?

No, but some dimmer controls will turn off when turned to lowest setting.

No, there is a misunderstanding of my wiring description. The method you described is the same as mine, except I ran the black input power wire to the normal 3-way first. It may not be the cleverest way of doing it, but I think it's OK. I'll try again:
The black of the incoming power cable is wire-nutted to the black of the 14/3 going to the normal switch and is connected to the common of the normal dimmer. The traveler screws of the two dimmers are connected with the red and white of the 14/3. The light is connected between the common on the dimmer switch and the incoming white.
I would like to e-mail you a diagram of what I have if that would be okay. That will make it clear. If I could have your e-mail address, I would do that. I appreciate all the time you are taking with my little problem.
>email address removed<

The light is connected between the common on the dimmer switch and the incoming white.

That is the part that is confusing me. If that means that the black to the light is connected to the common of the dimmer and the white is connected to the white of the incoming black, then things should work

You can post your drawing here. Click on "Go Advanced " button below the "Answer this Question Block". Scroll down and click on "Manage Attachments". Click on Browse to find picture. Click Open then click Upload. Picture should be in JPEG format.(there is a size limitation).

Be patient, we will get it sooner or later.

.