After the concrete has been removed from above the pipe and the PVC cut to accommodate the length of the wye how do I install the fitting ? Is there some type of slip fitting that is trustworthy?

You can use a repair "slip" fitting. It doesn't have a stop in the middle. Basically you cut the pipe, install the repair fitting WITHOUT glue and slide it up the pipe. Measure the pipe so you know where the middle of the slip fitting is located. Then you install the Y, a small stub out and slide the repair fitting down, working quickly with a lot of glue. If the Y is above grade, use a shielded rubber "Fernco" fitting.

I got to tell you that slip couplings are usually more trouble that they are worth in underground aplications... just too large to work with! Maybe you could use one, but not two and properly PRIME the couplings and pipe, too!

Instead, in my opinion, you would be better off purchasing two shielded band clamps and installing them by sliding the clamps over the cut pipe ends, folding the rubber sleeves back on themselves and installing the wye fitting with 4" pieces of pipe in the both ends of the wye fitting. Flip the rubbers back over, slide the clamps in place and tighten all up.

Be sure to deduct a 1/2" ((2) x 1/4" of rib in between each rubber sleeves) from the overall measure of the pipe piece you cut out from the main drain line...essential for this to work!

See images below

Mark

PS: Ignore the 12" as this was just a number I threw up... your wye fitting and two 4" pieces of pipe will be longer!

Even though I have used slip type fitting for small pipe repair, my choice would be as Mark has shown but not under concrete.

That's the way I do it Mark but instead of using a regular wye I would use a street wye (see image) Same difference but less work. And I would use shielded couplings above or below ground,Regards, Tom

Why not under Concrete, Brian? This is an accepted standard practice for a couple decades now... ;)

Shielded clamps are all we are using even when we install no-hub cast iron underground nowadays!

Guess we're a bit backward here in GA, Very uncommon to find shielded clamps buried in concrete, or at least that is what I was assuming would happen.

Not to be a smart-alec, but GA IPC 2006 states that mechancial joints with elastomeric seals (shielded clamps) are to be used on PVC ONLY in underground applications (unless transitioning from one material (EX.: copper) to a newer material (EX.: PVC) above ground... how's that for interesting?

In my area for residential applications, we are only allowed one transition clamp (ex.: PVC x cast iron clamp)... if we need 2 of these we MUST repipe all the old work over to NEW PVC up to and through the roof if we pulled a permit! UGH! Commercially, of course, we can use unlimited elastomeric mechanical joints.

Of interest, of course, is that in repair work almost everyone uses multiple clamps, but they are NOT supposed to according to most code books I have read up on!

Anyway, shielded clamps are code approved and really are the easiest to work with in underground applications!

Thanks for working through it with me, Brian!

Mark

HMMM. Well, they just built 42 homes in my neighborhood and 100% of them are solvent cemented DWV drain systems, never saw a shielded one in new construction. Maybe repair and I have used them for PVC/ Cast Iron connections. Oh well, another iota of knowledge.

No no... please don't get me wrong here! PVC should definitely be solvent welded above and below ground whenever possible. In repair work or when adding a branch drain line to an existing drain line like in this case, however, shielded clamps are the way they go underground, but above ground the slip coupling you mentioned earlier is the preferred method, for sure!

Thanks again!

Thanks guys ,you were all a big help. Now I can proceed with confidence. Tjd5068