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Firsthome
Feb 4, 2013, 10:07 AM
Ten or so years ago our city put up a much taller water tower resulting in many homes in my area having pipes burst. I,too,had several pin holes in just the 3/4" copper,so I replaced all 3/4". At that time I also bought a pressure valve and was told by the store employee that in the event of a burst pipe the valve would turn the water off. I did not get around to installing it,but now all of my 1/2" copper has to be replaced. I would like to install the Watts N35B now,but all I've read about them on the net talk about them being simply a way to control pressure,and that it will not shut down flow should a pipe burst. Would someone please explain just exactly what it does and where to install it. I've read here and there it should be installed beyond all valves that shut down all water altogether... others say to install it just beyond the meter. I also intend to install a pressure gauge before and after the small wholehouse filter I installed.
I am seriously considering purchasing a softener and would like to get opinions on brand names. My wife and I live alone so water usage is not real high. Thanks Bill

hkstroud
Feb 4, 2013, 08:54 PM
See this link about installing PRV (pressure regulating valve).
http://media.wattswater.com/1915088.pdf

The Watts N35B is a pressure regulating valve. It allows you to reduce the incoming water pressure. It does not stop water flow because of a leak or busted pipe. It has no sensor to detect such a phenomenon. I know no such valve that does. I wish there was such a device.

PRVs are normally installed on the incoming water line immediately after the main shut off valve. If you have a lawn irrigation system it would be installed after that connection.

There has been a lot of debate about what causes pin hole leaks in copper pipe. I have heard purification chemicals use by water treatment plants, defects in manufacturing, even turbulence in the flow caused by not reaming cuts in copper pipe. Don't think I have ever heard of excessive pressure being the cause.

massplumber2008
Feb 5, 2013, 07:29 PM
Hi Firsthome

As Hkstroud stated, a pressure regulating valve will NOT shut water supply off to the home (I can tell you of a few valves that WILL do this Harold...if you like? ).

A pressure regulating valve will reduce pressure to the home and it should be installed immediately past the water meter of your home (except as noted by Hkstroud). Here, the idea is to subject as little of the pipes in your home to excessive pressure as possible... hence the location as mentioned, OK?

Your pressure gauges should be installed not at the water filter, but on each side of the pressure regulating valve so you can regulate the pressure to a reasonable pressure (say 55-60 PSI)... pressure regulator is adjustable.

Can't talk to the water softener without knowing the hardness of the water in your area... get back to us on this.

Finally, as Hksroud mentioned, pinhole leaks are not usually found to be a result of excessive pressure, but in my experience, more so, a result of impurities in the manufacture of the pipes... rare, but is common in some areas that received bad batches of copper tubing...

Finally,

hkstroud
Feb 5, 2013, 09:32 PM
I can tell you of a few valves that WILL do this Harold... if you like? ).

If you mean one that will shut off the water if I have a busted pipe...
Tell me, Tell me.

Each time we go away I have fight with wife about turning off the water.

Firsthome
Feb 6, 2013, 01:26 AM
I checked the water pressure with a gauge that I screwed into the cold water hose that goes to the washer. 50lb.
As for the pinholes,all I can say is a number of homes in my neighborhood had similar problems when they brought the new tower online. That having been said,the 3/4 copper in my home was paper-thin when I removed it. I think the entire housing addition was mass-produced as cheaply as posible. Since moving here I've come across a lot of "shoddy" workmanship. Others have,too.

Firsthome
Feb 6, 2013, 01:37 AM
Hi Firsthome

Can't talk to the water softener without knowing the hardness of the water in your area....get back to us on this.

Finally,

Have not checked it since last summer. If I recall the hardness was about 350-375. Very hard. PH is roughly 8.25.

massplumber2008
Feb 6, 2013, 06:00 AM
Hi Harold

The leak-guardian is one system that will work for you. Here, this system has a shutoff valve that can be installed into your main water supply and gets shut off automatically when a RF transmitter detects water from any of a number of sensors you have placed in "hotspots" (water heaters, boilers, washing machines, etc.)

These are sold in 3/4" and 1" sizes. Check them out at:

http://www.petro-meter.com/pdfs/Leak-Guardian.pdf

Amazon.com: Petro-Meter 2500-100i Leak-Guardian Wireless Flood Prevention System: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Petro-Meter-2500-100i-Leak-Guardian-Wireless-Prevention/dp/B0053ZJHN8)

The leak-guardian system comes with one RF transmitter... additional transmitters are about $75.00.

I've installed a number of these systems and they have saved $10,000's of dollars of damage to finished basements and 1st and 2nd floors (from busted water pipes in 3rd floor bathrooms). Yup, the RF transmitter can send signals that far!

massplumber2008
Feb 6, 2013, 06:03 AM
Firsthome

50PSI is perfect... suspect you have pipes made from China. Here, back when they first started manufacturing these pipes they sent tons of the tubing over to us improperly spun and with mega impurities (created a lot of pinholes). Sounds like your complex got a batch, for sure!

Doesn't sound like you need a pressure regulator to me...

Firsthome
Feb 6, 2013, 08:38 AM
Firsthome

50PSI is perfect...suspect you have pipes made from China. Here, back when they first started manufacturing these pipes they sent tons of the tubing over to us improperly spun and with mega impurities (created a lot of pinholes). Sounds like your complex got a batch, for sure!!

Doesn't sound like you need a pressure regulator to me...

Thanks. I did not know about copper pipe grades,either,until I took on this task. Now all of the 1/2 inch,most of which at some point is behind either a wall or other obstacle,is grade "L". Compared to some new 1/2" I had on hand,the walls are clearly thicker.