Hotpoint maybe 12 yrs old.. f f h s 2 6 2 2 m s.. i think the door that lets the air flow from the frezzer to the cold side is staying closed... is that the operation ? Cold air flows from the frezzer side at the top to the cold side... thank you if you can help... richard

It could be the problem, unless it has a defrosting problem.

It could be the problem, unless it has a defrosting problem.

I think it's a defrost proublen... I used a hair dryer on it.. ok for 10 days or so.. its froze up again.. still cold on the cold side but not as it should be... any ideal on the most comon part to change ? Thanks... richard

There are three components you could change: The defrost timer, heater, and defrost terminator t-stat. The parts are inexpensive and wear out at about the same time. Look at these: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool%20Refrigerators.zip
The side by side Whirlpool is close to what you have. The defrost heater is under the coils in freezer with the terminator t-stat attached on one end and clipped to side of coils. The defrost timer is either under the unit near front bottom or next to thermostat inside. The defrost timer is generic, but there are several types (all look the same). Some heaters are in a glass tube and you can see when they go bad because the glass usually breaks and it's burned up inside. Defrost the unit well before working on it and make sure to clean the coils and inside unit well before starting it back up.

There are three components you could change: The defrost timer, heater, and defrost terminator t-stat. The parts are inexpensive and wear out at about the same time. Look at these: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Whirlpool%20Refrigerators.zip
The side by side Whirlpool is close to what you have. The defrost heater is under the coils in freezer with the terminator t-stat attached on one end and clipped to side of coils. The defrost timer is either under the unit near front bottom or next to thermostat inside. The defrost timer is generic, but there are several types (all look the same). Some heaters are in a glass tube and you can see when they go bad because the glass usually breaks and it's burned up inside. Defrost the unit well before working on it and make sure to clean the coils and inside unit well before starting it back up.

really nice for you to help... thank you... I think I will order
defrost thermostst $10... wr50x10068
thermostat sensor $10... wr55x10025
defrost heater and brack assamblly $50... wr51x10025
all from.. part select.com
do you think that will be OK..? Again... thank you... richard

You only need the WR50X10068-defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, and the defrost timer. The thermostat sensor is not something that goes in the defrost system. In fact, I have never heard of that except in electronic units, not yours. Without the timer you may have a problem, but you test it by rotating the screw clockwise until it clicks off the compressor and freezer fan. After it starts defrosting, the heater heats up and it will come back on after 20 minutes. If it does not, then the timer is bad, but you should replace it anyway because by this time the contacts should be worn out.

You only need the WR50X10068-defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, and the defrost timer. The thermostat sensor is not something that goes in the defrost system. In fact, I have never heard of that except in electronic units, not yours. Without the timer you may have a problem, but you test it by rotating the screw clockwise until it clicks off the compressor and freezer fan. After it starts defrosting, the heater heats up and it will come back on after 20 minutes. If it does not, then the timer is bad, but you should replace it anyway because by this time the contacts should be worn out.

I think the timers are about 35 to 40 dollars.. which is OK... but I looked at all the digrams for mine and I think the timer is built in to the main board... about 170.00... HSS251FMDWW.. I will keep you up dated... I know your busy if your still working... I am a retired welder... thank you very much for your time... richard...

If it's built in a circuit board leave it alone. These last almost forever because it's all electronic. The main things that kill refrigerators are: Dirty condenser coils & fan, defrost heater, and rarely, thermistors, if it's very new. The defrost heater always goes out after a few years, like a light bulb. Make sure to clean the coils well twice a year or so. Dirty coils will kill the compressor.

If it's built in a circuit board leave it alone. These last almost forever because it's all electronic. The main things that kill refrigerators are: Dirty condenser coils & fan, defrost heater, and rarely, thermistors, if it's very new. The defrost heater always goes out after a few years, like a light bulb. Make sure to clean the coils well twice a year or so. Dirty coils will kill the compressor.

Yes I do clean the compresser coils.. maybe every few yrs... tks

yes i do clean the compresser coils..maybe every few yrs....tks
My friend.. I changed my parts this morning.. the old defroster.. at the bottom looked burned on both ends.. dirty glass tube.. count see inside to see if it was broken... but I suspect it was bad... I'll know in a few days... because if I set the cold side to cold.. it will start to freez my liquid stuff that sits at the top... update in a few days my friend... thank you very much
... richard

Looks like the end burned off

You got the right thing. When it's bad it looks burned up, like I said. I hope you replaced the defrost t-stat that is attached to the heater. You see how the element is broken? A good one LOOKS good. Good work!