Every morning when I leave for school, I back my car out of the driveway. It gets to be about 3K rpms, then when I take my foot off the gas to put my car in 1st gear the rpms will stay at 3K rpms for at least a second.
Is this just a cold start issue, or does my car actually have some issues?
If you have any idea of what I can do, Please let me know.

The BLU wire from the Ignition Control Module (ICM), located inside the distributor, goes directly to the tachometer. I suspect the ICM is starting to have issues, which is why I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Okay, problem one, I have no idea what you're talking about lol.
I'm still learning the whole newer fuel injection cars.
But, can you link me to the recommended ICM I should buy for my car?
And, Possibly a link to how to install it?
Other than that, I highly appreciate the quick response.

The BLU wire from the Ignition Control Module (ICM), located inside the distributor, goes directly to the tachometer. I suspect the ICM is starting to have issues, which is why I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Plus my car is at almost 175,000 miles, so I do believe its time to replace it.

The BLU wire from the Ignition Control Module (ICM), located inside the distributor, goes directly to the tachometer. I suspect the ICM is starting to have issues, which is why I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Actually ,one more quick question.
How bad for the vehicle is it to drive with an ICM that is slowly going bad?
Cause I do not have the money as if right now to purchase an ICM, and probably won't for at least another month or two..

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) Replacement

Bench testing ICMs is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing this critical and problematic component every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the trigger signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the ground wire of the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.


Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.

With 175,000 miles on your Accord, you should also replace the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires.

Is your Accord a DX? What engine?

You are likely in the early stages of it failing. It could start to strand you or die on you going down the freeway--there's no way to tell.

Before replacing the ICM, try cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate/axle with a spray can of throttle body cleaner. Make sure it's just not the throttle plate temporarily sticking.

Is your Accord a DX? What engine?

You are likely in the early stages of it failing. It could start to strand you or die on you going down the freeway--there's no way to tell.

It's a 2001 Honda Accord EX 4 Cylinder.

AutoZone Part No. JP126, $111.99 will work. Shop for the best price and warranty you can find. We haven't had any problems with aftermarket ICMs at AMHD.

Before replacing the ICM, just make sure it's not a sticky gas pedal or throttle plate.

Before replacing the ICM, just make sure it's not a sticky gas pedal or throttle plate.

And you said to do that by cleaning the throttle body, with throttle body cleaner?
Is there any cleaner or spray I can use?
I don't believe I have throttle body cleaner, I have carb cleaner. Is this okay?

That should work. Mainly focus on the throttle plate axle. Ensure it's not gummed up and sticking. Also, spray the throttle shaft mechanism on the outside.

Remove the air filter cover and air intake tube for proper access to the throttle plate.

AutoZone Part No. JP126, $111.99 will work. Shop for the best price and warranty you can find. We haven't had any problems with aftermarket ICMs at AMHD.


I was curious if this part is a fix with a manual transmission.

Yes.