I am moving our bathroom from one end of the lower level (concrete slab) of our 4 level split to the end that is closer to the stairway to the levels. The lowest level is the basement. I will be able to tie into the existing 4” drain line and the 2” vent that runs up through the higher level to the roof. Our existing bathroom had a shower, toilet, and sink with a single 2” vent. Does it look like I have the waste plumbing designed correctly? Based on how the ceiling joists run and the HVAC runs, I was limited to having the vent in the corner location. The HVAC runs up the wall behind where the new sink is going to be. There is a narrow passageway between the HVAC and the wall that will serve as the perfect raceway for the vent and be able to easily tie into the existing vent.

In my crude drawings, I could not show the traps or the change in elevation that is required for the waste lines. The top drawing shows how I planned on running the plumbing. The distance between the 2” shower drain and the vent is 6’ 6”. The distance between the sink drain and the 4”x4”x2” wye is 5 feet. The distance between the toilet and the existing 4” waste line is 12 feet.

I wanted to make sure I had this planned out correctly before I started to bust up the concrete. This bathroom represents the only plumbing on this level.

The first image shows the overhead view of bathroom layout and the planned waste lines.

The second image shows the shows the side view and how the vent will tie into the sink and the shower. I was constrained by the HVAC that is a couple of feet off the floor.

I live in Ohio

the 2” vent that runs up through the higher level to the roof. That's the pipe that interests me. What connects both above this vent? This is how we run our baths in my area (see image).Back to you, Tom

I am not entirely sure what you are asking, but the 2" vent runs up through a wall in the upstairs and then up through the roof. No other venting attaches to this run. In the house there are 2 vent stacks that vent through the roof.

f. No other venting attaches to this run. I'm having a problem buying that a pipe was run from the basement out the roof without something draining in to it from above. Otherwise why install the pipe? Now, what's draining into this "vent" from above? Back to you, Tom

The area that I am working on is the bottom living area of a 4 level split. The basement is one level lower. The level I am working on had an existing bathroom at the far end of the house. The level directly above the area I am working has a full bath. I took pictures from the attic that shows 2 separate vents. The first picture shows the venting for the upstairs bathroom. The smaller vent is from the sinks that tie into the bigger vent. The second picture is from the same attic and shows the second vent, which was the vent for the bathroom that I am moving. When I go on the roof, there are 2 separate vents on opposite sides of the gable roof. Hope this helps?

On a side note, I planned to replace the 1 1/2 inch copper venting with 2" pvc.

As long as the vent is a dedicated vent (and you are sure there are no fictures connecting into it from above) then you are all set on the vent AS LONG AS IT IS 2" all the way to the roof...;)

In terms of your drawing, the 4"x4"x2" wye needs to connect within 8-10 feet according to most codes, so that 12' may exceed requirements (check your local codes to be sure). Also, note that the 4"x4"x4" wye needs to roll above the centerline of the toilet drain to be a vent, so roll this fitting so the branch of the wye fitting is above the center of the toilet drain line (can use a street 45 or a street 22.5 degree fitting to straighten out).

Look at my drawing along side your drawing below... see if it makes sense. The shower drain needs to come off the sink drain as shown.

I would have you install an end clean out and bring it to grade/finish floor instead of just turning the corner as you presented (see drawing). Most inspectors would agree...

Back to you...

Mark

First, thank you very much for all of your help. That vent is dedicated and nothing else runs into it. I’ll put that trap in as recommended. The 4"x4"x2" wye would be about 5 feet from the WC and about 7 feet to the 4” drain that I am tapping into. The 4"x4"x2" wye is about 5 feet from the sink. The shower is about 5 feet from sink drain on the run were it will be attached to the 4" wye is about 5 feet from the sink. The shower is about 5 feet from sink drain on the run were it will be attached to the 4"x2" wye.

I took a picture of where the 2” vent will run next to the HVAC. Can you confirm if this looks correct as it is a bit altered from your diagram? Also, do I need to put a clean out above where the sink drain ties into the vent? For the sink, is it OK to have the p-trap inside of the sink vanity?

On the trap for the 4” pipe, how far from the 4"x2"x4" wye should it be?
To clarify, what is the centerline of the toilet?

The only traps should be a PTRAP for the shower (under shower)and a PTRAP for the sink (inside the vanity)... toilet has an internal trap so no PTRAP needed for the toilet.

In terms of the 4"x4"x2" wye, it needs to roll above the centerline of the toilet drain line is all. Here, you can't take the fitting off at the centerline like a drain.. need to roll the wye above the centerline. That means you can roll it slightly above the centerline and straighten the wye fitting out using street 45 or street 22.5 degree fittings, or, if you have room you can roll the wye up over the top of the toilet drain and use a long sweep street 90 to take off and pick up the sink/shower.

A cleanout is required on the sink drain coming out of the ground. The cleanout MUST be accessible via an access panel/cover.

Otherwise, all looked good in your drawing!

Mark

Thanks for the help. Where should I put the cleanout on the sink drain?

Wherever the drain comes out of the floor and you can locate an access cover/plate. Plan for the cleanout to be above the bathroom baseboard but below the fitting that picks up the sink drain.

Thanks again for all your help. Another quick follow-up. When a attached the PVC to the cast iron pipe, which fitting is best to use? I am in the process of buying all the material and I came across two different couplings.

Heavy Duty Shielded No Hub Coupling or Flexible Coupling

The shielded on is only a litte over two inches deep and the flexible one is four inches deep.

Shop AMERICAN VALVE Heavy Duty Shielded No Hub Coupling at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_23472-34146-RNHHD100_0__?productId=1065519&Ntt=no+hub+couplings&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dno%2Bhub%2Bcouplings&facetInfo=)

4 in. x 4 in. Cast Iron, Plastic, Steel, Copper and Lead to the same, Flexible PVC Coupling-P1056-44 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100372298/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=flexible+coupling+4&storeId=10051)

Buy the heavy duty Cast iron x PVC shielded clamp... the flexible coupling is actually intended for UNDERGROUND USE... even though it is sold and used for quick repairs!

Purchase the shielded clamp... best for this case!

Mark

Thanks. Just got back from the store and I bought both and will definitely use the shielded clamp. Whenever I do a project I buy way more than I need and do returns later.

I was looking at the 4x4x2 wye that I just bought and was trying to figure out how far I need to roll it to be above the centerline of the toilet drain. Does the bottom of the inside of the 2" part of the wye have to be above the centerline or does the center of the inside of the of the 2" part of the wye have to be above the centerline.

On the hub portion of the 4x4x2 wye there are notches about every two inches and looks to mark the centerline pretty clearly (very clever of them to make it like this). It looks like I would have to place the 2" portion so that is it pointing straight up with its notch being at the highest point. I would then need to roll it to the left by one notch and then I would have perfect placement?

Post 6 and 8 dealt with that... reread a bit. The idea is to just roll the fitting so the center of the wye fitting breaks above the center line of the drain line (or higher) AND can be straightened out using a street 45 or street 22.5... ;)