Hello all,

I am trying to replace the old halogen spotlight bar light fitting in my kitchen with an new one.

Foolishly I didn't pay much attention to the wiring of the old one before I removed it, "3 wires = poss, neut and earth....." or so I thought.

However on more investigation it would appear that I have 1 constant live, 1 switched live, and (im guessing) neautral.

The old fitting only had 2 terminals for the connection, 2 of the wires were connected to 1 terminal and the othe was connected to the other on its own.

The new fitting has a lot of terminals grouped - poss, neut, earth, loop.

Any ideas on what wire goes where?

Also since disconnecting the old fitting the bathroom and utility room lights no longer work.

(all 3 of these wires come out of the ceiling seperatly and are all grey insulated solid copper wire.)

Any help gratefully received

Thank you

Edward

Can you provide a picture?
Do each of the 3 grey "wires" have 3 conductors?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8044/8100274747_d6244ddbbc_z.jpg

Ok - so bit more info for you guys

Done some investigation in the light of day.
As you can see the error in my post was that all the wires are grey - they are but with secondary insulation under-
So we have wires 1, 3 - both grey and wire 2 red (also has uninsulated wire running under outer grey insulation - hello earth!)

Wire 3 constant live - live when light switch is on or off
Wire 2 switched live - is only live when light switch is on
Wire 1 neutral - is never live with light switch on or off

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8184/8100467085_430bc53ec7_z.jpg

Wiring for new fitting

So what should I put where?

I think I can guess but...

Looks Dangerous, if in an attic and accessible I would redo safely.

As far as the problem, The switced leg would go to the hot on that fixture, and the other 2 MAY? Be neutrals.
Try tuning off the Bath and Utility lights and see if voltage goes away on one of the conductors, if so, the 2 were most likely connected as the neutral.
For a test, Identify the switched leg with yellow or other tape. Then turn off power, and connect the switched leg to the line and the remaining 2 to the neutral. Turn breaker back on. There is greater odds that it will work, as opposed to triping the beaker, or blowing the fuse. Be sure the fuse or Breaker will protect the wire, 15 Amp for #14, and 20 amp for #12.